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[QUOTE=terebit;883915]Main reason I haven't posted lately is because nothing's changed that much visually. I'm expecting the painted cowlings to be done next week, provided there are no unforeseen delays. I've also been struggling with a couple problems. First, the snap ring holding the adjuster assembly in the clutch popped out while I was bleeding the hydraulic actuator. The adjuster assembly replaces the OE throw-out bearing in the pressure plate. Then when I put it all back together, somehow I got part of the adjuster backwards and I actually broke the pressure plate trying to force it together. After getting a new pressure plate, it took several days of putting it together and taking it apart before I figured out what I'd done wrong.
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Next, I've been struggling with some electrical problems. Fuses blowing and turn signals not working. I thought it was my wiring job, but traced the problem in the rear wiring to the harness supplied with the kit. Whoever built the harness soldered wires together, but didn't use any shrink wrap to keep the connections apart. That won't work! A little insulation added between the black-ground and the blue-power wires. Rear has continuity now to running lights, brake lights, and turn signals; but It's still blowing the Ignition fuse as soon as I turn on the switch. tearing into the front harness now. Picture is the rear:
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Third problem. I started installing the Cobra true duals (exhaust) and realized that I ordered the wrong part number. Came with 12mm O2 sensor bungs. My bike uses 18mm O2 sensors. Had to order replacement head pipes.
Other than that, things are great...[/QUOTE]
Lucky it seems that you have the knowledge To work through all this bullshit , How could they leave the wires like that ? crazy , Looks great Good Luck
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Wow, that wiring was a hot mess
I would have fired a guy working for me like that
Good to see you got it figured out
That is 1 bad ass vehicle you got going on there:clapping:
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Exhausted
Got my head pipes in the mail; with the right size O2 sensor bungs this time. Spent the day today hanging the exhaust.
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Wrapping it up
Added cowlings today. Color scheme carried over from the original bike.
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Worked on some other things, but those pictures will wait. Happy Mother's Day to all the moms out there.
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GOOD JOB
Really nice job, Looks like a complete custom professional install, Lookin at the picture's blown up I see no chip's or marks from in the paint from assembly, The orange color looks really good with the black and chrome. DID YOU RIDE IT ???????:D:D
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[QUOTE=ROAD DOG;884753]DID YOU RIDE IT ???????:D:D[/QUOTE]
I sat on it; does that count? Will post riding impressions shortly after the first series of test rides. I'm still troubleshooting an electrical problem that blows the Ignition fuse immediately when the switch is turned on. I'm working on adding the fenders too, plus a ton of little things... I'll talk a little about the fun I had with fender struts in my next post; when I've got some new pictures to go along.
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You're doing a fine job and that is certainly different. The paint work is unique. :clapping:
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That sure is looking good. Being you change the exhaust what tuner do you plan to use.
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[QUOTE=2K1200LTS;884873]Being you change the exhaust what tuner do you plan to use.[/QUOTE]
I doubt I will need to use a tuner, but if I do I'll probably use the Harley Race Tuner along with a dyno tune.
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Strut fail
Couple days ago, I started looking at how the fenders mount. The struts bolt onto the steering knuckle/spindle in front and the wheel hub/spindle in the rear; and then glue to the fenders. The Dealer Manual (Installation Instructions) say, "Line the fender struts in line with the wheels with a minimum gap of 5 mm, this is for a better fitment of the fender." That's all you get for instructions; oh, and there's a couple pictures that show the installed struts wrapping around the side of the tire, with the suggested minimum gap (I guess?). Looking at the struts, they are different front [tire] and rear [tire]; but which is which? My brain said the rear fenders are bigger, so the bigger struts must go on the rear. Fail. Clue, if the wheels and tires won't go back on due to lack of clearance, then you've probably installed the struts wrong; disassemble and try again. Second try was a charm. Even installed in the correct positions, the struts require some serious tweaking to align the fenders close to centered on the tires. By tweaking, I mean get a long 2x4 or another type of pry bar and put some ass into it. The struts have to be bent into the best possible position. This picture is as installed, crooked as heck, rubbing on tire at rear, before prying:
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Fenders mocked up. Still need to work on the fender alignment on the front, but this is [B]close[/B] to 'as good as it gets'.
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With the fenders mounted, I found the headlights made contact with the front fenders when the wheel is turned (fenders turn with the wheels). I raised the headlights some, but it's not enough. I think I'll need to go up another inch or move them inboard a bit. Another problem to solve...
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Love the look . Like the details you are give to bad can't do a video
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[QUOTE=wlivin2;884972]Love the look . Like the details you are give to bad can't do a video[/QUOTE]
Yeah, it would explain things a lot better, but I'm more into wrenching than movie making.
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paint
The Paint looks awsome , did you glue the fenders yet ? We use 3m 08115 panel bond adhesive, we glue 1/4 panels, roofs, anything and everything never had it fail . check it out
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[QUOTE=ROAD DOG;884983]The Paint looks awsome , did you glue the fenders yet ? We use 3m 08115 panel bond adhesive, we glue 1/4 panels, roofs, anything and everything never had it fail . check it out[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the tip. Still got a little work to do before I glue the fenders. I'll be using this stuff.
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I like the orange and black paint theme:clapping:
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Eliminated
Slowly working through my gig list; process of elimination. Happy to report that I found the electrical short that was blowing the Ignition fuse. Pinched wires in the right handlebar controls. That's on me; I must have done it when I installed the switch housing. Now the bike starts, and all the lights work as they should. Moved the bike under its own power to check the Rekluse clutch operation; works as it should. Haven't tested the reverse yet. The integrated foot-pedal brake works (eliminated the handlebar [front] brake), but I'm going to need to add a return spring and might need to do some more bleeding. It feels soft and doesn't return to the full upright position. Fenders are glued in place, but I want to pull the wheels off and add more glue to make sure all the voids are filled. Got some spacers in the mail to reposition (raise) the headlights so they won't contact the front fenders (I hope). As soon as I get that sorted, I'll be able to extend my test rides.
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Road Warrior Wanabe
Test rode the quad bike on the street for the first time today. Speed limit for my road is 55 mph and the road is uneven and curvy; my first outing I got up to 35 mph. I felt like it was trying to throw me off, but I suspect some of that feeling is normal coming from 2 wheels and not knowing how much side-to-side rocking to expect. However, the steering was uncomfortably twitchy at this point. I brought it back home to do a little work on the wheel alignment. Up until now, I'd only eyeballed the toe-in. So, I did the next best thing, string and level. String for the toe-in and level for camber. Not sure how to adjust the caster on this thing yet. Front toe is set close to 1/8" in now and rear is close to zero. Took it back out and braved 50 mph. It still needs a professional alignment, if I can find a shop willing to do it. Otherwise, I will need to buy some more sophisticated equipment. 50 mph is work right now, 75 mph is unimaginable.
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Glued the front and rear grill screens in place.
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Ready to go to the first show.
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Tight fit getting through the door in my buddy's motorcycle trailer.
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Looking pretty darn good Terry
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If you can figure a caster adjustment it will make it more stable and steering will not be as goofy feeling you now have
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[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;886146]If you can figure a caster adjustment it will make it more stable and steering will not be as goofy feeling you now have[/QUOTE]
Agree. I've asked the dealer for the alignment spec several times, but they're ghosting me. Probably because they still owe me parts or a refund. Actually, more likely, because they won't take any responsibility for my build and, therefore, won't answer any of my questions; or even respond to emails. Frustrating.
I'll try to find an alignment shop that will work with me, and adjust until we get it feeling stable. The steering is light and quick; it needs dumbed down to make it comfortable. I think you're right, caster is the key.