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I am thinking of selling my 03 Road Glide and buying a spyder. Due to health issues, I have not ridden her for 2 years. I can't reliably operate the hand levers, and can't use a left footpedal. It looks like spyder has a right pedal, and no levers. Are they reliable, easy to work on?
[QUOTE=adaptolife;280959] Are they reliable, easy to work on?[/QUOTE]
1. The revised touring model seems to be much better. The initial touring model, not so much!
2. Ease of working on depends a lot on one's mechanical ability + if you get the touring model w/all the electonic items, paddle shift, et. NO, they are not easy to work on.
However, instead of taking my or anyone else's opinions, you need to test ride one and get on the Can Am forum to learn more.
Had a new one for 6000 miles. On two occasions would not shift out of neutral (auto trans model RT) and came with factory defective air suspension that the selling dealer would not fix under warranty, and BRP customer service was not willing to rectify the situation. Their resolution to the problem was to "keep taking it back until they fix it". Last year a new Spyder on a ride with us went into limp mode (5mph) for unknown computer safety control. Never found out why but shutting it off and restarting it cleared the problem. Can't speak for the majority of owners but I was very dissatisfied. However the auto transmission sounds like it would serve your needs well. Right hand lever for braking, right foot pedal for braking also. Also some Honda motorcycles have auto transmissions that are reported to be very good if you wanted to stay on two wheels.
[QUOTE=adaptolife;280959]I am thinking of selling my 03 Road Glide and buying a spyder. Due to health issues, I have not ridden her for 2 years. I can't reliably operate the hand levers, and can't use a left footpedal. It looks like spyder has a right pedal, and no levers. Are they reliable, easy to work on?[/QUOTE]
You will get a lot more responses if you post this question on SpyderLovers.com as there are hundreds of spyder riders there. We have had no problems with ours, my wife's ride, but don't have as many miles on it yet.
=bob=
Well I have one but my wife stole it. As far as I'm concerned there are only two years worth owning. A 12 and a 14. We have a 12. Two completely different machines though. The automatic is very picky about oil level. Just a little low and they won't shift properly and they do use oil so you have to keep an eye on that. Why they use it is beyond me but they do and BRP will not do anything about except say check often and add. When everything is right the 12 bikes are great. I can't speak to the 14 except to say it's a 3 cylinder instead of 2 and those that have them like them even better than the 12's. Different engine and transmission.
I have no idea if they have the same oil use quirk. They don't use a lot of oil. It's in the ounces per 1k miles. My wife checks and adds so I'm not even sure just exactly how much but I hear her now and then say she added 3 ounces. And that's what I mean about them being picky about level and not shifting correctly. That small amount and you can tell it needs a little drink because it will start not shifting as easy.
Just recently they were forced to recall the 13 models. I've told everyone to stay completely away from that year. Those literally have been known to go up in smoke because they ran too hot and there was no escape path for the heat. The fix won't be ready until June or July I think I saw. So it's a ride with caution warning right now. The fix will probably correct the heat issue because they are implementing some of the things they learned with the 14's. Better air flow and reversing the fans when stopped or going under 5mph. Every single model needs that and it is just a software change I think. I know I'm going to ask on the next service.
I wouldn't hesitate buying another 12. But I think I'll try letting the wife upgrade to the 14 and I take the 12 for those times I don't feel up to holding 800 pounds up. Those are the only two years I would. They do have another model out that is more sporty with a completely different riding position that thos that have test drove one say they wish they had waited. So I'd test drive everything that interests you. Ours is the RT version.
They also aren't great on fuel mileage but that does seem to be improving. 160 miles is really pushing it. 140 and we start looking for stations. For comparison I'm starting to look at 165 on my Harley and I could go 30 to 35 easy. The Spyder would never make it that far. The Spyder is different. There is no getting around it. But my wife can out corner me now that she's got used to it and we made a few suspension changes. Stiffer sway bar made it a completely different machine. My Harley is an o7 Electra Glide and suffers from high speed wobble so at 75 I'm backing off and my wife is still pushing it. I don't know if she would know if she about to lose it or not so I'm glad the computer or nanny they call it will stop her.
More info than you wanted? There are Spyder specific sites that hash out ever problem they've ever had but they also mostly like them to. I visit to get the info I want and I'm gone. Wife monitors all the time. It's now her baby after all.
The newer 1330 Rotax is a dream to drive..
get the SE6 with semi automatic
its padal shifting and one brake pedal that operates all the brakes. No Hand Levers..That helps me a lot these days..
Just shift and go..
I have over 2200 miles on it and cannot be happier..
Go test rise one with the Semi Automatic Trans
[SIZE=3]Mutha, did you ever own or ride a different brand trike, if so how does your Spyder comlpare?[/SIZE]
[QUOTE=bikerbillone;281222][SIZE=3]Mutha, did you ever own or ride a different brand trike, if so how does your Spyder comlpare?[/SIZE][/QUOTE]
Yes I have..Had the TRiGlide for awhile and a harley conversion..Along with the 2 wheelers
Spyder is like night and day compared to the TRIGLIDE..Smooth and comfortable.
No Clutch,No shift peg,NO hand Brake.
Thumb shift and go..Foot brake works on all brakes.
The front wheels take a short time to figure out.
Plus it has power steering and 3 cylinders..along with other neat things
Not sure If I would go back to Harley or not but right now its SPYDER TIME>>:D
Thanks, I know you're sold on the Spyder, I watch your posts.
I actually added a hand brake to our Spyder. I was just afraid in a panic stop situation I might fail to hit the foot brake as most of my stopping is front brake only on two wheels. The wife doesn't use it at all anymore more me going between the two it was highly questionable.
Has Spyder improved the heat factor on the new models?
I came from the spyder world also. I had a trouble free 2011 RT. Trade it with 16k on it last year.
From most accounts from spyder friends, the 1330 is the way to go. No heat issues or any major issues thus far. So a 2014 -2015 should be good. Doesn't mean other years aren't, but def. do you DD esp on 2013 models.
As far as working on them: Some things a dealer must do like hooking up to buds. Not being any kind of mechanic, I would say they are difficult to work on. A good dealer is a must to make the experience better.
Good luck!!
[QUOTE=bikerbillone;281392]Has Spyder improved the heat factor on the new models?[/QUOTE]
What heat???:D Compared to the Harley its cold..
I have not had any heat issues with the 1330..I have heard of some of the older 990 models did have heat issues..
Test ride one at your local dealer and see if it is for you or not..
Some like the new F3 model..But that is not for me..
I did my first oil change and it was easy..The hard part was taking off the panels..:D
[QUOTE=bikerbillone;281392]Has Spyder improved the heat factor on the new models?[/QUOTE]
Tremendously. New air scoops up front and the big one, reversing the radiator fans when riding really slow or stopped. I'm hoping they allow that reverse thing on all models. It's just a software change.
[QUOTE=bikerbillone;281392]Has Spyder improved the heat factor on the new models?[/QUOTE]
I sold my Tri-Glide UltraClassic last summer and the my Valkyrie Interstate Trike sold in February 2015. I sold both to settle on one unit as downsizing.
My new 2014 RT limited wins hands down over the two trikes. Liked them but my spyder is smoother riding, tons of torque and power to cruise, great stereo etc. etc.
3200 miles and no heat issues.
If your getting one get the auto SE6 trans with new 1330 motor.
[QUOTE=Tri Dragon;282100]I sold my Tri-Glide UltraClassic last summer and the my Valkyrie Interstate Trike sold in February 2015. I sold both to settle on one unit as downsizing.
My new 2014 RT limited wins hands down over the two trikes. Liked them but my spyder is smoother riding, tons of torque and power to cruise, great stereo etc. etc.
3200 miles and no heat issues.
If your getting one get the auto SE6 trans with new 1330 motor.[/QUOTE]
:Agree:..
Selling 2014 Spyder and buying 2014 GL1800 CSC trike. The Spyder is nice and will work very well for you. The SE5 or SE6 I always thought worked as advertised. We had a 2008 SE5 GS that we traded on the 2014 Spyder. There are heat issues on the 2013 RT. I have ridden a few and would be careful of that year. They seem more reliable than when they first came out. Service seems more expensive than on a Wing. Good luck.
[QUOTE=slather;282146]Selling 2014 Spyder and buying 2014 GL1800 CSC trike.
The Spyder is nice and will work very well for you.
The SE5 or SE6 I always thought worked as advertised.
We had a 2008 SE5 GS that we traded on the 2014 Spyder.
There are heat issues on the 2013 RT. I have ridden a few and would be careful of that year. They seem more reliable than when they first came out. Service seems more expensive than on a Wing. Good luck.[/QUOTE]
I did the opposite. GL1800 CSC to a 2014 Spyder.
I found the CSC to be a real workout doing a lot of twisties.
And that was with a rake kit. Service wise, they are about even.
The Spyder may be even less $$ to service. My dealer sold and serviced both.
The CSC ran $330 for a full factory service. No valve adjustment.
The Spyder ran $300 for a full factory service. The Spyder doesn't need valve adjustments.
A valve adjustment on a Gold Wing runs, $600-$900 depending on the dealer and shims needed.
ThumbUp Tom
If you are handy the oil change kit will run you around 80 bucks.
Pull the right side upper cover off to change the oil filter and 2 drain plugs under the bike.
First oil change now is at 3K the next at 9300 miles..This is on the 2014 on up models.
I did notice the change in steering also..I really like the power steering.ThumbUp