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Thread: Gas fumes problem

  1. #21
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    Default

    Sorry I didn't write the part numbers down and it was several years ago. I replaced both. I got them from my HD dealer parts department.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

  2. #22
    70+ Posts Dr. Joe's Avatar
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    Default

    went to HD dealer today and PN 11323A that I mentioned earlier ain't the one... too big. And their parts info don't show any replacement o-rings, just a replace gas line ($62). However J&P Cycles sells the o-rings. Also found out that the dimensions for it are:
    (ID)10mm x (OD)14mm x (thick)2mm.

    Will report once the job is completed...plan to do it tomorrow.

  3. #23
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    Default This might help some people.

    I went through this leaking o ring fuel disconnect ordeal about 5 years ago. It took me about a week of research to get the real facts and sizes on the o rings. The female fitting actually has 2 o rings in it. The lower one seems to be the one that usually leaks first. It can be changed "on the bike" with a dental type pick and a little patience. I took my tank off (2007 RG) and changed both of them. If you do this be sure to release the pressure by pushing up on the end of the fitting with a rag or something over it. This will keep the gas spray from hitting you in the face...! I know this for a fact...!

    Below is the information from my order with McMaster-Carr for these o rings. All of the info that helped me with this was received from several guys on the forums back in 2012.

    1 9464K44 Viton(R) Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 109, packs of 50 1
    pack
    Monday morning 5.04
    per pack
    5.04
    2 5267T487 Brown Viton(R) Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 905, packs of 25 1
    pack
    Monday morning 3.04
    per pack
    3.04

    The number that is after the "Dash Number" is the common size indicator for each ring. One is a 109 and one is a 905.

    The below is a cut and paste from one of the guys that helped me with this:

    "Many thanks to n8dc for his help and research. What he told me is that the o ring is size -905. They can be ordered from McMaster.com. Insider diameter is .414", outside diameter is .558" and thickness is .072".The smaller o ring that holds the poppet or piston in is a - 109 with a .299 od and a .505 od.I purchsed Harley part number 11273 for $1.33 but they could not give me the specs on that o ring. Since our store is only about a mile away from the John Deere machinery dealer, I stopped by there and purchased Deere part number R26286 for $0.85 because Deere could give me the specs.R26286 has the proper I.S. diameter of .414" and the proper thickness of .072", so I installed it and my leaking problem is solved. Coincidently, I lined up the Harley 11273 next to the Deere R26286 and the standard o ring on the oil drain plug and, while I didn't use a micrometer, all 3 appeared to be exactly the same size so I suspect good results could be had with each of them.For others attempting this fix, I used a dental pick to remove the old o ring and found a huge chunk had been taken out of it. The removal took all of 3 seconds. Then the fun began. n8dc gave me a great suggestion to get the new o ring seated. Following his advice, I pushed the ring into the female connector and, using my wife's cosmetic mirror, manipulated it with the dental pick until I got one edge partially seated in the groove in the wall of the connector.I then used the dental pic and pulled the o ring down into the groove as best I could until I had perhaps 20-25% of the ring seated in the groove. n8dc suggested using a 9/32 quarter inch socket to push the unseated portion of the o ring up into the groove. I tried that repeatedly without success.What worked for me was to use my little finger to push the unseated portion up into the groove. A little fuel leaked out in the process, but it popped right in the first time I abandoned the socket and used my little finger. I popped in the fuel line and it was a tight fit but the leaking has stopped. Total time involved was probably 20 minutes."

    As I said earlier, I did mine with the tank off and changed both o rings. I also made up two quick disconnect hoses and fittings so I could drain my 07RG tank without making a mess again, but that is another story.

    I am also enclosing 3 pictures that was sent to me that gives you a lot better idea of the inside of the fitting.

    Name:  scan0001.jpg
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    16 TGU Mysterious Red / Velocity Red. FM Ceramic Head pipe and FM E-Series tunable exhaust. PV Target Tune-AT WB Tuner. DK Outlaw 606 AC with EBS, Ward’s FCS fans. DK Custom Oil filter/Cooler relocation kit, Comfort Lift and 14 inch shocks. DK tank lift, wind deflectors, floorboard extenders, and tour pak relocator. Chrome TGU wheels. Bad Ass Lights tail lights. Lighted controls and Krome Works 2+2 narrow handle bars.

  4. #24
    70+ Posts Dr. Joe's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks! That's some mighty fine information there! I'll print it and put it in my service manual. I'll also get some Viton o-rings to have on hand as well as to eventually replace the one that I already put in as it is just rubber.
    I had no problems at all replacing the lower o-ring of the upper part of the female fitting. I used a dental pick that I purchased from Walmart, along with a small mirror and one of them free small (so as to hold it in my mouth) led flashlights from Harbour Freight. It took me only 20 minutes. You just sit by the bike looking down at the mirror, put the mirror under the fitting, shine the light into the mirror and, while looking down into the mirror, move it around to get the best view and best illumination, and with everything in plain sight, and no twisting of the neck, it's pretty simple to pop the old one out! Then I just pushed the new one up into the fitting as far as I could with my little finger ( after releasing the pressure ), then got my mirror and flashlight into position again, and once everything was in focus again it was very simple to use the dental pick to move the o-ring into it's groove. That was yesterday and today I took it out for a nice ride and as of tonight everything is holding quite nicely.
    Also, the o-ring I wound up putting in was purchased from my local NAPA store. The inside dimension is 10mm and the thickness is 2mm, which is the same as the one I took out. I'ts just rubber so I'll eventually change it over. The one I took out lasted 5 years & 55K miles so I think I have enough time and I'll replace them all with Viton o-rings.
    Thanks again for everyone's input and it was really nice to be able to solve this problem for just a couple of bucks!.... God Bless the Internet!!!!!

  5. #25
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    Default Bottom O Ring

    Yep, the bottom one in the female fitting is easy once you do it. The upper one is harder, but luckily the bottom one is usually the one that causes most of the leaks. I ordered 50 of each and gave all my friends a couple of each to keep with them. Glad you got it fixed.
    16 TGU Mysterious Red / Velocity Red. FM Ceramic Head pipe and FM E-Series tunable exhaust. PV Target Tune-AT WB Tuner. DK Outlaw 606 AC with EBS, Ward’s FCS fans. DK Custom Oil filter/Cooler relocation kit, Comfort Lift and 14 inch shocks. DK tank lift, wind deflectors, floorboard extenders, and tour pak relocator. Chrome TGU wheels. Bad Ass Lights tail lights. Lighted controls and Krome Works 2+2 narrow handle bars.

  6. DKCustoms postbit
  7. #26
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    Default

    check your vent hose bet it is plugged or pinched
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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