I have the brake warning light lit on my 2008.
Just bled the brakes front and rear. Any suggestions on where to start checking?
Thanks.
Jeff
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I have the brake warning light lit on my 2008.
Just bled the brakes front and rear. Any suggestions on where to start checking?
Thanks.
Jeff
Check fluid level. :wave4:
[QUOTE=ST1300;671716]I have the brake warning light lit on my 2008.
Just bled the brakes front and rear. Any suggestions on where to start checking?
Thanks.
Jeff[/QUOTE]
Call Richard at TMS and ask him, there could be a reset process. Tomg
What I believe you have is the switch on the bottom of the proportion valve back by the master cylinder is being activated. That valve is there for if either the front or the rear system failed the valve will cut off fluid to failed system leaving the other system functioning put at a much reduced rate. When you bled the brakes you might have allowed that piston in there to move enough to activate the switch but probably not enough to block one of the systems. I found that a hard application of the brakes a couple of times helped to center the piston.
[QUOTE=Gorilla;671764]What I believe you have is the switch on the bottom of the proportion valve back by the master cylinder is being activated. That valve is there for if either the front or the rear system failed the valve will cut off fluid to failed system leaving the other system functioning put at a much reduced rate. When you bled the brakes you might have allowed that piston in there to move enough to activate the switch but probably not enough to block one of the systems. I found that a hard application of the brakes a couple of times helped to center the piston.[/QUOTE]
Thanks! I will check it out and report back.
[QUOTE=Gorilla;671764]What I believe you have is the switch on the bottom of the proportion valve back by the master cylinder is being activated. That valve is there for if either the front or the rear system failed the valve will cut off fluid to failed system leaving the other system functioning put at a much reduced rate. When you bled the brakes you might have allowed that piston in there to move enough to activate the switch but probably not enough to block one of the systems. I found that a hard application of the brakes a couple of times helped to center the piston.[/QUOTE]
Thanks. I will try that.
[QUOTE=trikeman;671723]Check fluid level. :wave4:[/QUOTE] I did. All good.
So far I have checked the brake fluid level and its right where its supposed to be.
I went out for a ride and applied the brakes very hard several times. It will stop fast with no dart or weave. It will lock up the front brake on a panic stop. Warning light is still on. Any more suggestions?
Jeff
Try disconnecting ground cable for a few minutes :wave4:
So far I have checked the fluid level and its good. I have did hard stops from several speeds. I have unhooked the battery and grounded the cables together. I have unhooked the wire to the emergency brake and checked it. No luck so far. Light and warning buzzer still on!!
Any other tips will be appreciated.
Jeff
Question, why did you bleed your brakes?
Was this light on prior?
Did you run the master cylinder low when bleeding?
Was your brake pedal low and spongy prior to bleeding?
Most metering/ combination valves are NOT serviceable in the field
This means once the pressure difference is detected you will set a light and it will not go out until the failed unit has been replaced and brake system is bleed properly
[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;673016]Question, why did you bleed your brakes?
Was this light on prior? No
Did you run the master cylinder low when bleeding? No
Was your brake pedal low and spongy prior to bleeding? Yes
Most metering/ combination valves are NOT serviceable in the field
This means once the pressure difference is detected you will set a light and it will not go out until the failed unit has been replaced and brake system is bleed properly[/QUOTE]
Is it time for me to think about replacing the proportioning valve?
[QUOTE=ST1300;673019]Is it time for me to think about replacing the proportioning valve?[/QUOTE]
That all depends,
I have seen this problem many times with no ill affects to the braking system, however should a failure of 1 axles brakes happen you would not know until you applied the brakes
IMO it all comes down to trust and safety
I have 1 more question for you, does your master cylinder have a float inside or an electrical wire running to it?
If it has a float it could be stuck causing the light to stay on
I am not familiar with your set up, if I saw a picture of it I could give a better answer
In the end we have to trust our brakes no matter what we ride;)
Your answer to question about brakes being low or spongy was yes?
While you have bled your brakes it is worth doing it 1 more time
It does not take much pressure difference to set a brake light
Have a helper pump the brakes with even slow pumps then crack the bleeders open 1 at a time
See if that resets your light
If not the valve is going to have to be replaced
[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;673024]Your answer to question about brakes being low or spongy was yes?
While you have bled your brakes it is worth doing it 1 more time
It does not take much pressure difference to set a brake light
Have a helper pump the brakes with even slow pumps then crack the bleeders open 1 at a time
See if that resets your light
If not the valve is going to have to be replaced[/QUOTE]
I will rebleed them and see if that works. Thanks for the help.
And yes they were soft and spongy before I bled them. The back brakes were full of air and I had almost no rear brakes.
Jeff
It's been a while but I have rebled all of the brakes , checked everything I know to check and still the brake light is still on , on the dash. Looks like I need to replace the brake balance valve. Can anyone tell me the part number I need to look for?
Jeff
Before you look at replacing the valve,
Does this valve had a wire running to it? If it does unplug it. Is the light still on?
Most brake systems use this and a combination switch @ the parking brake. If the parking brake does have a switch it too can cause the light on if the pedal is not returning far enough to trigger the switch. By unplugging the wire @ the combo valve by the master cylinder you can confirm if the hydraulic system is the culprit. Good Luck;)
I have checked the circuit by removing the wire at the brake lever end and that is not the problem. I then unhooked the wire at the valve and the light and buzzer stopped. The culprit is in the valve so I need a part # for a new one.
Jeff
[QUOTE=ST1300;680794]I have checked the circuit by removing the wire at the brake lever end and that is not the problem. I then unhooked the wire at the valve and the light and buzzer stopped. The culprit is in the valve so I need a part # for a new one.
Jeff[/QUOTE]
sorry i don't think anyone has replaced that part.
After much research and phone calls I have purchased a Valve from Master Power Brakes. It is model VL 3359, Universal Combo Valve. They were great to work with. I will report back when I get it installed.
Jeff