2011 Tri Glide clutch problem

[fordman55]

I purchased a new 2011 Tri Glide just two weeks ago. I did not like the stock handlebars so I decided to have them changed. The harley parts catalog stated that I could install 2" pullback bars that will lift the bars and move them closer. The bars are part # 56176-08 they call for longer brakelines and clutch cable. I had all this work completed at my local HD dealer $755.00. When I picked up the bike and started home I noticed the problem. The clutch will not disengage. By not releasing, the trans will not go into neutral, the bike wants to go forward and to stop it I had to hold the front brake. In order to get home I had to shut off the motor when I approached a traffic light, shift to neutral, restart the bike, shift to low gear, then go. I had the bike picked up the next day and taken back to the dealership. Almost one later they can't figure out what is wrong. Did I make a mistake or what. I now have over $35,000 in this bike and it's been at the dealership longer than in my garage. Has anyone had the same problem.

[B.Bob]

Sounds like you need a new Dealer. I had 16" apes installed on mine and had no problems. Maybe they tried to reuse the stock clutch cable making it a little short?

[tfdeputydawg]

I will not comment on how much you were overcharged for the cost of and installation of the items you mentioned
1. I would never darken the door of that place again!
2. It sounds like a simple adjustment of the cable is in order(if they did install the correct length cable.)
3. There should be a rubber cover that looks like an "accordion" on the clutch cable in front of the motor. Sliding this cover down will expose the adjust mechanism for the cable.
1st-is there any free play in the clutch lever at all? If not-loosen the lock nut on the adjuster and turn the adjuster until you have a small amount of free play in the clutch lever.
If this does not correct the situation-then you will have to remove the clutch cover on the primary cover to adjust the clutch there.
Someone take over here for I can not remember how much to back the adjusting screw up once you have turn it in til it "bottoms" out!

[Gorilla]

I agree with the above statements. They may have not replaced the clutch cable. A quick check would be to turn the wheel all the way left and see if there is some improvement. Turning the wheel left takes all the pull off the cable. Because it is not adjusted correctly you may not notice a change. I would demand that they make it right and if they give you greef request the district manager. They used all approved HD parts and the dealer did the work, no reason why they should not figure out what they screwed up. That modification is very straight forward, I've done it twice myself.

By the way welcome aboard.

[fordman55]

I think they may have found the problem. The clutch cable was changed, using the cable the parts catalog called for. It was a "Diamondback Braided Cable", All adjustments were made according to the manual but after the bike got hot the adjustment changed. The service manager called me yesterday and told me that after taking the bike for another road test and seeing the same problem he removed the rubber boot from the adjuster. Here is what he found. At the top of the adjuster where the outer braided part of the cable met the adjusted the braiding of the cable was coming apart and was crushing down. He said that if the braiding is allowed to smash down it will cause the cable to go out of adjustment. I wanted to see it for myself so I went to the dealership, sure enough the braiding at the adjuster was smashed down causing a large buldge in the braiding that caused the cable to become shorter and when the clutch is pulled in to disengage there was less pull on the clutch so it will not disengage properly. There is a factory rep coming Monday to look at it. I think a better quality cable will solve the problem. I hope. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks for your responses

[tfdeputydawg]

1. Ask what would be the cause of this "crushing down" as they call it.
a. Never heard of this terminology in several years of wrenching on bikes
b. If it is such as obvious defect-why would any decent mechanic install it, in the first place
2. Also, I have never heard of a company that would pay for travel expenses of sending a rep to check out a "defective" cable
But then, nobody has ever accused me on knowing that much about wrenching anywhy:innocent:
Watch out they don't say the "rep" decided you had to have been "messing" w/it and caused the damage
Sorry to be so negative but their explanation and having to wait on a rep just "smells" to me.

[Oldmsocko]

I agree with the above statements. They may have not replaced the clutch cable. A quick check would be to turn the wheel all the way left and see if there is some improvement. Turning the wheel left takes all the pull off the cable. Because it is not adjusted correctly you may not notice a change. I would demand that they make it right and if they give you greef request the district manager. They used all approved HD parts and the dealer did the work, no reason why they should not figure out what they screwed up. That modification is very straight forward, I've done it twice myself.

By the way welcome aboard.

I couldn't agree with you more. Had that done to my TG with no issues.

[Gorilla]

sounds like a defective part to me. I have the same type cable on my bike/trike for 4 years without any issue. Why the need for the rep. Put a good cable on it get on down the road. They can show the rep the defective cable anytime.

[screwball]

That cable had to be defective. The external braiding on those cables are cosmetic only. The cable should have maintained it length despite the bride. My local dealer quoted me around $650 for Cycle Shack 12" apes, all necessary cables, and installation. Paul Yaffee wanted over $800 for his 'Monkey Bars', cables and installation. Changing the bars on a Trike (E-Glide) isn't the easies thing to do if you aren't a great wrencher.

[fordman55]

The rep is going to be in the area anyway. My dealer call and explained the problem and he wanted to look at the cable while he was in the area. I saw the problem for myself. If you remove the rubber boot over the adjuster and pull the clutch in and watch the cable you can see the braiding on the upper section of the braiding at the adjuster mushroom out. The tech thinks that the mushrooming of the braiding is allowing the cable to become slack and not allowing the clutch to disengage fully. Makes some sense to me. Another strange thing is that the problem gets worse as the motor heats up. The bad cable is a harley number out of thier catalog. He did order another cable it should be in on monday. Hope that fixes the problem. I hate having a brand new bike and not be able to ride it.