Question for Lee Mann, drive axle replacement parts?

Repair of my Valkyrie Trike

Honda 1999 Valkyrie Interstate with a 2002 Lehman Predator Kit, solid axle, shaft drive, drum brakes.

I have been working over the winter months restoring my 1999 Valkyrie Trike. 10 years ago (2009), the engine 1520cc, in my Valkyrie Trike suffered a hydro-lock fuel cylinder problem, (common Valkyrie problem) a fuel leak into one or more cylinders, which when I attempted to start the engine, the starter motor broke off a tooth on the intermediate gear between the starter and the starter/clutch gear. I have never done any internal engine work and now I had to remove the 260-pound engine to repair the broken gear. In 2009 an independent Honda mechanic wanted $2000 plus parts to repair the engine and he would only work on it when he had free time. He said 3 to 6 months to fix it. It was riding season, so I parked the Valkyrie and purchased a new left-over 2008 Goldwing (level 3) with a 2009 Motor Trike kit.



Now 10 years later I got out the Honda shop manual, put the Valkyrie on my trike lift and started to remove the engine. I drained the antifreeze and oil, I then removed the seat, fuel tank, air box, radiator pods, radiator hoses, radiator, thermostat, battery, exhaust, starter, alternator, spark plug wires, clutch line, throttle cables, choke cable, and drive shaft. Next, I remove the engine (260 Lbs.), 6 carbonators, the clutch case, then the clutch. Next came the back-engine case and now I could see the broken gear. I was told that I had to replace the gears on each side of the broken gear, because they could have been damaged by the broken gear. To remove the gears on each side of the broken gear, I had to grind out the 3 locking nuts that were staked into the 3 different shafts that held each gear in place. To work on the engine, I needed to purchase all the special Honda tools listed in the shop manual. Oh, I did find the broken tooth in the bottom of the engine case.

Time to get the new engine parts and start replacing the 3 gears. New parts were clutch gear, intermediate gear, starter gear, shaft lock nuts, seals and gaskets. After I replaced the gears and torqued the lock nuts, I reassembled the engine and then installed it and reassembled everything that I had to remove to get the engine out.

Next, I had to fix the cause of the hydro-lock problem. I disassembled and rebuilt all 6 carburetors (every part that could be replaced including the fuel rails), replaced (all new parts) radiator hoses, thermostat, all vacuum hoses, fuel line, spark plugs, added a fuel filter and an electric fuel shutoff valve, a K&N air filter, vacuum fuel petcock, cleaned the rust and dirt from inside the fuel tank and seal coated the inside of the fuel tank, then I removed the Smog System Piping and installed the 6 rebuilt carburetors.

I installed all new stainless-steel braided brake lines and clutch line, added dot 4 brake fluid, new antifreeze, oil & filter, drained and filled the rear differential fluid, adjusted the rear drum brakes, rebuilt the front brake calipers, replaced the front disk brake pads. Cleaned the headlight/turn signal switches, added a USB charge port, replaced the battery, added a second fuse block, a second battery in the trunk with an automatic battery isolator, 3 led light kits (276 leds total), and added some new safety chrome.

I started the engine and had to balance (sync) the 6 carburetors. It’s winter here in Pittsburgh and could only get the carburetors close to where they needed to be balanced. Will finish this in the spring when it gets warm.

I still have to put the rear wheels on and clean and polish everything. The best part is that the engine started and runs.



Bike on my lift, jacked up and engine removed.

With what I replaced I should have "almost" a new bike.

Greg