32k .. Service

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Today I did the services that should of been done by 32k on my 08. Went pretty much as expected.

Flushed and replaced clutch fluid. The clutch fluid was so bad the lens on the sight glass was fogged. Got it mostly cleaned and the new fluid finished the job.

Flushed and replaced front brake fluid. The front brake fluid didn't look all that bad, but while I was at it, just did it, now I know where I am.

Flushed and replaced the rear brake fluid. Rears where harder to flush, might be because they are automobile calipers. The rear fluid looked pretty good, but again, now I know when it was done.

Drained, flushed and refilled the coolant. I didn't remove the coolant overflow, as per shop manual, I just sucked the coolant out with a vacuum pump bleeder. After draining everything, I filled with fresh Honda coolant, started bike, let it run to normal temp, and drained it again. Then refilled with fresh Honda coolant. The coolant was like pea green and I know the Honda fluid is blue, so it may have been done before.

Did an oil change and filter change. Oil looked a little dirty to me, again not sure when it was done last, I know now ...

Drained and filled rear differential and lubed the drive shaft zirc. On the Champion Kit is there just the one zirc on the universal joint? I couldn't see any others.

Cleaned all switches with contact cleaner. After seeing what was in the clutch switch, figured it couldn't hurt.Checked all brake pads, all lights, fork seals, head bearings, and any fasteners I saw. I had the valves checked by Honda right after I bought it at 31, 473 miles, so I didn't check them. I also have a new air cleaner element, but I decided to do that another day. It started getting a tad hot and didn't want to start the plastic removal. Another day.

I used a harbor freight hand cranked vacuum pump. My electric one is MIA, not sure where I put it. Worked very well. I did use a tiny hose clamp to ensure the hose stayed on the bleed screws and a dollop of grease around the bleed screw threads to ensure no leakage. Like I said, worked well and now both front and rear brakes are rock solid, no sponginess, there wasn't much before, but, none now.

The clutch seems way smoother now, again, the clutch fluid was pretty cloudy.

After all the work, I did about 20 mile test ride. Seems to me that I would of had the fans come on before at some of the stops. Might of just been a little cooler today, but, didn't seem like it.

I asked Honda for a quote to do the maintenance, (getting lazy in my old age) and with the air cleaner it would of been about $700.00. My buddy has an 06 Gold Wing (2 Wheeler) and has 31k on it. He didn't do the 24 or 32k maintenance (too expensive). He wanted to learn how to do it, so I said if he helped, I'd teach him. My parts price was $163, includes the extra gallon of coolant and the air cleaner. So I saved $537, and taught a friend how to do the same ... .

I also purchased a cd shop manual for $7.95 (this is probably pirated, it is the Honda Manual in pdf format) from flea bay, but that is a cost for every bike. Kinda liked it being digital, printed the pages I need to teach him and when brake/clutch/cooling/differential fluid got on them, just tossed them.

All in all, good day of maintenance. The bike was in decent shape, now I know it's in good shape. And ready for a possible run to Texas ...

[peteg59]

Good for you Fuzzy as preventative maintenance goes a long way in enjoying many miles of trouble~free, pleasureable riding.

Even better when one can save lots of $$ in dealer/shop labor at the same time

[GoldWingrGreg]

On the Champion Kit is there just the one zirc on the universal joint? I couldn't see any others.

In the center of the shaft, there should be a 2nd zerk. To find it, raise the right rear tire, put it in neutral, and then spin the rear tire by hand. That will then spin the drive shaft. With a flash light, look for the zerk as the drive shaft spins.

Anti freeze ... Honda changed their formula about a 18 mths ago. Up until then, it was green. Their newer formula is blue.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

In the center of the shaft, there should be a 2nd zerk. To find it, raise the right rear tire, put it in neutral, and then spin the rear tire by hand. That will then spin the drive shaft. With a flash light, look for the zerk as the drive shaft spins.

Anti freeze ... Honda changed their formula about a 18 mths ago. Up until then, it was green. Their newer formula is blue.

Thanks for the info ... So that probably was the original antifreeze ... good to know ... is the zirc accessible without moving the shaft?

How does that quote go? "Once more under the trike." ... Well something like that.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Thanks for the info ... So that probably was the original antifreeze ... good to know ... is the zirc accessible without moving the shaft?

How does that quote go? "Once more under the trike." ... Well something like that.

Chances are it is the original anti-freeze. Most GL1800s are poorly maintained. It's been my experience that when buying used, they are always shinny and clean. Most owners will talk about how well cared for they are ... that probably means garaged, new brakes and tires when needed, and frequent oil and filter changes.

Because of the age of your Wing, most likely it has a coolant leak. And the likely hood of a failing rad. cap is pretty high. Also, the reservoir should be removed and the outer lip of the pick-up tube that goes into the tank be inspected for any cracks as well as the ends of the recovery hoses. One end is under the radiator cap and the other connects to the reservoir nipple. Because of age, most likely something there is beginning show cracks.

To check the cooling system for leaks, I believe the coolant testers you barrow from parts stores have the correct adapters. Do 2 tests ... a high and low pressure test. A high is 16-20 lbs and a low is 6-8 lbs. Do each test for 4 hours. Many coolant leaks need to fill a void, spill into another void, before spilling onto the ground ... and a slow leak takes time for all that to happen.

You will find it easiest to spin the drive shaft to where the zerk is in a position that it is easy to attach a grease gun to it. You can try rolling it in N

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Chances are it is the original anti-freeze. Most GL1800s are poorly maintained. It's been my experience that when buying new, they are always shinny and clean. Most owners will talk about how well cared for they are ... that probably means garaged, new brakes and tires when needed, and frequent oil and filter changes.

Because of the age of your Wing, most likely it has a coolant leak. And the likely hood of a failing rad. cap is pretty high. Also, the reservoir should be removed and the outer lip of the pick-up tube that goes into the tank be inspected for any cracks as well as the ends of the recovery hoses. One end is under the radiator cap and the other connects to the reservoir nipple. Because of age, most likely something there is beginning show cracks.

To check the cooling system for leaks, I believe the coolant testers you barrow from parts stores have the correct adapters. Do 2 tests ... a high and low pressure test. A high is 16-20 lbs and a low is 6-8 lbs. Do each test for 4 hours. Many coolant leaks need to fill a void, spill into another void, before spilling onto the ground ... and a slow leak takes time for all that to happen.

You will find it easiest to spin the drive shaft to where the zerk is in a position that it is easy to attach a grease gun to it. You can try rolling it in N

I've put nearly 1k miles on the trike since buying it, there was no coolant loss in the tank, and when I opened the radiator cap, the level was full. I have a coolant system tester, just didn't think I needed to test it since the level has been rock solid. After putting fresh coolant in the trike, I put the old stuff back in the quart jugs it came in. Both times I did that, I filled 3 and almost the forth. I think the coolant system is sound, but if I have the right adapter I will test it.

So how do I rock the trike in N with the right wheel up??? Is it like a car differential where the right wheel will spin and the left won't? Maybe put both up on jack stands? I'm a little confused. That's not an unusual state for me. After all, I'm an old dog ... and learning new tricks (working on trikes) is not a natural condition.

Really appreciate the info ... even if I am a little slow.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Okay, so I did a coolant system pressure check. Yesterday I did 4 hours at 16#. Held rock solid for almost 6 hours. Forgot I was doing it ... LOL ... Dang I'm getting old.

This morning I did a lower pressure test at 6#. Again, set it up at 8 am and it was still solid at noon.

My conclusion, coolant system is solid.

While doing the low pressure check, I jacked the rear up again and found the other zirc. Wasn't hidden at all, just covered in old grease and dirt. Cleaned it all up, removed it and replaced it with a new one. Greased it, so that is done.

Forgot ro post the picture of the rear end oil that I drained out. The rear differential oil, the coolant and the clutch fluid were the only things that where noticeably bad. The rear oil was really bad. Looked like maybe some condensation or water somehow got in it and it emulsified. here's the pic.



Also forgot to mention how i filled it. I made a rig with 3/8" new fuel line. One end has a piece of hard plastic tubing heated and bent to like 120*. Acts like a hook to keep it in the differential, The other end I hosed clamped to the Quart bottle of Gear Oil. Hose is long enough to get out past the rear of the trike and i hook it to the luggage rack with a bungie cord. Once I start it filling I poke a hole in the bottom (which is up) so it doesn't get vacuum blocked. Takes awhile to gravity fill, but I can go get a cup of coffee while it's doing it.

New fluid looks almost like honey.

All in all, glad I decided to do the maintenance, now I known all fluids are right and when they where last done. Next is to tackle the air cleaner, might take it to Honda for that and the steering head bearing. I really hate removing all the plastic. Reminds me of the BMW days and the Tupperware Parties.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Okay ... So I had this new air cleaner just sitting around the garage (I bought it when I bought the oil, brake fluid, coolant and filter). It was kinda driving me crazy that it wasn't IN the trike.

So. I got to work and 3 hours later, voila, new air cleaner.

Old Air Cleaner, Glad I did the swap.



These are the screws that hold the front of the "tank cover" to the dash. Good example of three screws with in 6-8" of each other in a line, that have different threads and different shoulders.



You know, it really wasn't as bad as I remember. Took only 3 hours start to finish and I had to take the ecm panel off twice (forgot to put the air intakes back on the air cleaner box .. wasn't a happy camper ... had to ask God for some patience).

If you have any mechanical ability at all, I recommend you do this. There are tons of videos on the internet that show you exactly what to do. That coupled with your shop manual (don't start any job without it) this really isn't that bad a job to do. Take your time and lots of pics of how things come apart. Especially the electrical connectors. Good luck and have fun.

[GoldWingrGreg]

That's a filthy filter. At 12k, it should have that same dark pattern, but one has to look at it from a side angle to begin to see a shade of that same pattern. Looking straight on and sometimes the shade cannot be seen. It's probably the original one. Honda changed the filter color from green to red about 4 years ago.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

It's probably the original one. Honda changed the filter color from green to red about 4 years ago.

That was my guess too ... I really meant to take some pics as I went along, but I forgot ... this getting old thing is tough.

[FuzzyWuzHe]

So today I swapped plugs and drained the crank case breather tube. I saved the easiest for last.

Here's what came out of the crank case breather drain. A little water and a little oil it looks like. Guessing this hasn't been done before either.



Here's the plugs from the left bank. They are front to back .. Left to right.



Here's the plugs from the right bank. They are front to back .. Left to right.



Plugs looked pretty good, but all where worn, but only two where outside the gap spec and only by 0.002". Not bad, they all had the kind of chocolate brown color we hope to see.

Hopefully someone can tell me why there are little rubber plugs in a lot of the wing allens. I'm guessing they keep moister out of the holes, but that's a guess. Took me longer to get those back into the 10 allens in the head covers than it did to swap plugs ... but I was a good boy and got them back in. Maybe someone can school me on the fast way to get them out and back in.

While putting away my tools, it occurred to me that maybe someone maybe could benefit from seeing what I have on the trike for tools and how I got there.

I got the idea from the BMW riders when I had my K1200LT. Their idea was, when working on your bike, use the same tools you take on a trip. If you run into a tool that you need that isn't in your bag, evaluate if the repair/maintenance you are doing/need the tool for is something your likely to do along side the road. LOL ... at one point, I was carrying a drive belt for my 11 Ultra, until I snapped one and had to replace it, I quickly figured that wasn't a repair I'd do along side the road ... that's what road side assistance is for ..

Anyway ... here is my bag.



There are 5 bank bags.

They are numbered, you can see bag 4 in the pic.

Bag 1 has SAE

Bag 2 has Metric

Bag 3 has Torx

Bag 4 has Misc, needle nose, pliers, crescent, screw drivers, etc.

The blue bag has specialty tools, spark plug wrench, oil filter wrench, folding funnel, wire ties, electrical tape. a thin roll of duct tape, etc.

Not sure I need SAE with the wing or the Torx, but, I'll carry them for awhile ... ... maybe Greg will chime in about that.

That bag has saved many a buddy on the road. My last group ride a buddy dropped, while standing next to it, his Verses (-5sp), and snapped off the left peg. We took the attached part off, one of the guys drove both pieces to a town, found a welder and got it "fixed". Not pretty, but functional. We continued on the ride. Just one example. Might keep them all just for other riders.

I also carry a can of contact cleaner. I took the rags out so you can see the bags. The reason for the bank bags was because you can lay two of them in the bottom of a Harley saddlebag. Didn't take up a bunch of room. With the two Fat Bottom Girls, Lots of trunk space, so I put them in an old Dewalt tool bag for easy carry.

Every job I did in this thread was done with my on the road bags ... with the exception of the grease gun and oil catch pans. Don't carry a grease gun, if needed, they are relatively cheap and readily available. Doubt I would do oil changes on the road, if I needed to drain it for some reason, kitchen sink pans work okay and most auto parts stores will take the waste.

All in all, I had a great time re-familiarizing myself with the wing maintenance and learning the the trike part maintenance.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Yes ... the hex plugs in the valve/spark-plug covers are to keep moisture out. If they're missing rust will begin. I use the green handle picks to remove and reinstall them. It is by far my most popular tool, so much so, as the picture shows, I have 2 of them and even at that am always looking for one. To reinstall, it is easiest to do it after the covers get hot.

Your spark plugs should be white and clean, as in running lean. However, once they get above their life expectancy (16,000 miles), what you are looking at may or may not be normal. Hopefully the color is consistent among them all. What is important is what they look like at 16k. Once they get above that, they still might be white, or blackish, or brownish ... who can predict once they've lived to long.

At this point, because the mileage on them is not known, check them in 2,000 miles and see what they look like. If they say "Made in Japan" they came from Honda ... either new from the factory, or if replaced after they came in a Honda package.

Yes ... it looks like the prior owner never checked the breather hose. When you look at the maintenance schedule in the Owner's Manual and see all those systems that need checked, without exception all should be done. Since most DYI are parts replacers, usually parts are replaced ... plugs, air filter, oil and filter, brake, clutch, anti-freeze, and rear end fluid ... but their skill sets usually end there.

As for your tools ... all I can say is wow. My goal is to carry none. However, I do carry and have used tire repair stuff. I carry the Honda tool pouch with a couple of add'l tools thrown in. Below could easily represent and example. I would probably carry only those additional tools if going on a solo 14,000 mile trip. If you look at those tools, it has more to do with their usability then anything else. In some form or another, other then the picks, they are included in Honda's tool pouch.

In 2012, GL1800's quit coming with a tool bag. Doing something like that is a statement regarding reliability. After all, do cars come with tool kit ???

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Nice tip about getting the covers warm before installing the rubber plugs ... I used a jeweler's screw driver and it worked okay and was in the bag ... LOL

The tire repair stuff is in the blue bag .. LOL ... plugging kit and tools. I carry a mini compressor in my foul weather bag, just incase. That bag has electric and rain gear.

Geese ... I am getting old ... first time i went to Sturgis (1975), I had one pair of jeans, one T shirt, one pair of socks, a jacket, gloves and a half helmet. I wore a pair of jeans, t-shirt pair of socks boots. No tools. Of course ... on a 1965 sporty with a hardtail frame and 16 over springer, there wasn't room for much. 200 miles a day was about tops, after that when you went to the bathroom, there was blood. I took 30 days leave from the Navy and did 1.5 weeks to there from Norfolk and 1.5 weeks back. Don't remember much about the week in between. Ah...those were the days ...

[FuzzyWuzHe]

So yesterday I did a 200 mile shakedown.

Fill halfway and when i got back. 37.88 mpg going, 38.23 mph coming, average - 38.12 - not bad.

It was warm, 94* but not hot. Fans never came on. Today I took a ride to the dealer to get some of the little rubber plugs you put in the valve cover screws, missing one. Temp was 102*. 17 miles round trip in stop and go, fans never came on. Was getting worried, so left it run in the garage for a few. Pretty hot in there. Fans came on after a minute or two and cycled. All is well there.

Trike idles much smoother not @ ~700 rpm. Used to cycle between 600 and 1100.

The most interesting thing is I feel good that the trike will now get me anywhere I want to go.

[GoldWingrGreg]

Today I took a ride to the dealer to get some of the little rubber plugs you put in the valve cover screws, missing one.

I stock at least a full set of 16; did the dealer have at least 1 ???

Them little suckers are pricy ... I'll bet you're glad you weren't buying 16 of them for $60.80 ???

[FuzzyWuzHe]

I stock at least a full set of 16; did the dealer have at least 1 ???

Them little suckers are pricy ... I'll bet you're glad you weren't buying 16 of them for $60.80 ???

Dealer had none, $4 a pop, I ordered 3. Figured I'd loose any that I didn't need. I thought about using the rubber that hold screens in the frame ... cut a piece and put it in ... but ... all I could find was grey. LOL

[Red Wing One]

Hey Fuzzy, you said you were doing the 32K maintenance but I didn't see a Valve Clearance Check. Was that done?.....