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Thread: Seat installation

  1. #1
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    Default Seat installation

    The hardest part of owning my new Motortrike is putting the seat back on. I have tried pushing down on it,
    using a phillips screw driver to try and line up the holes and a few other methods. I spent three hours doing this the other day. Why can't a seat be made to install easier then this.

    My Harley seat installs with no trouble at all, but now I have the Honda trike.

    I will say it may become easier when I do it a few times but right now it's a bear. This trike is new to me.

    Any secret tips you would like to share would be appreciated. I did buy the tapered bolts already.

  2. #2
    2000+ Posts tfdeputydawg's Avatar
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    A lot of the problem seems to be caused by the isolation rubber inserts, at least for me that was the case.
    A good solution is the seat bolts with tapered ends. This allow a much easier seat install, at least for me!
    http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/sh...art/BBP-52-842
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  3. #3
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJohn View Post
    The hardest part of owning my new Motortrike is putting the seat back on. I have tried pushing down on it,
    using a phillips screw driver to try and line up the holes and a few other methods. I spent three hours doing this the other day. Why can't a seat be made to install easier then this.

    My Harley seat installs with no trouble at all, but now I have the Honda trike.

    I will say it may become easier when I do it a few times but right now it's a bear. This trike is new to me.

    Any secret tips you would like to share would be appreciated. I did buy the tapered bolts already.
    John the problem is pure and simple. No, I'm not being sarcastic.... Most installers do not pay attention to where they route all those cables and wires when they do the conversion. Honda seemed to leave just enough room for them to fit but they do have to go back where they came from. When I converted my 2015 Roadsmith I got a little sloppy with where I put the wire harnesses and had the same problem you are. My '06 Motor Trike was the same way so I expect it's a frequent mistake.

    It's a one time effort to just take your time and get all the wire bundles and harnesses tucked away and tied up so they do not interfere with the seat. The tapered bolts may make it a bit easier but if you've uses the screwdriver alignment trick and the rubber pucks are in place they probably won't help much.

    Three tricks I've learned over the years: First use silicone seal to glue the rubber pucks in place. They will still flex some and will not fall out. Second trick is to put just a dab of anticease compound on the first few threads of each OEM bold. You are screwing steel bolts into tapped aluminum threads. That is just begging for a ceased bolt. It also makes threading them in easier. The third trick is sort of related to #2. Start by reverse threading (counter clockwise) the bolt then when you feel the starter thread drop in start turning clockwise.

    I hope all that helped..
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

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    Default Seat Installation

    Okay, I got the seat on but it wasn't easy. Took me about 3 hours. I hope I never have to take it off again.

    Mr.John

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    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    A trick I use showed to me by a seat manufactuerer is to turn the rubber pucks backwards and reinsert them. They don't move around as much and getting them lined up is much easier. I still use a Phillips screwdriver and line each one up before trying bolt. Also, don't tighten any bolt until are started. I can reinstall my seat in about five minutes or less.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mhgoldwing View Post
    A trick I use showed to me by a seat manufactuerer is to turn the rubber pucks backwards and reinsert them. They don't move around as much and getting them lined up is much easier. I still use a Phillips screwdriver and line each one up before trying bolt. Also, don't tighten any bolt until are started. I can reinstall my seat in about five minutes or less.
    Thanks for the tip, I will try that if I ever take the seat off again which I know I will

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    I use zip ties. It compresses the rubber puck as well as holds the puck in place. Drop the seat on, cut one zip tie, start the first bolt, then just work your way around. 10 to 15 minutes and your done.

    Nuc

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    Quote Originally Posted by nucseal View Post
    I use zip ties. It compresses the rubber puck as well as holds the puck in place. Drop the seat on, cut one zip tie, start the first bolt, then just work your way around. 10 to 15 minutes and your done.

    Nuc
    Good tip Nuc

  9. #9
    2500+ Posts Ozarkryder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJohn View Post
    Thanks for the tip, I will try that if I ever take the seat off again which I know I will
    LOL- Yes, the seat will come off again. 99% of the procedures in the factory service manual begin: Step 1) Remove Seat
    Don - 2004 GL1800 Champion trike, 2018 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
    2 wheeler: 2013 Triumph Bonneville T100
    FORR Local 11, AMA, MRF, Mid-South MILE Committee

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    Default seat fit

    When I changed out the OEM seat to an Ultimate seat I had to use a dremmel tool to shave down the top of the body just a little bit. I was told that since these are made in a fiberglass mold that the top is not exactly the same on each one. Don't know if that might be your problem or not, but you might be able to see if the seat is resting on the top of the body with no clearance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBot View Post
    When I changed out the OEM seat to an Ultimate seat I had to use a dremmel tool to shave down the top of the body just a little bit. I was told that since these are made in a fiberglass mold that the top is not exactly the same on each one. Don't know if that might be your problem or not, but you might be able to see if the seat is resting on the top of the body with no clearance.

    Thanks all you guys for all the idea's and tips. This is a great forum to learn things.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJohn View Post
    Thanks all you guys for all the idea's and tips. This is a great forum to learn things.
    the simplest way to replace the seat is to take the passenger backrest off. 2 screws on the back top wall of the upper trunk with that out of the way the seat just slides on to the bike in a curve with the front of the seat engaging first and curving towards the back.

    Take the seat back off!!!

  13. #13
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjmitch View Post
    the simplest way to replace the seat is to take the passenger backrest off. 2 screws on the back top wall of the upper trunk with that out of the way the seat just slides on to the bike in a curve with the front of the seat engaging first and curving towards the back.

    Take the seat back off!!!


    It amazes me how many refuse to accept how much easier it is doing it that way!! I hadn't owned my '01 very long when someone gave me that valuable hint
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  14. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cjmitch View Post
    the simplest way to replace the seat is to take the passenger backrest off. 2 screws on the back top wall of the upper trunk with that out of the way the seat just slides on to the bike in a curve with the front of the seat engaging first and curving towards the back.

    Take the seat back off!!!
    Thanks, that's the first thing I did but it didn't help with my seat. It might get easier from now on. The seat is a custom one built by Diamond.

  15. #15
    2500+ Posts Ozarkryder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJohn View Post
    Thanks, that's the first thing I did but it didn't help with my seat. It might get easier from now on. The seat is a custom one built by Diamond.
    Our seat is a diamond, too. It's weird, sometimes the seat will go on and the bolts slip right in to the threads in the frame, then other times it will take me an hour or two, every swear word I know in both English and Finnish, a break to de-frustrate, (is that a word?) and I'll eventually get it on.
    Most of the time it seems it is just mocking me, as it will usually go on pretty easily after a break, but only after the aggravation level is maxed out.
    Don - 2004 GL1800 Champion trike, 2018 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
    2 wheeler: 2013 Triumph Bonneville T100
    FORR Local 11, AMA, MRF, Mid-South MILE Committee

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ozarkryder View Post
    Our seat is a diamond, too. It's weird, sometimes the seat will go on and the bolts slip right in to the threads in the frame, then other times it will take me an hour or two, every swear word I know in both English and Finnish, a break to de-frustrate, (is that a word?) and I'll eventually get it on.
    Most of the time it seems it is just mocking me, as it will usually go on pretty easily after a break, but only after the aggravation level is maxed out.
    That happens to me also, I get mad and nothing does right and then after a break it does. This time however I took my time and tried everything I could and it went on but it did take a couple of hours. Next time I will try some of the suggestions made from this forum.

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    Default Easy seat install

    Remove seat. Screw size 1/4 x 20 x 1/2

    place screw into seat hole, while seat is off the bike .

    Purchase snap ring install snap ring on screw to permanently attach screw to seat.

    now all you need to do is purchase a long handle Phillips head.

    Now rear seat removal and install in 5 mins, no loose screws

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