Bleeding CSC brakes

I want to bleed the brakes on my 08 Honda Goldwing with a 2010 CSC kit. I’m having a hard time raising the rear to get both wheels off the ground. I positioned the jack under the diff and only one wheel went up. I put a jack stand under the one that was in the air. By trial and error repositioning the jack I eventually got the other to go up. I then lowered both wheels to the ground. I’m going to order speed bleeders as soon as I can verify what I need. Will at CSC told me the size is 5/16 x 24 (for the rear only?). The lady at Speed Bleeder said the ones in the front are different and gave me part numbers for front and rear.

Do I have the correct info?

Can I bleed the brakes with one rear wheel at a time off the ground?

One more thing, will I potentially damage something raising one wheel at a time?

Gerald

I'm not sure about the 2010 CSC, but on mine it stated to lift it in the middle of the differential and when I did that the trike did not sit level but when I put just a little pressure or weight on the high side I was able to slide a jack stand under each side to level it up but I kept most of the weight on the jack not the stands.

I started a thread on this and in post #7, I have the different speedbleeder part #'s listed.

[url]https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/56754-Question-on-rear-calipers-for-Viper?p=750824&viewfull=1#post750824[/url]

The rear CSC calipers are one size and the front calipers and anti dive valves use 2 other different ones. I actually ordered direct from [url]www.speedbleeder.com[/url] because it was the same price as anywhere else I could find. I went with the steel bleeders.

Just to add, I just saw that in post 8, I accidentally reversed the bleeding order. The rear bleeders on rear CSC calipers need to be done first, then the anti dive valve, then the front bleeders on rear CSC calipers. Sorry if I caused any confusion.

As far as lifting the rear, yes, it does have a tendency to tip. In my experience, it seems to always tip to the left so I try to jack up towards the left side of that differential plate. But like was mentioned, lift from that plate under the rear differential. What you can do is have a bunch of wood pieces handy and as you lift higher place each one under each tire. It's very easy to tip the trike back and forth while lifting to fit the wood pieces under each tire. Once you have it high enough, you can put jack stands on either side of differential plate under the arms to keep it from any more tipping while leaving the jack in place. That's enough to keep it secure so you can remove the wheels. Doing this, you can then easily remove both rear wheels as its much easier to do the brake bleeding with both tires off. I have done this many times.

There is one more undocumented procedure to follow if there is some residual air left in the system. It has been labeled the "Rocky Bleed". It happens after all the regular bleeding has been done. Take a look at this thread:

[url]https://www.gl1800riders.com/threads/rocky-bleed.266426/[/url]

Post #2 has steps 6 and 7 which is the undocumented steps. For clarification on listed steps 3 and 5 in the thread, step 3 would be all the rear bleeders of the rear CSC calipers and 5 is all of the front bleeders on the rear CSC calipers. If you go down to post #7, there are some photos showing where you would need to do steps 6 and 7...

CSC shows a caliper with four bleed valves, mine only has two, front and back on the inside of the caliper. So, should I follow the initial procedure and then bleed the rear most first and then the front?

Gerald

That's what I would do. Rear bleeder on rear calipers, anti dive valve, then front bleeders on rear caliper.

I have discovered that the CSC manuals and literature don't always show the correct components and have errors. They are just generic info meant to help guide you through various components. For example, on the rear end, it tells you to drain gear oil in the differential, replace 32oz (1 qt) then drain the gear box, and replace the 6oz you took out. I found the fill and drain for the rear differential and did the drain and fill. But I looked high and low for that gear box. I found out later that CSC no longer has the gear box and the drive shaft gets connected directly to the rear differential...

[QUOTE=geraldlanc;887549]CSC shows a caliper with four bleed valves, mine only has two, front and back on the inside of the caliper. So, should I follow the initial procedure and then bleed the rear most first and then the front?

Gerald[/QUOTE]

Keep in mind air is lighter than the fluid, it will want to be @ the highest point in a cylinder

If you are pumping the brakes during bleeding, use 1/2 strokes of the pedal and do them slowly, going fast will churn up more air bubbles

If you have rubber flex hoses give them a couple of shakes, this will promote the bubbles to move