Drive shafts

Ok... I decided to start a new thread on this instead of asking in my diesel trike thread.*

I want to make my trike as short as possible. *I don't want 2 feet of driveshaft connecting the transmission to the rear axle. Oh, I will likely be using a Spicer truck transmission and my rear axle is a Ford 10.25 dual tire axle that was on the Uhaul truck *(I have a 3.08 ring and pinion headed this way but that's another story?).

I know I will need the spline between the yokes *to allow some vertical movement of the rear axle. I know at least 1 degree of angle is required on the shaft so the needle bearings will turn.

I will likely haul a utility trailer with this thing so the ass end will bunch around.

Has anyone experience issues with super short driveshafts? Any recommendations would be appreciated.*

Also, *I've heard that 4x4 guys use CV joints instead due to their extreme range of motion. I don't know if it would be worth it to convert everything to use a CV.

My shaft is 8 inch's long . When i shorten up my differential i purposely left the pinion offset 1/2 inch to help angle. . . My reasoning was to keep my trans output shaft plumb as i was fighting ground clearance. I have no drive train vibration. If you build your own shaft the yokes have to be exactly on both ends before you weld them to shaft to keep harmonics in sync . A lot will also depend how much suspension travel you have as to length of shaft

Awesome. *I don't plan on cutting and welding the shaft myself. We have a local shop that's been cutting and welding drive shafts for over 30 years. They are cheap and do excellent work. I've had them cut, weld, and balance one before.*

[QUOTE=BMB Guns;344714]Ok... I decided to start a new thread on this instead of asking in my diesel trike thread.*

I want to make my trike as short as possible. *I don't want 2 feet of driveshaft connecting the transmission to the rear axle. Oh, I will likely be using a Spicer truck transmission and my rear axle is a Ford 10.25 dual tire axle that was on the Uhaul truck *(I have a 3.08 ring and pinion headed this way but that's another story?).

I know I will need the spline between the yokes *to allow some vertical movement of the rear axle. I know at least 1 degree of angle is required on the shaft so the needle bearings will turn.

I will likely haul a utility trailer with this thing so the ass end will bunch around.

Has anyone experience issues with super short driveshafts? Any recommendations would be appreciated.*

Also, *I've heard that 4x4 guys use CV joints instead due to their extreme range of motion. I don't know if it would be worth it to convert everything to use a CV.[/QUOTE]

if you check with your drive shaft people they should be able to tell you what angle you can safely run.. then figure the travel an go from there thinking even at 24" you wouldnt be able to get much travel..

Simple question from a dummy that has wondered this for a long time:xzqxz:
Rear wheel drive cars/trucks do not have splined drive shafts so, why does a motorcycle trike need one:Shrug:
Wasn't one of CSC's "fixes" for their drive shaft problems to weld the drive shaft?

[QUOTE=tfdeputydawg;345306]Simple question from a dummy that has wondered this for a long time:xzqxz:
Rear wheel drive cars/trucks do not have splined drive shafts so, why does a motorcycle trike need one:Shrug:
Wasn't one of CSC's "fixes" for their drive shaft problems to weld the drive shaft?[/QUOTE]

???? all cars and trucks have a splined driveshaft
cars usually the spline is on the trans output shaft
trucks usually have a 2 or 3 pc drive shaft and the spline is between two of the shafts

I cut the spline end off of my driveshaft. One end is good to go to fit the rear axle. Not sure the yoke size that will be on whatever transmission I can find. If my local driveshaft guys can cut the spline shaft shorter before welding it to the yoke it would cut a few inches off the overall length.[ATTACH=CONFIG]33685[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]33686[/ATTACH]

[QUOTE=stacebg;345394]???? all cars and trucks have a splined driveshaft
cars usually the spline is on the trans output shaft
trucks usually have a 2 or 3 pc drive shaft and the spline is between two of the shafts[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info:clapping:

when i built my shaft i had access to a lathe and just cut the weld out and went with new tubing. Your shaft guy will be able to fix u up with what ever you need when your ready im sure

well hows the rig coming?

[QUOTE=butchvoss;351887]well hows the rig coming?[/QUOTE]

It's coming along well enough that I need to revive this thread!!!

I got my transmission and last week I did a "dry fit" if the engine and transmission in the frame. It really hit home how tall the Detroit is (the pan is way below the transmission). This is causing ground clearance issues while trying to line the transmission yoke up with the pinion yoke.

I'll probably have to go with big ass tires to get extra ground clearance for the pan (33 in or larger compared to the 30 in tires I have now). I'll probably also jack up the front end an run with the frame at an angle.

With all that said. What would be a maximum safe angle to run the driveshaft? I get everything from 3 to 10 degrees depending on who you talk to. The maximum RPM of the driveshaft will be 3,000 RPM. That's full throttle in overdrive (estimated speed of 90 or more miles per hour). Cruising speed on the interstate 70 mph will see a shaft speed around 2,250 RPM.

I'm also trying to figure out if Detroit makes a low profile oil pan for the 3-53T. Any little bit will help.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]37964[/ATTACH]

I took and cut my pan down 2 inchs and just widened on outside to make up difference of volume lost by cutting the two inchs. I used a shortened pick up tube and added baffles to slow oil running forward on braking. I was working for a low center of gravity as i sit on top of engine. Heck i even cut down intake to lower carb so i could put on air cleaner. With your welding and metal working talent im sure u will come up with a fix:clapping:

Have you investigated CV joints? They have a fair drop angle and plunge, and they work at zero/zero, unlike u-joints that need an offset in order for the bearings to work. I'm using CV's as both drive shaft and drive axle joints on my build. Conventional U-joints made my shaft too long and the drop too severe, and their inherent harmonic droning drives me nuts. I used VW beetle joints for my drive shaft on account of they were tiny but up to my meager torque requirements, and had a good drop angle range. You'd have to find something much bigger for your application.

I considered CV but I was worried about the torque delivered by the Detroit along with the very low gearing in the 3053a transmission. I also have a yoke on the differential that I would have to change. We have a drive shaft and clutch guru in my area. He makes heavy duty shorty drive shafts all the time for oilfield equipment packages. I basically put the driveshaft and clutch in his capable hands.

The sheer scale of your project might be the CV idea killer. I think you made a good decision giving that part to a real driveline guy. I spent close to a year getting mine sorted. Good luck to you!