I just bought a new Work and Play toy hauler and I'm looking for ideals on how everyone is securing their trikes. I want something simple, quick and removable.
I just bought a new Work and Play toy hauler and I'm looking for ideals on how everyone is securing their trikes. I want something simple, quick and removable.
I have a toy hauler. There is a flip up, level with the floor chock. There are 6 floor level tie down rings. Jim
US Army Retired, Command Sergeant Major
No longer riding, memories, memories
Secure the front wheel in a chock.
Run a strap through the wheel and around the chock.
Run a strap from each of the front crash bars to a forward tie down, pulling the wheel into the chock.
I have a rear bumper. I criss-cross two straps from the bumper braces to the rear tie downs. Criss-crossing the straps prevents any lateral movement of the rear end.
In my enclosed, I have very little room on the sides, so limiting sideways movement is a must.
I have pulled my W&P right at 5,000 miles this past year with my trike in it. Do not use a motorcycle wheel chock for it. I simply use 4 wedge type wheel chocks (one in front of and one in pack of each rear wheel)and tie the axle down by running a strap forward and rearward on each side. This is how Harley moves them. I always stop within 75 miles to check the straps and retighten if necessary.
So what model W&P? I have a 25CB.
BKMNI
100,000+ miles of three wheel fun and counting!
2015 Harley FLRT
2018 Can-Am F3 Limited
I have trailered my GL1800 trike numerous times the past couple years including a 3800 mile run from North Dakota to Texas and back last winter. The garage has six D-ring loops in the floor, two forward, two mid and 2 aft. I tied from the crash bars both forward and back to the middle tie downs and tied from the safety chain loops on the rear hitch to the rear tie downs and it has never moved at all. As mentioned above I always stop after about the first 50 miles and double check the straps. Best of luck to you.
That is a real nice TH. It's got the kitchen I wish my 25CB had.
Your trike should lessen the tongue weight.
BKMNI
100,000+ miles of three wheel fun and counting!
2015 Harley FLRT
2018 Can-Am F3 Limited
I use the Biker Bar. now owned by B&W hitches. You clamp the bar to the frame and drive into the latches that are bolted to floor. You can adjust the height of the latches to match the height of the trike when you are sitting on it, so the suspension is only slightly loaded. The trailer suspension does all the work and the trike suspension is not moving.
Then I use a strap on the front wheel and a couple in the rear to the the loops on the bottom of rear axle, just for peace of mind.
How strong are the typical ramps on an 8x12 or 8x14 tandem trailer? The one(s) I am looking at are by Arising industries and have 3/4 in plywood floors and cabled ramps with a little flap at the ground point of the ramp. Will a GoldWing/Hannigan conversion not overload the ramps? The conversion trike is 9 ft 6" long, will it clear the angle of the floor going up the ramp? I think it weighs almost 900 so with rider, about 1100 pounds goes up the ramp. Any helpful thoughts or suggestions on a trailer? Is a drop axel necessary?
Thanks, Jerry
I used to use soft ties over the bottom trees, but have started using the method my HD dealer uses.
front wheel in a wheel chock without the locking device used on two wheelers, run a tie down inside the forks just above the front fender mounts on both sides. This secures the trike and allows the trikes suspension to function as it should. For the rear I run a tie through the rear wheels and tir to a floor ring in a X pattern...
Works for me.
2017 Tri Glide, Bonnieville Blue / Fathom Blue
2005 Bushtec Roadstar Trailer
BLUE KNIGHTS, KY II
AMA, HOG, Iron Butt Member