Anyone have trouble with starting their freewheeler my gauges messed up and cruise control won't work and natural light stays on mine is 2016 and sometimes just won't start
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Anyone have trouble with starting their freewheeler my gauges messed up and cruise control won't work and natural light stays on mine is 2016 and sometimes just won't start
[QUOTE=Mdavid;569652]Anyone have trouble with starting their freewheeler my gauges messed up and cruise control won't work and natural light stays on mine is 2016 and sometimes just won't start[/QUOTE]
Welcome Morgan. I'm gonna ask the mods to move this to the Freewheeler forum. You may get better response there.
Without much to go on, it's possible you have an electrical problem , but I have a few questions.
Is your Freewheeler under warranty & or extended warranty?
Have you ran a diagnostic check for trouble codes?
If I had to guess, you possibly have a bad clutch switch.
Welcome to Trike Talk, Morgan. I hope you are still under warranty because the only thing I can suggest is take it to the dealer. Good luck.:Dorag:
I've heard this might help - unplug the battery for a couple of minutes. Suppose to force the ECM into a reset. Don't know if that's true or not, but it don't cost anything...
[size=3][B]Morgan, Welcome to Trike Talk Forum. The Freewheeler members can probably guide you better too ![/B][/SIZE]:Shrug:
:welcome:Try the ignition reset trick. :Shrug: Don’t know what the natural light your sayin means ? Other than your minor issues , how ya dooo in .:wave4:
Check your bike for codes first
Follow this link, check your battery also, Welcome to Trike Talk
[url]https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html[/url]
[QUOTE=1dn5up;569739]:welcome:Try the ignition reset trick. :Shrug: Don’t know what the natural light your sayin means ? Other than your minor issues , how ya dooo in .:wave4:[/QUOTE]
Probably means neutral Neutral if I had to guess ?
Morgan welcome to Trike Talk this message sent via iPhone
I think we scared him off.
Hi Morgan. Just wanted to welcome you to TrikeTalk from west Texas. Sorry you’ve got a problem with your trike...hope you get it resolved quick and cheap!
:wave4:
Welcome Morgan, I have a 2015 and haven't had this situation happen...yet, but I'm hopeful that you can get it resolved and be back on the road soon. ThumbUp
Welcome to the Gang from Western Colorado.
+1 on checking for fault codes, disconnecting the battery might help - but doubt it, look for blown fuses - I've seen a fuse melt and cause all kind of faults - not in awhile -but it happens.
More info would be helpful.
Did you do anything?-Trouble shooting 101, look at the last thing you did.
Anything else weird?
Want to say thanks to everyone who took the time to reply to my question about my freewheeler trouble it's still under warranty so back to the dealer for it thought it might be the e c m but I'm sure that they will find out l could unhook the battery and hook up and it will start then ride it 10 miles shut it off and it won't start unhook battery and hook it back up and it will start has me scratching my head
Glad it's under warranty. Are you familiar with how to get into diagnostic mode to check for trouble codes? It's in the manual or online.
It would give you info to help the dealer.
[QUOTE=Mdavid;569979]Want to say thanks to everyone who took the time to reply to my question about my freewheeler trouble it's still under warranty so back to the dealer for it thought it might be the e c m but I'm sure that they will find out l could unhook the battery and hook up and it will start then ride it 10 miles shut it off and it won't start unhook battery and hook it back up and it will start has me scratching my head[/QUOTE]
I bet u have a bad battery
Pull the seat off and check the voltage
Turn the ignition on with a voltmeter hooked up
If it drops below 10 volts replace it
Make sure you charge the new battery first Full charged battery should read 12.7 volts;)
All kinds of strange things can happen with a BAD battery
More info for you
[h=1]Charging System[/h] [B]1. Battery Test:[/B]The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
[B]2. Charging System Voltage Test: [/B]Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
[B]3. Check Connections/Wires:[/B] Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.
[B]4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check:[/B] Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
[LIST]
[*][B]AC Output Check: [/B]
[/LIST]
[LIST=1]
[*]Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
[*]Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
[*]Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
[*]The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
[*]Generic Specs:
[/LIST]
[LIST=|INDENT=1]
[*]22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
[*]32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
[*]45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
[/LIST]
[LIST]
[*][B]Stator Resistance Check: [/B]
[/LIST]
[LIST=1]
[*]Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
[*]Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
[*]Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
[*]Generic Specs:
[/LIST]
[LIST=|INDENT=1]
[*]22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
[*]32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
[*]45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
[/LIST]
[LIST]
[*][B]Stator IB test or Ground Check: [/B]
[/LIST]
[LIST=1]
[*]Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
[*]Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
[*]There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
[*]If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
[/LIST]
[B]5. Regulator Test: [/B]Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
[LIST]
[*][B]Identifying Wires: [/B]
[/LIST]
[LIST=1]
[*][B]Battery Charge Lead[/B]– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
[*][B]AC output leads[/B]– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
[*][B]Ground[/B]– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
[/LIST]
[LIST]
[*][B]Regulator Ground Test: [/B]Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
[/LIST]
[LIST]
[*][B]Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: [/B]This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
[/LIST]
[LIST=1]
[*]Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
[*]Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
[*]Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
[*]The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
[*]Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
[*]The reading should be Infinite.
[*]With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
[*]The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
[*]Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
[*]The reading should be Infinite.
[*]Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
[/LIST]
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TH]Positive Lead[/TH]
[TH]Negative Lead[/TH]
[TH]Reading[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AC output 1[/TD]
[TD]Battery charge lead[/TD]
[TD]Voltage[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AC output 2[/TD]
[TD]Battery Charge Lead[/TD]
[TD]Voltage[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Battery charge lead[/TD]
[TD]AC output 1[/TD]
[TD]∞[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Battery charge lead[/TD]
[TD]AC output 2[/TD]
[TD]∞[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Ground[/TD]
[TD]AC output 1[/TD]
[TD]Voltage[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Ground[/TD]
[TD]AC output 2[/TD]
[TD]Voltage[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AC output 1[/TD]
[TD]Ground[/TD]
[TD]∞[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AC output 2[/TD]
[TD]Ground[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Nice Jack.
Any way we could get this made into a sticky?
I just copied and paste into a new file (pdf) who knows when that info will come in handy.
Duplicate post