Results 51 to 60 of 60
01-14-2017, 03:20 AM #51TrikeTalk Sponsor
Friday the 13th update continued.
Finished tightening up all the motor mounts.
Installed the front sprocket.
Notice the rear sprotor is gone...we are still waiting on the new one to arrive.
Got both wheels on. Notice the front is still sitting up a bit high, even after the 3* rake.
Tank mocked up.
Fender is mocked up, with some hose between the tire and the underside of the fender to space it out a bit.
Chrome aftermarket Front Caliper is bolted on.
Still need to shave off the fender mounts from the fork legs.
Also, notice the frame rails are almost even now. We slid the forks up the trees about an inch to get it more level.
We will probably end up going with 1" fork extensions, instead of the 2" extensions that are currently in place. We'll wait til everything else is in place before making that decision.
Added the seat to the mix. Also, moved the tank down the backbone a bit.
It looked good earlier today, but after looking at the photo's, I think the tank needs to go back up the backbone a bit, and the seat needs to go forward a bit.
Want to even out the spacing between the back of the seat and the rear fender, to make it more the same as the space between the front of the seat and the back of the tank.
Looks like this is where we'll put the kickstand...right behind the primary.
I'm going to let these pics percolate a bit. Then next week we'll get the tank, seat, cross-member and kickstand all in place.
The seat will be the largest project, need to fab the front hinge, the top and bottom shock mounts, and weld them all in place.
Next week the new sprotor should arrive and we can get that installed and see what, if any, spacer work we need to do.
A note about my work area: I normally work on my bikes on my lift table in my own shop. But since so much is needing to be welded, I have the bike at the DK Shop.
But the DK Shop is Not a bike shop...it is a manufacturing shop... A busy and full one. So I have this one little corner that I cleared a bunch of stuff out of and made it the little "cubicle" I'm working in.
All done for the day, and wheeled it into the corner of the space I cleared out.
We only just barely started...but it looks a lot different today than the day I picked it up!
Post Thanks / Like - 5 Likes
01-17-2017, 05:55 PM #52TrikeTalk Sponsor
I was not planning on working on the Sportster....BUT, the new Sprotor came in.
I was Very curious to see if it was going to fit without having to cut into the frame.
Sitting in its' corner, waiting for some attention.
Pulled the rear wheel, and when I went to install the sprotor, the hub ring was the wrong size. I went ahead and bolted it up anyway, so I could check the caliper fitment.
Next thing was that they forgot to include the adapter for 3/4" axle fitment. Went ahead and put it on anyway.
WhooHoo! It fits and I may do just a small amount of grinding on the axle plate to get clearance for maximum adjustment!
Already got all the measurements for machining the hub ring and axle adapter. Should have them in hand tomorrow.
Next up is getting the seat & seat shock brackets fabbed & welded in place.
Post Thanks / Like - 4 Likes
01-17-2017, 07:18 PM #53
^...Looking good Kevin
It really goes a long way in keeping the bike's looks on the simple & "uncluttered" side.
Its hard to let new parts sit after their arrival isn't it?
Have you used a "sprotor" on anything you've built before?
I've never seen one in use on anyone's bike around here, so I'm wondering how they keep the brake pads clean & free of chain lube?
01-19-2017, 11:33 AM #54TrikeTalk Sponsor
Yep, I had ants in my pants to see if it would fit.
I've never used a Sprotor before. I've seen them on quite a few bikes that friends own, and always wanted one.
I'll be cleaning all the shipping chain lube off the outside of the chain. That is an O-Ring chain, that is supposed to seal the factory lube on the inside, also keeping dirt out of the inside. Centrifugal force throws any lube out, away from the rotor...that is the theory, and mostly works in practice.
Many who run a Sprotor use a little softer pad to keep a good bite. Since I use front brake 90% of the time, I am not worried about going thru rear pads too quickly.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
01-19-2017, 11:36 AM #55TrikeTalk Sponsor
Several folks have asked for more details on the tools for removing the factory races and installing the raked cups and races. Here are some photos for them and anyone else interested-
A couple more photo's on the tool for installing the raked cups and matching races.Because everything goes in at a different angle, and off center, the tools are made to accommodate.Photos of the race puller tool-The tool is adjustable.You can see it is smaller than the race here-When you turn the adjuster, it gets larger-You can see here it is firmly gripping the inside of the race-Here are a couple of photos of it, as we pulled the old races out-You can see the race is almost completely removed from the steering head-Kevin
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01-19-2017, 05:23 PM #56TrikeTalk Sponsor
Had a nice 4 hour window that we were able to get the seat done.
Here is what we started with-
Our Premium Leather Seat
A mountain bike frame shock
Misc tabs and a seat hinge.
First step...a strip of 11 gauge steel, drill some holes, tack weld some tabs to it...
...then bolt it onto the seat and test mount the shock on it.
Next, rework the seat hinge to fit the frame and the seat.
Gotta heat it up....
...to get a curve in it...
....to match the seat pan curve.
Both brackets on the seat...
...next is to get their counterparts on the frame.
Seat hinge and shock tabs, both tacked in place.
Continued in next post-
Post Thanks / Like - 3 Likes
01-19-2017, 05:50 PM #57TrikeTalk Sponsor
Kudo's to Matt! The entire 4 hours Devin and I were working on the Sporty, Matt was knocking out Tank Lifts, then doing the finish work on them & some TTI's to get them ready for powder.
BEFORE YOU LOOK AT THE PIC BELOW....We didn't like it either and we changed it.
It is sitting up too high for our taste...
...no matter what angle, it just wasn't "right".
That is why we tacked it only. So we left the bottom shock mounts in the same place, and just knocked the seat hinge off and tacked it up 1 1/8" further down the backbone.
That looks much better...also puts the shock at a steeper angle. This results in more seat travel.
The shock has 1" of travel, with the angle it is at, the seat, at the back, has 2 1/4" travel, and at the center of the seat it is 1 1/2" travel.
Hopefully that is enough for my old bones.
btw, the tabs we used for the lower shock mounts are slotted. In the pic above, the shock is all the way forward in the slot. I will probably move it back a bit to get the rear of the seat sitting just a tad higher.
Devin went ahead and welded the seat hinge and shock tabs to the frame, while I did a bit of clean up and prepped the kickstand.
Kickstand mount welded in place-
Gonna be much easier now...
...moving the bike around.
I am hoping to get some time tomorrow, or this weekend, to get the tank mounted, and the sprotor, adapters, & spacers all done.
Next week (maybe tomorrow) we can get the cross-member fully welded in place. Once I see exactly where the tire is going to go in the frame... Then we can work on cutting, bracing & mounting the fender.
Post Thanks / Like - 3 Likes
Yesterday, 08:05 PM #58TrikeTalk Sponsor
Yesterday I took about 3 hours to get the tank mounts done. Matt helped me, as you will see.
First off was getting the holes drilled & centered in the front....
...and rear tank tabs.
Next up was to use the Top Hat bungs I got from TC Bros. They have blind threads...once these are welded into the frame, there is no access to inside the frame for any moisture to get in there.
I spent a substantial amount of time getting everything centered and spaced properly Before drilling into the backbone of the frame.
Top Hats test fitted into frame.
I test fit the tank several times during the process...and not once did I take a photo. Will get one next week.
Prepping the surface for welding.
Next up was putting some anti-seize on the threads, putting the fasteners into the Top Hats, and tacking them in. Then another test fit...no photo!
Next up was to tack all the way around. Can't do a solid bead, it will draw the Top Hat out of alignment, and possibly distort the threads, even with the bolts in them.
So Matt took his time, doing a couple of tacks, then switching to the other one, back and forth, never getting them too hot.
All done welding.
Partially done smoothing it out.
Matt has some mad skills with the sander at finishing it out. I could have gone for an hour solid and not got half as good a finish as he got it 15 minutes.
Hope to make more good progress next week!
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
Yesterday, 08:20 PM #59
bike looks fantastic. wish I had the ability to build one
Today, 03:47 PM #60TrikeTalk Sponsor
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