Battery voltage

[lvsloan1]

I was needing some input on what I think is a problem w/ my battery voltage. We ride a 1990 Venture Royale w/ a Motortrike conversion & it seems that the longer we ride, the less my voltage meter registers above 12 volts. Plus ANYTIME I use the brakes, the voltage drops down to or under 12 volts on the meter. If we ride say, 100 or more miles & shut off the engine, the starter labors to crank it & may even click like the battery is too low to start it. I can wait about 10 minutes & the starter then cranks the engine fine. When I put my battery tender on it overnight, the voltage is perfect the next day until we go about 100 miles or more. I've tested my stator output & the voltage difference @ the battery before & after starting but everything in the charging system is as should be. WONDER IF I HAVE A FAULTY BATTERY AS I HAVE NO WAY OF PUTTING A LOAD TEST ON IT but my brake lights sure do pull the voltage down. Thanks for any replies.

[John Luciano]

Sounds like a voltage regulator or the Stator/ alternator. While the bike is running get a VOM meter set to DCVolts. Touch red to pos and black to neg, have someone rev the bike to 3,000 Rpm see if it goes up to 13 volts or higher. If it does, the next thing to do is go to a auto parts store and have the battery load tested...

[lvsloan1]

Thanks John, I appreciate your help. I have already done this & @ 3000 RPM charge to battery registers little over 13.3 volts. The stator output w/ engine revved registered about 41 VAC. Have ordered a new battery & if the problem still exists I'll re-post about it. Again, THANKS!

[bongobobny]

Hopefully you ordered a good AGM battery like the DEKA. They are a lot stronger battery.

The reason your voltage drops with the brakes is that the brakes also trigger your electric anti dive solenoids those solenoids will draw 4 - 5 amps as long as the brakes are applied. Some people have disconnected their anti dives after installing new progressive springs. I personally like the anti dives but that's just my opinion.

You can improve your charging system with a Ricks Motorsports high output stator and a better Rectifier/Regulator. There are several decent R/R's out there...

EDIT: I notice you are in Texas. The downside of higher output stators is they generate more heat, and in a hotter area like TX they may not last as long...

[lvsloan1]

Thank you Bongobobny! I'll check the new stator & rectifier out from Rick's. I had forgot about the anti- dive when I apply the brakes. Why can't I just unhook the anti - dive & leave the factory air shocks on front? I can't remember what brand the new battery is but it is a maintenance free high crank amps for my model of Yamaha but it is not a gell cell. Have a blessed day & I am looking forward to hearing from you again. BTW, I'm still hoping for someone to reply to my thread about removing the 2 spring shocks on rear & just use the air shocks instead of having all 4 shocks. It rides too stiff for my wife like it is.

[lvsloan1]

Never mind about the rear suspension question. A Motortrike dealer has just contacted me about this matter & explained that all trikes have the progressive shocks in front & air shocks in rear of the differential. Seems my problem of rough riding may be due to the lateral bars, etc. not being properly adjusted to the correct length PLUS our trike hasn't been raked so it's not as long as the Goldwing that was raked. Am going to have to take it to him for re-adjustment on everything. THANKS EVERYONE WHO HELPED ON TRIKE FORUM! YA'LL ARE THE GREATEST!

[bongobobny]

Thank you Bongobobny! I'll check the new stator & rectifier out from Rick's. I had forgot about the anti- dive when I apply the brakes. Why can't I just unhook the anti - dive & leave the factory air shocks on front? I can't remember what brand the new battery is but it is a maintenance free high crank amps for my model of Yamaha but it is not a gell cell. Have a blessed day & I am looking forward to hearing from you again. BTW, I'm still hoping for someone to reply to my thread about removing the 2 spring shocks on rear & just use the air shocks instead of having all 4 shocks. It rides too stiff for my wife like it is.

Yes, you could try unplugging them by either the connectors to the solenoids or pull the relay. Ride it for a while and see how much of a difference it makes. I personally like the anti dives and wish the 2nd gen RSV's had them but that's personal preference. Replacing the stock front springs with progressives does make a difference with bottoming out but don't quite have the same effect as the anti dives do with harder stopping.

I wouldn't be too concerned with the current draw, it is only when you have your brakes applied. After all they were installed in every Venture made from '86 to '93 and there never was an issue with them. Assuming 6 amp draw for 3 minutes equates to 0.3 amp hours! If that is going to kill your battery then Houston, we have as problem!

A good site for Venture specific information is venturerider.org and is very active. Check us out for free, $12 per year to join and well worth it!!!

[lvsloan1]

After some thought I decided not to worry about the current draw when I apply the brakes now that I know the reason. I have replaced the battery & rechecked the voltage going to it. It shows 13 volts w/ engine off & after running the engine about 2 minutes will slowly go up to 14 volts. Now I am trying to find out why my info LCD center isn't working. Since I put the new battery on it the computer center LCD display won't show when I turn the ign on. If I quickly turn the key on the LCD display will show for less than a second then fade off. Thank you Bongobobny so much for ALL your help. If you know anyone that has had this same problem w/ the LCD display not working, let me know.

[bongobobny]

Odd it would occur with a new battery, but the most likely probable cause is the CMU needs to be removed and the connector solder joints on the PC board need resoldering. After over 20 years the solder deteriorates and you get all sorts of strange problems...

[lvsloan1]

Hey Bongobobny, glad to hear from you once again. I thought it was kind of odd about the CMU also since it happened all of a sudden. When I first turn on the ignition the monitor LCD comes on for just a second but then slowly fades away completely. This happens everytime I first turn on the ign quickly. I may have caused the problem however because right before I noticed the CMU wasn't working, I was trying to hook up my compressor to work while the bike was going down the road instead of only in "ACC". I know thre owner's manual says not to air the shocks w/ any weight on the bike but since it was triked, we wanted to be able to monitor the air pressure while riding like the Goldwings. I blew the ACC tube type fuse when I dropped the wire I was running to the class monitor. I need to run a ign wire to the class fuse to do this right but can't find the fuse. The shop manual shows it to be under the too cover on the battery but I've checked all the fuses there & none are labeled "class" fuse. Anyway, I ordered another complete dash unit on Ebay that has the CMU in it & will replace it when it comes in. Again thanks! I enjoy visiting w/ you as I am going to eventually get this trike on excellent condition.

[bongobobny]

The wife and I may be in Texas this winter (in the cage) visiting fellow verturerider.org members. Maybe we can have lunch or something some day. We will be mostly in the Houston area but will be all over as well...

[lvsloan1]

That's cool Bongobobny. I registered w/ the Ventureriders.org but my free trial expired & I didn't have the money to join at the time. We live about 30 miles from the New Mexico boarder so it is still quite a way from Houston. Thanks for your valuable help & many replies. God bless & have an awesome day!