Coolant change

I'm in need of a little clarification on changing the coolant in my 08 GL 1800. According to the service manual CD disc I'm to remove the right upper cubby hole or glove box whatever you want to call it. Which will expose my fill cap this is clear and understandable to me. What puzzles me is it says to remove the lower left Fairing and that's where I'll find the drain plug on the engine block. To me taking that lower left fairing panel off exposes the top side of the motor am I wrong or right? Would not the drain plug be on the bottom side of the engine block? According to my service manual I'm also to remove the overflow tank and clean it. Am I going to have problems getting that thing out of that space they tried to squeeze it into? Note I do not have an engine Ballie Pan don't like them cuz I believe they hide or distort any possible signs of fluid leakage from your machine.

My other question is type of coolant am I to get a coolant that is specially designed for aluminum Motors or just get a good quality brand 50/50 mix?

[QUOTE=Tricycleman;517038]I'm in need of a little clarification on changing the coolant in my 08 GL 1800. According to the service manual CD disc I'm to remove the right upper cubby hole or glove box whatever you want to call it. Which will expose my fill cap this is clear and understandable to me. What puzzles me is it says to remove the lower left Fairing and that's where I'll find the drain plug on the engine block. To me taking that lower left fairing panel off exposes the top side of the motor am I wrong or right? Would not the drain plug be on the bottom side of the engine block? According to my service manual I'm also to remove the overflow tank and clean it. Am I going to have problems getting that thing out of that space they tried to squeeze it into? Note I do not have an engine Ballie Pan don't like them cuz I believe they hide or distort any possible signs of fluid leakage from your machine.

My other question is type of coolant am I to get a coolant that is specially designed for aluminum Motors or just get a good quality brand 50/50 mix?[/QUOTE]

Glad to hear you are changing the coolant. Many neglect this service and then wonder why they have a high temp. gauge reading while others don't.

First, lets clarify some parts. The cubby hole above the radiator cap is called the right front pocket. The chrome covers on the sides of the engine are called engine covers. So the one with the coolant reservoir cap is called the left engine cover.

To get the coolant drain plug, you will have to remove the lower center cowl. If your Wing has fog lamps, it's the cover between the fog lamps. The drain plug sits at the lowest part of the cooling system ... not be confused with the lowest part of the motor. The drain plug sits below the heads, water pump, and radiators.

To service the system, remove the RF pocket, the lower center cowl, the left side cover. Remove the rad. cap and the coolant drain plug. Be sure to replace the crush washer when reinstalling the plug.

Then remove the reservoir. I too don't like belly pans for the same reason you noted. Hopefully your trike does not have some sort of running board support blocking it's removal. Once it is out, clean it and inspect the top of the rubber that the return hose nipple fits into. Any cracking and it needs to be replaced. In Honda's part's fishe it is call a "tube, level." Also, inspect the end of the hose that goes over the plastic nipple that fits into the tube, level. Any cracking in it ??? If any, replace both reservoir hoses.

As for coolant ... I only use Honda coolant. You'll need 4 bottles of that. Your cooling system, and radiator cap should be pressure tested before changing the coolant.

[QUOTE=GoldWingrGreg;517044]Glad to hear you are changing the coolant. Many neglect this service and then wonder why they have a high temp. gauge reading while others don't.

First, lets clarify some parts. The cubby hole above the radiator cap is called the right front pocket. The chrome covers on the sides of the engine are called engine covers. So the one with the coolant reservoir cap is called the left engine cover.

To get the coolant drain plug, you will have to remove the lower center cowl. If your Wing has fog lamps, it's the cover between the fog lamps. The drain plug sits at the lowest part of the cooling system ... not be confused with the lowest part of the motor. The drain plug sits below the heads, water pump, and radiators.

To service the system, remove the RF pocket, the lower center cowl, the left side cover. Remove the rad. cap and the coolant drain plug. Be sure to replace the crush washer when reinstalling the plug.

Then remove the reservoir. I too don't like belly pans for the same reason you noted. Hopefully your trike does not have some sort of running board support blocking it's removal. Once it is out, clean it and inspect the top of the rubber that the return hose nipple fits into. Any cracking and it needs to be replaced. In Honda's part's fishe it is call a "tube, level." Also, inspect the end of the hose that goes over the plastic nipple that fits into the tube, level. Any cracking in it ??? If any, replace both reservoir hoses.

As for coolant ... I only use Honda coolant. You'll need 4 bottles of that. Your cooling system, and radiator cap should be pressure tested before changing the coolant.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the great explanation only need one clarification and that's the left side panel what are you referring to the fairing cover or the cover that's inside of the fairing that's black in color?

I will be also removing my alternator to do some testing, replace bearings, brushes and seal. With that alternator removed will I have a greater access to that coolant reservoir for removal? I do have Roadsmith running boards on my trike and as you mentioned I probably will have to remove the support brackets.

I don't have a coolant issue but had my ride for three years 62000 miles on it and have no idea of any records of service. Thus this winter going through the bike from front to back top to bottom doing all the required preventive maintenance and services don't like having issues when 3000 miles from home and ruining a trip.

I'm a firm believer in following Honda's recommended services and using Honda OEM parts as I had an 89 GL 1500 and maintain all the recommended service intervals when I let the gal go it had 307000 miles and it's still ran like it was brand new heck it was probably just getting broken in.

Take a look at this for some visuals on some of the components

[URL="http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/coolant"]http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/coolant[/URL]

Also there is a neat tool that greatly helps out with the process although it isn't absoluty required. It is the uview airlift. You can find it for around $100 if you look around.

[URL="http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?dsp=productdetail&id=45700&productid=5120"]http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?dsp=productdetail&id=45700&productid=5120[/URL]

One thing you must do is make sure that all the air is purged out of system when finished refilling or you will have problems. The uview makes it as simple as can be.

[QUOTE=Tricycleman;517276]Thanks for the great explanation only need one clarification and that's the left side panel what are you referring to ...?

[/QUOTE]

Sorry ... meant left engine cover (chrome).

[QUOTE=pwhoever;517281]Take a look at this for some visuals on some of the components

[URL]http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/coolant[/URL]

Also there is a neat tool that greatly helps out with the process although it isn't absoluty required. It is the uview airlift. You can find it for around $100 if you look around.

[URL]http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?dsp=productdetail&id=45700&productid=5120[/URL]

One thing you must do is make sure that all the air is purged out of system when finished refilling or you will have problems. The uview makes it as simple as can be.[/QUOTE]

Some use that; however, instead of doing any of that, your best guidance is what is written in the Service Manual. Did I mention ... to be sure to pressure test the cooling system and cap. With your age and mileage, there is a high probability that your Wing has coolant leaks. Spending money on proper testing is a better investment then getting un-needed equipment on sucking and filling equipment.

[QUOTE=GoldWingrGreg;517349]Some use that; however, instead of doing any of that, your best guidance is what is written in the Service Manual. Did I mention ... to be sure to pressure test the cooling system and cap. With your age and mileage, there is a high probability that your Wing has coolant leaks. Spending money on proper testing is a better investment then getting un-needed equipment on sucking and filling equipment.[/QUOTE]

Excellent points. Autozone has the tester that can be "rented" to check this. It actually ends up being free but they initially put a deposit on a credit card and as long as you bring it back within the allotted time, they credit the full amount back on your card.

Do 2 cooling system tests. One at 16-20psi and another at 6-8. Do each one for a couple of hours. Often, for a leak to finally drip onto your garage floor, it has to pool first before dripping onto the floor. So getting one to drip can sometimes take a while.