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Thread: Regulator Question.

  1. #1
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    Default Regulator Question.

    Not on a Trike so I posted in General. 2012 Flh Police replaced Voltage regulator in June. Regulator is unknown origin purchased on Ebay , Just failed today. I have service manual and have checked Alternator output and all wiring per manual steps. My question is has anyone experienced any problems with their Trike or Bike that were causing multiple regulator failures or should I just chalk this up as a learning experience and don't buy cheap parts. New Harley Regulator ordered online and on the way.

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    . Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV. 2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

    3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

    4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).



    • AC Output Check:




    1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
    2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
    3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
    4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
    5. Generic Specs:




    • 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
    • 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
    • 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm




    • Stator Resistance Check:




    1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
    2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
    3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
    4. Generic Specs:




    • 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
    • 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
    • 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms




    • Stator IB test or Ground Check:




    1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
    2. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
    3. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
    4. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.


    5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.



    • Identifying Wires:




    1. Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
    2. AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
    3. Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.




    • Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).




    • Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.




    1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
    2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
    3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
    4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
    5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
    6. The reading should be Infinite.
    7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
    8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
    9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
    10. The reading should be Infinite.
    11. Note: Below is a table to show the readings:


    Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
    AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
    AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
    Battery charge lead AC output 1
    Battery charge lead AC output 2
    Ground AC output 1 Voltage
    Ground AC output 2 Voltage
    AC output 1 Ground
    AC output 2 Ground

    Check this out

    Always start with a fully charged battery

    Open up your derby cover and have a smell

    If your fluid is dark and smells burned, your stator is going south

    A lot of regulators ( off shore manufactured) do not stand up very good IMO
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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    Thank You for the reminder about the Battery. Yes it is in good condition , I replaced it in June as well since it was the original battery. It was giving signs of impending failure before the regulator failed. Always kept on a smart trickle charger. Road bike yesterday gauge indicated charging fine. Riding today for errands before work and gauge only showing battery voltage.

    Checked all the steps in the manual that are the same as your listed ones. I certainly hope that new Harley regulator is the end of My issue and that it too does not fail in a short period.
    2016 Tri Glide and 2012 FLHTP

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ctdair View Post
    Not on a Trike so I posted in General. 2012 Flh Police replaced Voltage regulator in June. Regulator is unknown origin purchased on Ebay , Just failed today. I have service manual and have checked Alternator output and all wiring per manual steps. My question is has anyone experienced any problems with their Trike or Bike that were causing multiple regulator failures or should I just chalk this up as a learning experience and don't buy cheap parts. New Harley Regulator ordered online and on the way.
    As highlighted in red.........
    Sometimes a Cigar is Just a Cigar.....
    2019 Tri-Glide.......

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    Another thing is never buy used parts, especially electrical stuff. Bite the bullet and buy new.
    Retired trike builder
    America's first lady trike builder.

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    Default

    Road bike yesterday gauge indicated charging fine. Riding today for errands before work and gauge only showing battery voltage.

    This could be a problem, check across the battery with a volt meter and compare

    Harley gauges are not my liking

    If you are only showing battery voltage the chances are good your regulator is NOT working

    Make sure you have good clean and tight connections, make sure you have GOOD grounds including the regulator, if need be scrape a bit of paint off the mount and use grounding washers as needed

    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

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