Fluid flush - brake and clutch

My dealer held a service clinic yesterday and we watched the tech perform a complete flush of the clutch and brake systems of a Limited that was recently taken in trade. I was interested as planning to have my TG done next month and this was a education for sure.

Wondered why he was removing the controls and switches from the handlebars and he showed us a clamp like device he uses to re-mount the clutch and brake perches so they are completely level. You can lean and turn the handlebars on a two wheeler but not on a rack and a trike of course not really able to do that well in order to keep the master cylinders level. He said this really help prevent spills and it worked well.

To remove the clutch cover two of the heat shields came off. Then he loosened just the rear nut of each of the headpipes at the cylinder and removed the nuts on the exhaust hanger bracket at the rear. Then after removing the hanger nut on the exhaust below the clutch he could rotate the exhaust system just enough to access the clutch cover.

After bleeding the clutch he removed the primary / derby cover and put a dial indicator on it so he could measure the clutch movement to insure it was within specs. Then he held the clutch lever in for quite a while to verify no movement. Movement would have indicated a loss of hydraulic pressure in the system and necessitated a re-bleed or possibly other repair.

After vacuum bleeding each caliper he hooked up the digital technician computer and it went through several diagnostic steps which he had to respond to. Then for 70 seconds each he had to continuously pump first the brake lever and then the brake pedal all the while the ABS pump was pulsating. This removed what little fluid was trapped in the pump valves.

Start to finish was almost 2 hours. Of course we were observing and asking questions so probably not take quite that long usually. But the TG will be more difficult as rear wheels must be removed and getting to the exhaust hanger bolts is a chore. Tech said sometimes it is easier and quicker to remove the body.

This is a much bigger job than I imagined and I'll not be surprised if it's 3 hours labor at $125 plus fluid and derby gasket for my TG. Beats replacing the ABS pump and / or losing clutch and brakes though. Been there losing clutch and rear brake before and it's not fun.

Good post Jerry and thanks for it;)

I am a bit anal about my brake fluid, I flush mine yearly, I do not like surprises

I did the same with the hydraulic clutch fluid on my 15 and 17 Freewheelers

I must have been a lucky dog, on both of them I could get the faux transmission cover off without the extra steps

The 21 I now own is a cable pull clutch, I have already taken the cable apart and lubed it, and readjusted the cable and clutch basket( the cable free play adjuster is cheaply made and I am sure it will fail in the 2 year warranty period)

I have only passing familiarity with the 'new style' clutch cables but the tech did talk about it. He said the adjustment is made at the clutch hub as you said. As I understand it the free play adjuster does that 'automatically' after doing the adjustment at the hub. The older style cables had a turnbuckle to adjust the free play. Guess that was too complicated, lol. Anyway hope it holds up.

I know hydraulic vs cable clutch is a bit like motor oil, heel shifter, etc., as far as opinions go. Personally I like the hydraulic clutch. I find the one on my '18 and now my'20 is much better as far as the engagement point being closer to the grip giving my friction zone that it was on my other ones - '07, '11, '12 and '17. Seems like H-D was getting it right and then abandoned it. Probably less costly I'm thinking.

I have a Goldwing, BUT I still change all the fluids every season......... I want my trike to last forever ....:GL1800:

Ronnie

2/17/22

I just had my brake and clutch fluids flushed and changed at a Florida dealer couple weeks ago. I did my 3-hole change before taking it in, but my bill was still over $800. Of course that included a new front tire and my $50 deductible on a new reverse motor. But it was still pretty steep for those fluid flushes.

The FL dealer said for bikes always kept down here those flushes need to be done more often. I'll probably still only have it done every couple of years.

[QUOTE=ISP-FL;877243]I just had my brake and clutch fluids flushed and changed at a Florida dealer couple weeks ago. I did my 3-hole change before taking it in, but my bill was still over $800. Of course that included a new front tire and my $50 deductible on a new reverse motor. But it was still pretty steep for those fluid flushes.

The FL dealer said for bikes always kept down here those flushes need to be done more often. I'll probably still only have it done every couple of years.[/QUOTE]

I take mine it on 3/22/22 for the fluid flush. After the tech seminar I attended I figured on about 2.5 hours labor plus parts - fluid and primary cover gasket. At $125/hr I'm hoping to get out for $350 - $400 which is still an exorbitant amount for the work imo. I'm going to ask in the future if I do the flush myself can I just get them to actuate the ABS pump afterward and see if they'll agree to that.

It's amazing to me that auto tire shops do mount and balance for so very little but even when I brought the front wheel and new tire in to be mounted it still cost me about $80 for the dealer to do it. Used an indy for a few years but he quit doing as because he said the insurance cost was just too much for the amount of revenue he was taking in. So the dealer is my only option except for the local Cycle Gear and I've heard nothing but horror stories about them.

Highway Robbery 1st Degree! My Dyna has ABS. I bleed the system as usual then get it up to about 30mph and panic stop actuating the abs hcu then go back and bleed again. I'll repeat the process 3 more times. Crazy the money they want.

[QUOTE=Old Road Dog;877423]Highway Robbery 1st Degree! My Dyna has ABS. I bleed the system as usual then get it up to about 30mph and panic stop actuating the abs hcu then go back and bleed again. I'll repeat the process 3 more times. Crazy the money they want.[/QUOTE]

now that is good thinking

Well I just got my TG home from having the clutch and brake systems flushed and I am not disappointed, lol. It was about what I expected - 3 hours labor @ $125 + 2 bottles of Dot 4 Platinum brake fluid @ $7.95 + shop supplies + sales tax = $446.96. We don't have income tax here in TN but do have a helluva sales tax of 9.75% - no free lunch, lol.

From what I witnessed in the service clinic seeing the tech do this service on a two wheeler I knew the TG would be more involved since it's harder to access the muffler hanger bolts, wheels must be removed, extra caliper to bleed, etc. So I think 3 hours labor is not out of line. The $125 hourly rate and shop supplies of 5% of total . . . well that's a bit pricey imo. But I want my dealer to be there when I need him and sometimes you just gotta pay the man.

But after seeing the tech at the service clinic, reading posts here and watching several YouTube videos I think I'll be doing it as per Old Road Dog's procedure in the future.

Wow, that’s a lot $$$. Thanks for the info. I’m due, lol, may have to think this thru.

[QUOTE=Wmitz;878934]Wow, that’s a lot $$$. Thanks for the info. I’m due, lol, may have to think this thru.[/QUOTE]

Yeah it sure is and like I said I don't think I'll let the dealer do it next time. Pretty confident I can do it with no problem.

[QUOTE=ultrafxr;878952]Yeah it sure is and like I said I don't think I'll let the dealer do it next time. Pretty confident I can do it with no problem.[/QUOTE]

The way I figure it is I save between $300 and $400 a year by doing my own oil changes (2.5 changes per year). If I end up paying for the brake and hydrolic fluid flush every year or two I'm still money ahead, or at least close to breaking even.