Ness Big Sucker

[MikeyTX]

Has anyone tried to vent the Ness Big Sucker designed for the '14-up Rushmore 103 engine ? If so, how did you do it ?

[1dn5up]

I run with the Ness a/c. Since I've been running the oil 1/2 qt low, no more blow by problems.

[MikeyTX]

As do I. I'm simply wondering if anyone has vented it to the atmosphere. Dealer never gave me the installation instructions. I'm wondering if I can use the OE banjo bolts that have the hose nipples on them. They should be the same length as the ones from Ness. I want to keep the vapors from being ingested.

[rhino 2]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>1dn5up</strong>
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<div class="message">I run with the Ness a/c. Since I've been running the oil 1/2 qt low, no more blow by problems.</div>

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</div>Yep 1/2 qt low.. And no more Rube Goldberg fix's are needed..<br />
And the low part is a misnomer ...Proper level on the dipstick is half way between the add and full mark.. If you try to keep it at the full mark the oil will seek its own level...Through Blow-bye...

[MikeyTX]

Yup, 3 qt exactly with the filter is mid point on the dipstick. I still want the engine vented to the outside !

[DK Custom Products]

We have hundreds of Customers running the AN BS with our External Breather Systems.<br />
<br />
Most are using one of the <a href="http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/All-Twin-Cam-Engines_c76.htm" target="_blank">DIY Head Breather Systems</a>.<br />
<br />
Even though running at the correct oil level (midway on the dipstick), there is still oil and hot oxygen depleted air going into the intake. This results in lower performance, lower mpg, tune instability, and the inside of the engine looking like this-<br />
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<img src="http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/TwinCam1M3.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
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If you think that just because an air filter is not dripping oil that all is optimum, take a read of this <a href="http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Overview-of-External-Breather-Systems-EBS-DK-FAQ-EBS.htm" target="_blank">LINK</a>.<br />
<br />
Kevin

[Jack Klarich]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>DK Custom Products</strong>
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<div class="message">We have hundreds of Customers running the AN BS with our External Breather Systems.<br />
<br />
Most are using one of the <a href="http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/All-Twin-Cam-Engines_c76.htm" target="_blank">DIY Head Breather Systems</a>.<br />
<br />
Even though running at the correct oil level (midway on the dipstick), there is still oil and hot oxygen depleted air going into the intake. This results in lower performance, lower mpg, tune instability, and the inside of the engine looking like this-<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/media/TwinCam1M3.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
If you think that just because an air filter is not dripping oil that all is optimum, take a read of this <a href="http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Overview-of-External-Breather-Systems-EBS-DK-FAQ-EBS.htm" target="_blank">LINK</a>.<br />
<br />
Kevin</div>

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</div>Yup, or you can modify the breathers yourself also, the AN backplate is notorious for cracking keep an eye on it

[gerald martin]

I don't understand every one saying the proper oil level on a tri or a freewheeler is half way up the dipstick. My manual and also my service manual says half way when cold and to the top when hot. It also say to allay heck the oil when the engine is at operating temp.I run the external breathers on my stock freewheeler. I also run my oil at the full mark which I check when the engine is a operating temperature and has idled two minutes. Before I put the external breathers on I had some blow by in The filter. Whith the externals I have none. I think the suction of the throttle body causes the blow by

[MikeyTX]

Yup, or you can modify the breathers yourself also, the AN backplate is notorious for cracking keep an eye on it

Just what I needed to hear.🤢 If it does, I will trash it and go back to the OEM air box. I kept it all.

[Papa Zook]

Kevin also sells the Ness Big Sucker in chrome or contrast cut already modified with his external vented system. Its on my work bench now, about to install it on my Hannigan Transformer.

http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Opti...AN-DCI-BLK.htm

[MikeyTX]

Kevin also sells the Ness Big Sucker already modified with his external vented system. Its on my work bench now, about to install it on my Hannigan Transformer.

http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Opti...AN-DCI-BLK.htm

That's the one you built out of Lego's you got from the neighborhood kids isn't it ? 😎

[DK Custom Products]

I don't understand every one saying the proper oil level on a tri or a freewheeler is half way up the dipstick. My manual and also my service manual says half way when cold and to the top when hot. It also say to allay heck the oil when the engine is at operating temp.I run the external breathers on my stock freewheeler. I also run my oil at the full mark which I check when the engine is a operating temperature and has idled two minutes. Before I put the external breathers on I had some blow by in The filter. Whith the externals I have none. I think the suction of the throttle body causes the blow by

You still have blow-by, it is a normal thing, and all engines have it. With your EBS you are just not seeing it like you were.

Yes, the HD manual on checking oil/correct level can be confusing.

The following is straight from the HD manual, and it is the same for the Twin Cams and the Sportster Evo motors-

"The correct oil level should register midway between the FULL and ADD marks on the dipstick.

If oil level is at or below the ADD mark, add only enough oil to bring the level to the middle of the two marks on the dipstick."

One of the confusing things is that Harley states that the correct (or full) level is "midway between the FULL and ADD marks on the dipstick."

While it is true if it is at or below the ADD mark, then some oil should be added. What is NOT true, is if it is at the FULL mark, it is full.

If it is at the Full mark it is OVERFILLED.



Some will point out that the above applies to a cold oil check, and that is correct.

It is also correct that the manual states that you can fill the oil to the top mark on a hot oil check.

IT IS ALSO CORRECT that the manual states that when it is HOT, as long as it is above the lower mark you do NOT need to add any oil at all.

Experience has shown that the ideal level is midway between the two marks, hot or cold.

Kevin

[Jack Klarich]

Just what I needed to hear.🤢 If it does, I will trash it and go back to the OEM air box. I kept it all.

Kevin from DK is going to be having me stop by to show how to modify a stock air box for my idea with my home made breather kit with a special part stay tuned its a secret for now, But it works good

[gerald martin]

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I am coping right out of the 2015 touring service manual page 1-15

OIL LEVEL COLD CHECK

1. Place vehicle on level ground for PRE RIDE

2. Remove dipstick, wipe off . Insert dipstick and tighten into fill spout

3. Correct oil level is midway between ADD and FULL HOT

HOT LEVEL OIL CHECK

Preform engine oil level hot check only with engine at normal operating temperature

1. Run motorcycle until oil is at normal operating temp

2. Allow engine to run one to two minutes on level ground

3. Remove and wipe off dipstick. Insert dipstick and tighten fully into fill spout

4, oil must register between ADD QT and FULL HOT marks. If oil is below ADD QT add only enough oil to bring the level to the FULL HOT mark.

Do not overfill

HOWEVER

on my freewheeler I am running the oil just below the full hot (about the four dots below full hot)

the manual says when the engine is cold the oil level should drop to half way on the dip stick.

My oil level stays the same hot or cold.does anyone elses do this?

[MikeyTX]

This issue reminds me of a dog chasing its tail. I am happy with my way of handling the issue just as so many others are with theirs. That, is what counts imho.

[consitter]

This issue reminds me of a dog chasing its tail. I am happy with my way of handling the issue just as so many others are with theirs. That, is what counts imho.

Dogs chasing their tails are funny.

[MikeyTX]

Agree ............ My ex wife could do a pretty good imitation ................... ......

[DK Custom Products]

- - - Updated - - -

I am coping right out of the 2015 touring service manual page 1-15

OIL LEVEL COLD CHECK

1. Place vehicle on level ground for PRE RIDE

2. Remove dipstick, wipe off . Insert dipstick and tighten into fill spout

3. Correct oil level is midway between ADD and FULL HOT

HOT LEVEL OIL CHECK

Preform engine oil level hot check only with engine at normal operating temperature

1. Run motorcycle until oil is at normal operating temp

2. Allow engine to run one to two minutes on level ground

3. Remove and wipe off dipstick. Insert dipstick and tighten fully into fill spout

4, oil must register between ADD QT and FULL HOT marks.

If oil is below ADD QT

add only enough oil to bring the level to the FULL HOT mark.

Do not overfill

HOWEVER

on my freewheeler I am running the oil just below the full hot (about the four dots below full hot)

the manual says when the engine is cold the oil level should drop to half way on the dip stick.

My oil level stays the same hot or cold.does anyone elses do this?

As you can see by what you copied from the manual, it can be confusing.

Look at what I put in bold from your manual.

Since your oil stays at the same level whether hot or cold (and this is not unusual) and the manual state that when cold the correct oil level is at the midway point....

That means when you fill it to just below the Full Hot mark when it is hot, it is ABOVE the midway point when it is cold...which is obviously overfilled according to the manual.

Also, the manual states to only add oil when it is below the add qt mark.

This appears to mean that if it is even a smidgen above that point that you do not need to add any oil.

It all becomes less confusing when you take into account that the Harley engine is a dry sump design.

Unlike automobiles that pick up the oil from the oil pan (wet sump).

The Harley engine pumps the oil from the oil tank, that is separate from the engine, thru the engine, and then back into the the tank.

The only purpose for the tank is so that there is a supply of oil for the pump to push thru the engine. As long as that oil in the tank is at the add quart mark, there is enough oil for the pump to do its job.

The only theoretical benefit to having 1/2 - 1 quart more oil than is necessary (at the add quart mark) is that the oil has a few seconds longer to sit in the tank (and cool down) before it is pushed back thru the engine. This benefit is so small it is not readily measurable.

With more oil it also means the wear on the oil is reduced by the oil not being used as much.

Both of these supposed benefits are negligible.

******************************

To get the dog to chase its' tail some more.....

There are oversized oil tanks (Baker) that add 1.5 quarts to the total capacity. The idea being that the extra 1.5 quarts will give the oil even more of a rest/cooling down period before being pumped back thru the engine.

Engines that have these pans do run cooler, by 15-20*. However, it is more from the internal baffling design and the outer cooling fin design of these pans than it is from the extra capacity.

There...was that fun watching the dog make a few more circles. lol

Kevin

[gerald martin]

Thanks Kevin
We can always count on you to have the correct advise, I only wish there were other business persons like you and your staff you are becoming a rare breed

[Sloufoot]

Something I have never figured out is why Harley doesn't fin the exterior & interior of the oil pan ! It would more than double cooling efficacy for the oil while in the pan.
But you have to admit you have a cooling problem first I guess.