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will be building my own frame with goldwing front end----what rake & trail would u try to shoot for ? Will be SBC Th350 and solid axle diff not IRS , planning on the radiator,battery etc and behind the diff...... Have built a few trikes before & guess I got lucky with whatever angles I welded up the necks cause they both handled well, but i never checked angles that I recall :)
[QUOTE=bear1953;878781]will be building my own frame with goldwing front end----what rake & trail would u try to shoot for ? Will be SBC Th350 and solid axle diff not IRS , planning on the radiator,battery etc and behind the diff...... Have built a few trikes before & guess I got lucky with whatever angles I welded up the necks cause they both handled well, but i never checked angles that I recall :)[/QUOTE]
I FIND 1.5 - 2.5 inches of trail works for me
around 30 - 35 degree rake.... what ever donor frame is
would use NOTHING but a leading link for the front
Most people would pass these by on looks alone. But the real beauty of these is performance. Guys with trikes keep looking for that elusive tire that sticks in corners and does not skip. Well it's not the tire it's it's the binding of the fork sliders. Not a problem with leading links. I don't see any front stock front end I would trust with that much weight.
[QUOTE=Sidecarbill;878929]Most people would pass these by on looks alone. But the real beauty of these is performance. Guys with trikes keep looking for that elusive tire that sticks in corners and does not skip. Well it's not the tire it's it's the binding of the fork sliders. Not a problem with leading links. I don't see any front stock front end I would trust with that much weight.[/QUOTE]
i think most guys with trike that are having "skip" problems dont have enough weight on the front end and if the forks are binding the rake is probably way too much.. both typical of rear engine trikes like the vw based ones!
i put together a bunch of side car rigs and trikes (all front engine / mc based trikes) out of the bunch i have only build 2 leading links, they are great in my opinion, especially for real heavy trikes, but usually cost over $2200 counting my time and mat. all the rest i have use raked trees with tele forks. which generally handle well but not as adjustable a s the LL,,, i have NEVER had any issues with tires wanting to skip
Well I had a 650 Yamaha motocross type sidecar rig with the platform for the rider we called the monkey. With raked telescopics it wouldn't turn when I gassed it. That's when I was told leading links were the answer. I could blast a turn full throttle with them.all things are different for others just sayin.
While I know the leading link is the "bomb" I cannot make myself go that route its just too ducking fugly (call me dumb if u wish) but the previous trikes I built did not have problems with the weight on tube forks but I am DUMB for never measuring rake or trail on them for future reference. I grew up in the height of the chopper scene in the 70s and guess I have the "cool look" ingrained into my building -----
BUT, I am planning on moving large items of weight to over or behind the differential such as radiator, battery, fuel cell and the planting the wife towards the back, she has some ballast LOL
Besides if i stay in the throttle the G force will take care of weight transfer & put me on the wheelie bars LOL
Take a look around here....there are springer "look" leading links that may work....now I cannot say they have the rigidity of the shorter coupled ones. to my way of thinking, the common springer is a leading link, as opposed to the trailing link on some old bikes. The "bail" that goes around the back of the front wheel ties the rockers together is the main difference that I see. that and the heavier built compoments...my .02