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Thread: Tech Tip on easier maintenance

  1. #1
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    Default Tech Tip on easier maintenance

    You may already know this, but when I am at dealerships, I see most of the "techs" spending far more time on changing the primary fluid than is necessary.

    Most of the time you see them removing the passenger floorboard mount to get to the one derby cover torx that is blocked by the passenger floorboard.

    This does not take a terribly long time....UNLESS you have Adjustable Passenger Pegs mounted to the floorboard....then it take a Much longer period of time to remove the passenger floorboard mount to get to that blocked torx on the Derby.

    Tip on how to make it faster-

    1. Remove the floorboard rubber pad (it just pulls off)



    2. Push out the retaining pins (use a screwdriver, allen wrench, whatever's handy)



    3. Remove Floorboard



    The whole process takes 20 seconds.

    Now you have access to the blocked torx fastener. (keep track of the spring and ball bearing that are in the floorboard mount)



    Now you can refill your primary.



    Once done, replace your Derby cover, put the floorboard back on the mount, pushing the two pins back in place, then put the rubber pad back on the floorboard...it just pushes on. Sometimes a little silicone spray will help the rubber tits to go back thru the retaining holes more easily.

    Kevin
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    Thank you for that tip, always glad to receive tips that make things easier

    All for now Trampas

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    Two factors that affect if you need to remove the passenger floorboard:

    -What height adjustment the passenger floorboard is at

    -If you have the standard width primary or the "reduced width primary"

    Obviously, if you can remove your derby without the need to remove the floorboard, this tech tip is not for you.

    I think, not sure, that all the M8's have the reduced width primary.

    Perhaps someone with a M8, that has the passenger floorboards at the lowest adjustment, that has pulled their Derby cover, can chime in.

    Kevin
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    450+ Posts Bill G's Avatar
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    Default

    There is no need to remove the foot board at all to change the primary fluid on the 2017 M8. With that said I don't have the foot boards at the lowest position.

    The primary cover will slide right out or off not touching the foot board. Of course use a little caution not to scratch things.

    Ride Safe All,

    Bill G
    Through Jesus Christ, I a sinner am saved. Not by my doing but through his doing by his sacrifice and Blood Shed on the Cross. His gift to all mankind that will only believe and accept him by Faith. Through his Death and Resurrection I am Saved by Grace and someday I will be with our Lord in Heaven forever.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill G View Post
    There is no need to remove the foot board at all to change the primary fluid on the 2017 M8. With that said I don't have the foot boards at the lowest position.

    The primary cover will slide right out or off not touching the foot board. Of course use a little caution not to scratch things.

    Ride Safe All,

    Bill G
    Thanks!

    I am not 100%, but I think all the M8's have reduced width primaries, so even on the bottom adjustment it might not be an issue.

    Kevin
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    Couple more photos-

    This is a 2014 Rushmore, the passenger floorboard is adjusted to its' lowest position with adjustable passenger footpegs mounted to it.

    It is Not a reduced width primary.

    This one torx fastener is directly behind the floorboard...and whether it is down flat or turned up, it is completely blocked...a wobble will not get in there.



    Even a low profile ratchet is too wide to fit in the space between the floorboard and that one torx fastener.



    Kevin
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    When I changed oil and filter yesterday I took a look at mine and I can get all to all the bolts just fine, not sure what position my passenger floor board is set at, I'm going to say it is high, not sure if the previous owner raised them for his wife, but I don't have to take my floorboard off anyway. Thanks for that tip Kevin it would have helped out if needed.

    All for now Trampas

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    450+ Posts arnie's Avatar
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    My torx may be shorter, But I just place it in the bolt head & loosen it with a 1/4" box end wrench.

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    Replaced my derby cover on my 17, didn't remove the floorboard
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    Quote Originally Posted by arnie View Post
    My torx may be shorter, But I just place it in the bolt head & loosen it with a 1/4" box end wrench.
    I tried that once. Fastener was too tight. I will try it again, next time around.

    Kevin
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    450+ Posts arnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DK Custom Products View Post
    I tried that once. Fastener was too tight. I will try it again, next time around.

    Kevin
    Very well could of been if never off before. Some things on these trikes I have noticed they were never torqued to spec. to begin with. I don't torque everything all the time neither, but I know when enough is enough!

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    I eventually striped my Torq screws. I replaced them with SS allen head screws. You can get in with a allen wrench very well.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 427dave View Post
    I eventually striped my Torq screws. I replaced them with SS allen head screws. You can get in with a allen wrench very well.
    Knock on wood...I've never stripped a torx fastener.

    But that's a great idea to replace them with allens. I believe I could get to that one that is blocked.

    Thanks!

    Kevin
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    Default

    On my stock 2016 the cover can be removed without being blocked by passenger board. Agree with comments about needing to replace with higher quality bolts though.

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    Stupid question but-can't you just use a small hand pump to pump out all the oil thru the spout you use to put it in? Once it's fairly dry, the filter should come off with minimal spillage and all that stuff about floorboards becomes irrelevant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 427dave View Post
    I eventually striped my Torq screws. I replaced them with SS allen head screws. You can get in with a allen wrench very well.
    I stripped out the Torx in the offendig position on my '14... had to drill out the head (not that hard to do since HD seems to use pot metal screws for those) and replace with good quality SS allen heads and used some anti-seize! Never had that problem again. Sure could have used this tip, though!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredward View Post
    Stupid question but-can't you just use a small hand pump to pump out all the oil thru the spout you use to put it in? Once it's fairly dry, the filter should come off with minimal spillage and all that stuff about floorboards becomes irrelevant.
    Two different animals.

    The engine oil can be pumped out, and some folks are doing that. One drawback is that it wont get the sludge (if any) at the bottom, and unless you pull the magnetic drain plug you don't get a visual of how much, if any, metal is there.

    In this thread I referring to the primary (no filter) and the derby cover is where the oil is put in.

    Seems that most folks don't have need of the tech tip I posted, since they have their floorboard set at a different height so it is not interfering with that one torx fastener...OR, they've swapped out to an allen head and it is a non-issue.

    Kevin
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