1987 Electra Glide Shade Tree Build

[dmillsr3]

dmillsr3, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, sorry

Pcompe: that's the first time it has happened to me.

[dmillsr3]

Quick update:<br />
I couldn't help myself. I bolted up exhaust, replaced transmission fluid, and replaced primary case fluid. Charged battery and cranked it up. Started with no problem at all after having been down since July. This build is far from finished, but I took it for a short run of about a mile. <br />
Rake kit is not installed yet, but there was no head wobble until about 20 mph and that was very very slight. If I had not been looking for or expecting some wobble, I might not have felt it. The wobble went away quickly as I accelerated.<br />
At this low speed (not more than 30 mph) the steering felt good.<br />
Also, the reverse gear was flawless.<img src="images/smilies/smileygarden_de_banana7.gif" border="0" alt="" title="pepper" class="inlineimg" /><br />
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Now I just need to install the rake kit and install the body (when it finally gets here (promised to ship this week)).

[pcombe]

I spoke to you in a private message about the bolts backing out of the upper motor mounts where your stiffener bolts on and brace bolts to the heads after I triked my scooter. <br />
These are the bolts I was speaking of.<br />
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I finally pulled these mounting bolts, drilled a hole through the heads and wire tied them with a twist pattern, bolt to bolt in an S pattern so if one were to loosen it pulls the other tighter and vise versa. That cured the problem where no amount of lock tight or lock washers would hold them.<br />
<br />
As old as your bike is I recommend replacing the lower front motor mount right off the bat because it damn sure will break with the extra twisting torque of a trike.<br />
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A bike was never intended to be a trike so there will be a hell of a lot of side twist on your motor mounts on take off etc.<br />
Have you ever heard of some one saying their horn honks whenever they turn or take off?<br />
The motor mounts are the reason!<br />
<br />
Harleys have so much torque they can twist that motor right out of the frame busting everything in the process.<br />
At that point I recommend high explosives for the cure. <img src="images/smilies/grin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="big grin" class="inlineimg" /><br />
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<a href="http://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=41270&amp;d=1481606130 " title="Name: e-4-unfinishedweld_zps9f63a3e5.jpg
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The champion upper motor mount comes with metal stiffeners to go right into your current mounts and has a heavy duty stiffener. Newer bikes don't need one but yours will. <br />
The kit comes with an epoxy to attach the heavier plates to your frame, I welded mine to the frame. ( watch your heat, enough is enough and too much is to much)<br />
About a 100 amps on farmer rod, bout the same on wire feed? I don't remember for sure.<br />
( keep your ground wire as close to where you are working as possible making sure you wont strike an arc through any bearings.<br />
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You can see an unfinished weld on the mounting plates<br />
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You can see the end of my exhaust in the picture, I eventually cut off the flare, ( they are a pain in the butt compared to the newer style Harley pipes.) welded a joint and used regular car muffler clamps. I like it better than Harleys original flare/ clamp system.<br />
Champions Bassani Mufflers come with S pipes to clear the axle, I had to shorten the pipes a bit anyway.<br />
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Positioning and welding body mount for rear body framing after mock fit up.<br />
You can see the saddle bag mount on the lower right side of picture, I cut it off because it will make setting he body down a real pain and scratch hell out of the paint.