Stallion Overheating

[deanone98]

Has anyone had any issues with their Stallion overheating? I put a couple hunddred miles on mine today coming back from a Rally and noticed the heat gauge was on hot. Water is good, fuse is good and no plastic is caught up in the fan. I am thinking that it may be the relay switch? I can pull over and let it kool for 30 min and then on my way again pulling my trailer and after 10 miles on the freeway it heats up again. Any suggestions? Of course this happens on a Sunday with no one open to do any consulting with.

[Gorilla]

You need to check to see if the fuse is blown. Look in the manual and I believe you need to look for the fuse labled Climate Control or something like that. If the fuse is only a 10a change it "This was directed by the factory when I had the problem" to 30. If still not the issue on the right side there is a cooling pipe running along the frame. Just in front of the rear tire is a sensor. With the ignition on if you take the wire from the sensor when you ground it the fan should come on. There also is a relay that is under the seat tied to the cross piece. There are 3 of them one of them (Sorry I do not know which is in the fan circuit also. That about covers what I know.

[tomg]

Call Nick at TMS and verify the fuse update, but more likely it is the relay on the return water line on the right side. See if your fan with come on when you trun on the a/c. If it does, you know the relay is bad. Not hard to change, but you will need more antifreeze mix as you will drain about a gallon when the replay switch comes out.

Tomg

[Mattel]

If you were riding in the rain you just need the update. Call TBMS. It is an easy fix. Mine did the same thing. Good as new now!

[deanone98]

Thanks for your replies on this matter, but so far nothing has helped. My auth. dealer has been in contact with TBMS and they are offering different solutions, but nothing has worked thus far. It has been alot of telephone tag and still no fixes. I do however have faith that they will be able to fix it.

[Gorilla]

Thanks for your replies on this matter, but so far nothing has helped. My auth. dealer has been in contact with TBMS and they are offering different solutions, but nothing has worked thus far. It has been alot of telephone tag and still no fixes. I do however have faith that they will be able to fix it.

Who is your dealer?

[deanone98]

Bikes to Trikes in the Pensacola area. Bike was fixed today and it was a relay switch.

[Stallionshawn]

Do we know the part number for this relay?

Thanks.

[THEREALTRIKKY]

I figured I would chime in on this for a bit of "clairification" The "sensor" mounted in the cooling line just forward of the rear tire is the engine temperature sensor; when the coolant temp reaches the determined temperature, the switch grounds activating the fan.

In addition, the relays under the seat attached near the backrest bracket are ONLY if you have the old style battery junction box (rectangular under the air cleaner). The newer battery junction box (smaller more square design) has these relays inside it instead of under the seat.

I hope this helps at least somewhat!!

[Stallionshawn]

I need the part number for the temperature SWITCH, not relay.

This is the in-line sensor switch that the blue wire connects to.

Thanks.

[Stallionshawn]

Rick is sending me a new sensor switch.

Thanks for the input.

[Stallionshawn]

Rick is sending me a new sensor switch.

Thanks for the input.

[deanone98]

I thought that my relay switch was replaced on my 2010 and had the impression that it was located under the hood.

[Stallionshawn]

The RELAY which is in the Power Distribution box under the hood is different than the TEMPERATURE SENSOR SWITCH which is located in from of the right rear wheel on the angled coolant tube. It has a blue wire going to it. When the water temp hits 200 degrees, this switch closes and turns on the cooling fan. When it cools down, the switch opens and shuts off the fan. The part is made by Vintage Air. TMS has them, and they are also available Old Air Products - Home of the HURRICANE Heat, Cool, & Defrost A/C System - Switch, Temp Sensor for $22.95. I'm going to keep a spare because this switch has been a problem for many Stallion owners.

[silverdevil]

if you want to test the fan to see if it works just run a ground wire to the top of the switch described in message above. with the key on the fan should run.<br />
another thing you can do is run a wire from the above connection to a switch you can get to when driving, if the stallion starts over heating flip the switch and if it now cools back down the above switch in the water line went bad, and with the ground wire thru a switch you can take your time fixing the problem cause you can turn the fan on and off.

[StallionTech]

The Engine Coolant Temperature switch that can also be found at your local Auto Parts Store. The switch is known for failing prematurely if over-torqued. (Simply install thread tape on it, and snug it up. DO NOT OVER-TORQUE! ) The Stallion is powered by a 2.3L Ford engine, so therefore the replacement sensor is based off of the OEM specs (which is 180 Degrees). Simply take yours out and go match one up at the store that has the same specs and the same threads. If you are in the middle of a trip, simply take the blue wire that is connected to it, and ground it out. This will manually turn your cooling (radiator) fan on. The fan will now be controlled by the ignition switch, so it will stay on as long as the key is on. Like said in previous posts, the fan will also run while the A/C is on.

If your fan fails to run regardless, then suspect faulty Cooling Fan Relay (Inside Engine Bay on newer models, by Backrest Seat support located under the seat on older models), Fan problems, or Wiring Issue. I have seen all of these issues many times, although Sensor located in front of tire was main cause more frequently than others. On newer bikes, there was a Wiring Harness upgrade, and there were minor problems with under-rated fuse being used for Cooling Fan. Originally it was a 20A, then updated to a 30A, which corrected the problem.

[Markie]

An intersting sidebar to the fuse (#27, "Climate Control") mentioned earlier in this thread. My wife took our Stallion to Seattle this weekend (6/23/12); a 200+ mile trip. Weather through Snoqualmie Pass was rainy. I received a call from her Saturday afternoon around 3 PM or so stating that she could not get the trike into gear; fortunately, when we bought the trike the dealer showed us the override button on the mechanism up under the hood & I reminded her where that button was & she got goping again. At this point she was ~ 30 miles from Seattle. Two hours later she calls again & states the trike has overheated. So I hop into the truck & drive 4 hours to see what was the issue.

To make a long story short I noted the radiator fan was not kicking on & no control of the heat/air. That is when I realized this thread & learned about fuse #27. Opened the fusebox early this morning and, sure enough, the 10A fuse was blown.

Replaced fuse & now not only does the heat/air & radiator fans work but the shift lever unlocks when the brake pedal is depressed.

So for those who have issues with the shift lever not unlocking when depressing the brake pedal might wish to check fuse #27.

[Stallionshawn]

Turning on the AC will also turn on the cooling fan in a pinch. Even with the extra load, the Stallion cools right down.

[Gorilla]

also the factory says to replace that fuse with a 30 amp.

[trikervet]

My cooling fan for the engine has failed. It is not the sensor located on the water line inboard of the right tire. I have had that one fail in the past and know how to check it. It is not fuse #27 under the seat. Now I am zeroing in on the 3 relays under the seat. I have only just located the relays, haven't done any troubleshooting, but there isn't much left in the system. If anybody could point me in the right direction on which one of these relays controls the cooling fan, I would appreciate it. Also, what do the other two relays control? Thanks guys.