Shifting issues

[Pauline]

I purchased a used 2016 Freewheeler with 6100 miles on it. After riding about 350 miles I started having issues with shifting down into first gear. All the other gears shift down smoothly. I come to a light after shifting down through the gears and shift into first but the bike doesn't recognize I'm in first or is not actually shifting down properly. Somewhere between 2nd and (neutral) 1st gear there is a problem. It will show I'm in first but when I go to take off...nothing. Goes nowhere. So I have to shift into neutral, release the clutch, pull the clutch back in and shift down into first again before it will go. One time I did that and it acted like it was in third gear. Very weird. So...I took it to the dealer and he told me it could be the actuator. Can someone please explain to me exactly what an actuator is and how it works.

[Freewheeling Ron]

Not sure about the acuator, but it should still be in warranty if it's a 2016.

[HDB0B]

First I would have you check the 3 pinch bolts on the shift linkage up front. They have no lock washers or loctite from the factory. Remove each and apply blue loctite. The rear is usually not a problem ... but also worth checking. The rear is a 5/16" allen and easy to get if you remove the connecting rod first.

If everything is OK ... then as said it should be under warranty. I really don't understand why that Dealer did not get you in for a repair.

Bob

[Jack Klarich]

https://betterlever.com/

Look here, u have a hydraulic clutch, there is NO adjustment. The shifter lever on the tranny is a weak design, the lever comes loose, this Better lever does a nice job

Look at the picture below @ # 18

		View image in actual size.
Open image in own window.		View image in 100% of available space.

GEAR SHIFTER ASSEMBLY

[Jack Klarich]

		View image in actual size.
Open image in own window.		View image in 100% of available space.

TRANSMISSION BEARINGS W/ SIDE COVERS

# 29 is the hydraulic clutch actuator, note the bleeder screw. You can pump the clutch handle 3-5 times, do not give it FULL bottoming pumps, in other words DO NOT pull the lever to the bars while pumping, use exact pumping, not fast, NOW use a Velcro strap or tape around the lever to the handle bars, Next open the bleeder , keep the left master cylinder full, cover up your paint, dot 4 brake fluid is hard on paint and chrome. After you bleed and top off and cover the cylinder IF your clutch does NOT work right, u may have a bad Master and or a bad Actuator and a worn clutch. I hope this helps. Harley has never fully addressed this issues IMO, I am working on an adjustment for our clutches, it is NOT overl expensive or hard to do IMO

[Pauline]

		View image in actual size.
Open image in own window.		View image in 100% of available space.

TRANSMISSION BEARINGS W/ SIDE COVERS

# 29 is the hydraulic clutch actuator, note the bleeder screw. You can pump the clutch handle 3-5 times, do not give it FULL bottoming pumps, in other words DO NOT pull the lever to the bars while pumping, use exact pumping, not fast, NOW use a Velcro strap or tape around the lever to the handle bars, Next open the bleeder , keep the left master cylinder full, cover up your paint, dot 4 brake fluid is hard on paint and chrome. After you bleed and top off and cover the cylinder IF your clutch does NOT work right, u may have a bad Master and or a bad Actuator and a worn clutch. I hope this helps. Harley has never fully addressed this issues IMO, I am working on an adjustment for our clutches, it is NOT overl expensive or hard to do IMO

After much hair pulling and research the dealer DID get me in under warranty and it turns out there was air in the line? He said he bled the line and now it's fine. I'll find out tomorrow. From what you told me to do, I'm guessing that is what the dealer did. I want to thank you for the diagrams and the explanations. At least now I know what an actuator is and does. Google, believe it or not, was no help. Usually Google knows everything. LOL