S&S Engine Install Advice Needed

[droptine42]

I need help for I have searched for the answer. On this forum has anyone installed an S&S Engine on a 2016 Tri-Glide Ultra. I would like to install the 111 or 124 once my warranty runs out and want to see who has made this modification already.

[Papa Zook]

bump for some feedback from anyone...

[trikermutha]

While I cant comment on a 2016. You may run into issues with the larger engine and need upgrades.

Ex: Clutch/spring etc,starter just to name a few.

Compression releases will help start the motor or you will trash the starter and other components.

Sometimes bigger is not always better.

[Trampas]

Why not do some work to your current motor, could do some now and still have warranty on it, up to you. Putting another motor in is costly IMHO. I know geezerglide put a 120 harley motor in his, I think that is the name of the person that did this, not sure though.

It's your bike, do what you want as trikermutha said you have to update quite a few things to handle it and more money involved.

All for now Trampas

[jackthemachinist]

Sorry, I can't help with a 2016, but I did install an S&S 111 touring motor in my 1997 ElectraGlide/DFT conversion. Of course the stock motor was an 80-inch Evo, so the performance difference was very substantial. I could not be happier with the new S&S motor. It pulls from 2200 to 6000 plus rpm. It can easily run 85 mph up the Grapevine on I-5 and still have plenty of power to pass. It also sounds like a hot-rod motor.

I did install and extra plate clutch and a Mueler clutch ramp. A heavier clutch spring has not been necessary. The automatic compression releases work very well. I did install a high-torque starter, but I'm not sure that was required. I had other electrical problems at that time (unrelated to the S&S motor).

Good luck!

As others have suggested, you can hot-rod your stock Twin Cam motor, but the stock cylinder heads are very restrictive and the cylinder bolt pattern limits bore size. S&S cases and internals are more robust than stock Harley pieces (rod and main bearing sizes, for example), so if you plan to tow a trailer (as I do), there is an extra bit of strength there. (My EVO failed due to towing a trailer, hence my decision to go with the S&S.)

Both my '97 Evo and the S&S I installed were carbureted, so I have no knowledge about fuel injection versions or how that may affect the swap.

When you are weighing the costs, don't forget that your running stock motor has a significant value. I sold my old Evo as-is with the damaged main bearing for $1000, less intake and cam.

[DK Custom Products]

I need help for I have searched for the answer. On this forum has anyone installed an S&S Engine on a 2016 Tri-Glide Ultra. I would like to install the 111 or 124 once my warranty runs out and want to see who has made this modification already.

I saw your post a few days ago, was waiting to see if anyone had done this and could give you some 1st hand help.

Back in 2011 I seriously considered, and looked into, putting a S&S engine in my 2011 Tri-Glide.

All the details are a bit fuzzy now, but the bottom line was the expense was significant, & there was no way to keep my warranty (which I wanted to because of all the electronics and other non engine parts).

The numbers were such that I could beef up my Twin Cam (including, plugging and welding the crank) for far less than the S&S, and still keep my warranty.

The less than ideal experience I had with my first Twin Cam Engine in the 2011 (it was replaced under warranty) spurred me on to years of research & development on how to get the most out of a Twin Cam in a Trike, while keeping the warranty intact.

Now with the 14+ models having a BCM in addition to the ECM, making the switch over would be even more involved and expensive, with no chance of keeping a warranty intact (which for me, with all the electronics, is a priority).

That said, I really like the S&S engines, and if you figure a way to do it, keeping all the features that make a 16 what it is, you should have a monster!

As Trampas mentioned, Geezerglide11441, who is a member here, put an HD 120 in his Tri-Glide and has really been enjoying it...so that is another option.

I'm going to keep an eye on this thread, in case you, or someone else does this project. Very interesting to me.

Kevin

[gerald martin]

I saw your post a few days ago, was waiting to see if anyone had done this and could give you some 1st hand help.

Back in 2011 I seriously considered, and looked into, putting a S&S engine in my 2011 Tri-Glide.

All the details are a bit fuzzy now, but the bottom line was the expense was significant, & there was no way to keep my warranty (which I wanted to because of all the electronics and other non engine parts).

The numbers were such that I could beef up my Twin Cam (including, plugging and welding the crank) for far less than the S&S, and still keep my warranty.

The less than ideal experience I had with my first Twin Cam Engine in the 2011 (it was replaced under warranty) spurred me on to years of research & development on how to get the most out of a Twin Cam in a Trike, while keeping the warranty intact.

Now with the 14+ models having a BCM in addition to the ECM, making the switch over would be even more involved and expensive, with no chance of keeping a warranty intact (which for me, with all the electronics, is a priority).

That said, I really like the S&S engines, and if you figure a way to do it, keeping all the features that make a 16 what it is, you should have a monster!

As Trampas mentioned, Geezerglide11441, who is a member here, put an HD 120 in his Tri-Glide and has really been enjoying it...so that is another option.

I'm going to keep an eye on this thread, in case you, or someone else does this project. Very interesting to me.

Kevin

What is a BCM

[DK Custom Products]

What is a BCM

Body Control Module

It is one unit that controls all the non engine accessories on the bike, light, signals, etc.

ie. we use to have a turn signal module, tip over module, etc. Now it is all controlled by the BCM.

Kevin

[Freewheeling Ron]

I wish I had a BCM. Might alert you to, you've eaten too much red meat, or cut back on your alcohol intake. Such helpful advice like that. Wait, I have one. My lovely wife.

[eighty80]

My Trike is a 2012 not a 2016, which I know nothing about. So my info will probably not help you.

The trike, 103, in my opinion, needed more TQ. So I had the cams changed to 255's.

Still not enough for me. I had the motor changed to a 120R and changed the cams.

[droptine42]

Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. I have to decided to upgrade the 103 and build the engine to my driving style. Even pursuing this route is going to be expensive but as someone told me in another thread at least this way all my numbers would match the bike. Again thanks for the comments.

[eighty80]

Yes this is true. I got a MSO from the dealer. Not a big deal, but I also got the original motor.

When you have your motor built, build it with lots of TQ in mind. It will need it or you will be disappointed.

I also did the clutch, air cleaner, dyno tune, exhaust, and both oil cooler fans and wards cooling fans. More HP and TQ equals more heat. I have not had to change the belt, but I don't run at the drag-strip either.

It ain't cheap but loads of fun.

[Wheeler]

I have the 110 bolt on kit with the 585 cams. Just got it dyno tuned. 89 hp, 109 tq.

Jackpot head pipe, high flow air filter and Kurakan crusher mellow mufflers. It's not much louder than stock.

I also added Love Jugs mighty mite cooling fans.

[DK Custom Products]

Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions. I have to decided to upgrade the 103 and build the engine to my driving style. Even pursuing this route is going to be expensive but as someone told me in another thread at least this way all my numbers would match the bike. Again thanks for the comments.

Before spending a bunch of $$$ on a big upgrade.

Try doing a Performance Plus Stage I Upgrade. You will need it anyway if you decide to go bigger. BUT, you may be surprised at what kind of power you can get from a proper Stage I upgrade coupled with keeping the heat down with some cooling strategies.

My '14 Tri-Glide that has just a Performance Plus Stage I upgrade, along with things done to keep it from getting too hot, regularly out-performs Stage II trikes, and stays pretty close to most Stage IV, and better than some.

Take a look at this dyno chart...notice the #'s compared with some of the numbers you see from bikes that have had thousands of more $$$ spent on them.



Then if you are not happy with 105 TQ and 84 HP, you have a great foundation for going bigger.

Kevin

[Freewheeling Ron]

What's involved in the Stage 1 plus?

Upps, never mind let me read the hot link first.

[427dave]

The engine blew up in my 2011 trike last weekend, so I have ordered a Harley 120st. I can't wait to get it back and see what the difference will be. I am sure it will be better than the ole blown engine. I have a SE compensator so they think only a clutch spring change is all that may need changing.

[geezerglide11441]

Why not do some work to your current motor, could do some now and still have warranty on it, up to you. Putting another motor in is costly IMHO. I know geezerglide put a 120 harley motor in his, I think that is the name of the person that did this, not sure though.

It's your bike, do what you want as trikermutha said you have to update quite a few things to handle it and more money involved.

All for now Trampas

You are correct Trampas, it was me!! I spent around $8,500 putting the 120r in my trike with all the necessary components need to handle the additional Torque. I would also do it again, as it is a real rush when you twist the throttle. I do not ride it hard either. I only kept the OEM 103" motor in the Trike for about 50 miles or so and sold it to a gentleman in Conneticut. So I full understand to OP wanting to go a little bigger, and I wish him luck. As long as he strengthens the entire drive train system to handled the additional Torque he will be fine, and enjoy the upgrade.

Roger

[geezerglide11441]

The engine blew up in my 2011 trike last weekend, so I have ordered a Harley 120st. I can't wait to get it back and see what the difference will be. I am sure it will be better than the ole blown engine. I have a SE compensator so they think only a clutch spring change is all that may need changing.

427dave, you might take a look at the AIM-VPR clutch plate as I am not sure the Heavy Duty clutch spring will hold it sufficiently. As I recall the 120st has the SE 259E cams in it in lieu of the SE266E that come in the 120r. I have changed my SE266E cams for the T-Man 577's and it makes the street manners a lot better. The SE266E cams in the 120r are high horsepower cams and the SE259E's are mid-range cams and you will like them a lot. You might also consider upgrading your Throttle Body and Injectors as well.

Good luck with your installation!

Roger

[427dave]

427dave, you might take a look at the AIM-VPR clutch plate as I am not sure the Heavy Duty clutch spring will hold it sufficiently. As I recall the 120st has the SE 259E cams in it in lieu of the SE266E that come in the 120r. I have changed my SE266E cams for the T-Man 577's and it makes the street manners a lot better. The SE266E cams in the 120r are high horsepower cams and the SE259E's are mid-range cams and you will like them a lot. You might also consider upgrading your Throttle Body and Injectors as well.

Good luck with your installation!

Roger

Thanks for the info Roger. The 120st comes with a 58 mm throttle body, and larger injectors. You are correct se 259E cams. It is the same as the 120R except for about 1/2 point lower compression from dished pistons and the 259 cams. I have a SE compensator and a stronger clutch spring. So we will see how it will push the trike. I hope a lot better . The dealer is doing the install and Dyno. So hopefully if there are problems they will show up on the dyno. Thanks again.

[427dave]

Have the 120ST installed and Dyno tuned. What a difference in power from the old 103. Dyno figures are Max Power = 118 hp, Max torque = 130 and this is with stock mufflers and V&H 2-1-2 header. Clutch isn't slipping with the heavier spring. Have a SE compensator. Big difference is from 55 with 2up and passing, small twist of throttle in 6th gear and you are up to 80 in nothing flat . No more down shifting to pass.