Making my own rear kit

Hi all, this is just 1 of the MANY questions that I will need help with. I in no way can afford to buy a trike kit, but I am capable of building my own with the help of you riders on here with answering my questions or steering me to someone who can. First off when you buy the "rear end kit" is it longer than what the original "swingarm" would be? I know that it will be wider (common sense) If its the same length then about 1/2 of my battle is won.

I will be using a chain drive, is it necessary to have a "pumpkin" rear end? I want to go straight axle (custom made) and mount my original rear sprocket onto it. I have read both pro and cons on these 2 set-ups. Will this cause any unforseen problems, Also I will be making my own "rear end" for this it will be rigid. Luckily I know about fabrication, but could use an answer about the length and any other tid-bits that some of you may have picked up. I really don't won't to go by TRIAL AND ERROR system. I won't be buying a raked triple tree I will be raking my frame 6 degrees but can't quiet figure out how much longer my front end will have to be any suggestions?
thanking all who help

[QUOTE=alwayswantedatrike;128715]...First off when you buy the "rear end kit" is it longer than what the original "swingarm" would be? [/QUOTE]

My DFT kit reuses the stock rear pulley and drive belt. Therefore, the wheelbase is the same as stock (same as with stock swingarm).

Good luck!

Hey thanks, keep em' coming

[quote=alwayswantedatrike;128715]Hi all, this is just 1 of the MANY questions that I will need help with. I in no way can afford to buy a trike kit, but I am capable of building my own with the help of you riders on here with answering my questions or steering me to someone who can. First off when you buy the "rear end kit" is it longer than what the original "swingarm" would be? I know that it will be wider (common sense) If its the same length then about 1/2 of my battle is won.
I will be using a chain drive, is it necessary to have a "pumpkin" rear end? I want to go straight axle (custom made) and mount my original rear sprocket onto it. I have read both pro and cons on these 2 set-ups. Will this cause any unforseen problems, Also I will be making my own "rear end" for this it will be rigid. Luckily I know about fabrication, but could use an answer about the length and any other tid-bits that some of you may have picked up. I really don't won't to go by TRIAL AND ERROR system. I won't be buying a raked triple tree I will be raking my frame 6 degrees but can't quiet figure out how much longer my front end will have to be any suggestions?
thanking all who help[/quote]

If you tell us what make of bike you have and the year-you might get more responses!:Shrug::D

I wouldn't recommend a straight axle with just a sprocket. If you don't use some type of differential, the twisting torque of just going around a corner may cause havoc with the axle, as well as trying to push the trike straight instead of making the turn. I had a go cart with a straight axle, and, in a hard corner it would throw the chain off the sprocket.

A differential would be worth the wait, I think.

[quote=twowheeler63;137999]I wouldn't recommend a straight axle with just a sprocket. If you don't use some type of differential, the twisting torque of just going around a corner may cause havoc with the axle, [/quote]

Has anyone here designed and built a "live" axle design without a differential, but allowed one wheel to "freewheel" in order to allow differing wheel speeds in a turn? I realize this wouldn't be as effective as a differential because the power would only go to the driven wheel all the time, but with the wheels as close together as they are on most trikes (about 40"to 45") it seems like you could get away with a "single pull" axle. Under hard acceleration, the trike may want to pull slightly to the side with the "free wheel", such as happens in a sidecar, but that's easily corrected with some pressure on the bars. Comments, opinions?

Bob

That one is easy, just pull on left wheel, let right free wheel at all time.

[quote=saab9k;141532]That one is easy, just pull on left wheel, let right free wheel at all time.[/quote]

Any particular reason why the left wheel should be the puller, and the right wheel the idler? I haven't given it much thought, but I was thinking in the case of converting my Sportster, I'd drive the right wheel. The drive sprocket is on the right side, so the drive side of the axle would be shorter on the right side. This may not make sense without seeing my design, and right now it's just in my head.

Bob

[quote=bobscogin;141550]Any particular reason why the left wheel should be the puller, and the right wheel the idler? I haven't given it much thought, but I was thinking in the case of converting my Sportster, I'd drive the right wheel. The drive sprocket is on the right side, so the drive side of the axle would be shorter on the right side. This may not make sense without seeing my design, and right now it's just in my head.

Bob[/quote]

I just picked one. When parked, usualy the left is one harder ground than the left.

you can convert an IRS diff to chain drive very easily, the mazda mx5 for example, or some of the fords. Basically with a ford one taunaus you call it in america I think. Basically you replace the case with two plates holding sealed bearings, then fit a can over the diff workings, half fill with gease , then top up to 3/4 full with oil. make sure it can hinge to tighten chain. remove input drive to crown wheel, and bolt sproket n instead of crown wheel. the pictures on here will give you an idea [url=http://www.westgarage.co.uk/forsale/kits/kit2.html]Westgarage Engineering Services - Sierra 7" Chain Drive VLSD[/url]

I'm experimenting with a chain drive differential using a 2 wheel drive Toyota pickup differential. It's a very compact unit and uses a ring gear that's only 7.5" in diameter. I'm converting the tapered roller bearing to sealed ball bearings using 6209 bearings and will, of course replace the ring gear/crown wheel with a sprocket. The most challenging part is designing the "can" to seal it up. This conversion, however, won't be for an independent suspension but will be made along the lines of the Harley Servicar rear axle.

Bob

[quote=bobscogin;141515]Has anyone here designed and built a "live" axle design without a differential, but allowed one wheel to "freewheel" in order to allow differing wheel speeds in a turn? I realize this wouldn't be as effective as a differential because the power would only go to the driven wheel all the time, but with the wheels as close together as they are on most trikes (about 40"to 45") it seems like you could get away with a "single pull" axle. Under hard acceleration, the trike may want to pull slightly to the side with the "free wheel", such as happens in a sidecar, but that's easily corrected with some pressure on the bars. Comments, opinions?

Bob[/quote]

no idea where you are on this project.... but dont waste your time with one wheel drive... ill handling worse than you think

[quote=stacebg;166380]no idea where you are on this project.... but dont waste your time with one wheel drive... ill handling worse than you think[/quote]

Yeah, kind of suspected that. I'm going to pursue the rear end fabrication using the Toyota differential.

Bob