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Thread: 88 blazer trike
01-06-2017, 07:05 PM #31
"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"
Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:
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01-06-2017, 09:26 PM #32
A highly-effective rust preventative designed to protect internal engine components during storage or long periods of inactivity. Ideal for outboard motors, lawn and garden equipment, motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATVs, motor homes and generators or any equipment with a two- or four-stroke engine.
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01-07-2017, 12:02 PM #33
As a follow on to my earlier post, any light oil/ATF should work to coat the cylinder walls if you're putting it down for under a year.
Longer, & a true fogging oil is definitely the way to go.
Then again on the other hand you hear of folks starting up a motor that has sat 10 years or more, just adding gas, fresh batt. & it fires right up
01-07-2017, 04:13 PM #34
I changed the oil and filter the ran it for a bit
I picked up the fogger and some fuel stabilizer
Per the directions on the can I sprayed some down the TB and the in each spark plug hole.
I have read that some people "pickle" the engine. Basically fill the engine completely full with oil. I have not done this yet
What do you think about that?
Tore more of it apart today
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01-07-2017, 04:30 PM #35
Not sure I'd fill the eng completely full w/oil, unless you're storing it in a place that experiences constant high humidity, or somewhere that condensation is a major issue.
Normal oil fill in the block, & fogging all cylinders should be all you really need to do.
If you plan on using the stock fuel tank, filling w/fuel & stabilizer is suggested...
01-09-2017, 10:42 AM #36
01-09-2017, 01:15 PM #37
ESC = Electronic Spark Control.
01-10-2017, 07:24 PM #38
the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry
01-11-2017, 03:19 PM #39
Good suggestions on the manuals. I will do that.
Almost have it ready to take the body off. Its been cold so I have been working slow. I'm still ahead of schedule though
I think before I narrow the rear end and frame I will wait until it gets a little warmer out. Its just to hard/tight to work with the doors closed and to cold to work with them open.
I may have a line on a 2wd Trany to replace the 4wd one I have now. I am hoping to trade the old one and a rifle for it. Got to wait to until I get the body off for I can see what exactly I have. I could just crawl under it but the concrete is cold
I think its a 700r4/4l60
01-16-2017, 07:52 AM #40
When I put the engine back together I will only need Crank, Water pump and Altenator
I can make brackets to mount the alternator on either side
But I do not come up with a good belt path.
This is not my engine but its setup the same
By Bazooka in forum General DiscussionReplies: 13Last Post: 12-07-2016, 02:39 PM