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While riding today I got a check engine light. It was intermittent. It would stay on for a while then go off. And...in a few minutes it would come back on. Engine seemed to be running fine. My cruise control quit working. When I got home and let it cool down I ran a code check on it. The only one that it showed was P0577. How do I systematically begin searching for the solution?
[QUOTE=grandpawj;484583]While riding today I got a check engine light. It was intermittent. It would stay on for a while then go off. And...in a few minutes it would come back on. Engine seemed to be running fine. My cruise control quit working. When I got home and let it cool down I ran a code check on it. The only one that it showed was P0577. How do I systematically begin searching for the solution?[/QUOTE]
Bad cruise switch would be my guess...Have you changed the bars or gripes lately.:Shrug:
Could be, I will have to check it out. But to answer you question, I haven't done anything to the grips (that I know of). Any idea what it would cost to get another switch?
[QUOTE=grandpawj;484588]Could be, I will have to check it out. But to answer you question, I haven't done anything to the grips (that I know of). Any idea what it would cost to get another switch?[/QUOTE]
60 to75 Dollars, But i wouldn't run out and get one yet, It just might need a shot of contact spray...And i'm sure someone else will chime in with a little more info than i can give...
This thread might help ... it has most of the codes
[url]http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/43035-Harley-trouble-codes?highlight=harley+trouble+codes[/url]
I am on my way to figuring it out. (I think) I have made it to table 4-53 "Cruise Inoperative Diagnostics" in the electrical shop manual. Right now I am trying to digest it all, tomorrow I will go outside and begin trying to follow the chart.
OK, now I have reduced the search to the rear brake switch circuit. The switch itself or a broken or skinned wire. More to come, I am sure.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]46658[/ATTACH]
Harley Trouble Codes
The following procedure will instruct in retrieving and clearing ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes and TSM/TSSM codes thru the Harley guage cluster as well as a list of codes.
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module) [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
--------------------------
HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module
Priority/DTC/Fault condition
1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error
2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error
3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low
4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High
5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM
6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM
7. P1003 System relay contacts open
8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted
9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low
10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed
11. P1009 Incorrect Password
12. P1010 Missing Password
13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range
14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range
15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent
16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low
17. P0108 Map Sensor High
18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error
19. P1511 Throttle actuator control power management failure of throttle control actuator
20. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error
21. P1270 TGS Validation Error
22. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault
23. P2101 throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performace error
24. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
25. P2123 TGS1 High
26. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open
27. P2128 TGS2 High
28. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
29. P0120 TPS1 Range Error
30. P0220 TPS2 Range Error
31. P0122 TPS1 Low
32. P0123 TPS2 High/Open
33. P0222 TPS2 Low
34. P0223 TPS2 High/Open
35. P2135 TPS Correlation Error
36. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance
37. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open
38. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)
39. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low
40. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High
41. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned
42. P1514 Air Flow Fault
43. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown
44. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low
45. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High
46. P0572 Brake Switch Low
47. P0117 ET Sensor Low
48. P0118 ET Sensor High
49. P0112I AT Voltage Low
50. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High
51. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
52. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
53. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
54. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
55. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
56. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
57. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low
58. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low
59. P0262 Front Injector High
60. P0264 Rear Injector High
61. P0562 Battery Voltage Low
62. P0563 Battery Voltage High
63. P0501 VSS Sensor Low
64. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open..
65. P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion
66. P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion
67. P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low
68. P0445 Purge Solenoid High
69. P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error
70. P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low
71. P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High
72. P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low
73. P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low
74. P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High
75. P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High
76. P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive
77. P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive.
78. P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
79. P1511 EFI Power Management Mode
80. P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode
81. P0577 Cruise Control Input High
Priority/DTC/Fault condition
HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module
1. U1300 Serial Data Low
2. U1301 Serial Data High
3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data
4. U1255 Serial Data Error
5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault
6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed
7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error
8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground
9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery
10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High
11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground
12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery
13. B1134 Starter Output High
14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground
17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground
18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery
19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery
20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground
21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery
22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open
23. B0563 Battery Voltage High.
24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low
25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High
26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
I have been having trouble with intermittent starts on my 1989 tour glide, It has been a long time in developing to the point where it wont start even with a full battery charge.
I completely rebuilt my starter motor and starter solenoid, The contacts in the solenoid weren't looking to good.
It is a much simpler operation rebuilding than you might imagine and kits are sold to do the job.
I just replaced the old rocker switches for the start and shut down buttons on the right side handle bars as well as the starter relay which was actually good as it turns out.
The culprits were the two wires that run to the starter.
One comes off the starter relay and operates the exciter switch on the end plugging into the solenoid and the other comes off a main fuse that runs to the positive post on the starter its self.
No visible damage to the wires but they ride under the starter motor instead of over it.
I guess 28 years of vibration must have been to much for them? ( cheap stuff anyway huh? LOL.)
Here is the other trick I pulled off after being 200 miles from home a couple weeks ago and had to get a push start.
When rebuilding the solenoid I drilled a 5/16 " hole in the endcap of the removable solenoid cover, cut the head off a bolt and welded a thin washer to it and ground it smooth.
Next I put an o ring over the bolt, inserted it through the cover and put a flat rubber washer on the outside over the bolt and added one of those concave washers that have rubber bonded to it at the hardware store to form a positive seal to keep water out.
Next I cut an expansion spring to cover the rest of the bolt and put an acorn nut on the threads.
It is a positve hold out even though it doesn't need one ( the starter plunger holds it out) it keeps it from flopping around.
P.s. make sure there is a bit of play in the bolt so you are not holding the starter plunger in a position where it doesn't release after starting.
So pay attention to how thick the washer is you welded onto the bolt and use a thin o ring on the inside of the solenoid cover.
I drilled a hole and put a grommet on the outside chrome starter cover and now I can by pass the ignition switch its self and push in on the bolt and engage the starter plunger by hand.
It even looks good!
no more of this push start crap.
As long as I have a reasonable charge in the battery it will start as long as I have the ignition switch turned on.
Warning, it bypasses the ignition switch so it will operate without the key being turned on, Better have the trans. in neutral for a manual start ok?
You can actually buy a switch such as this off the shelf for newer bikes for about $30.00 and these switches are mounted to the solenoid with three simple screws just by removing your old solenoid cover.
The button simply engages the starter plunger by hand rather than electronically.
The problem is there is a difference in starters beginning in 1990 and the don't make one for my 1989. GO figure?
[FONT=arial black][size=3][COLOR=#0000ff]Finally!! [FONT=arial] I replaced the rear brake light switch. No check engine light, no codes, and rear brake light comes on when pressing rear brake pedal and, and, and the cruise control works as it should.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[QUOTE=grandpawj;486584][FONT=arial black][size=3][COLOR=#0000ff]Finally!! [FONT=arial] I replaced the rear brake light switch. No check engine light, no codes, and rear brake light comes on when pressing rear brake pedal and, and, and the cruise control works as it should.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/QUOTE]
Something to keep in mind, Harley has had problems with these switches and wiring being to close to the exhaust and burning them out.
they supposedly have a cure in a different switch.
My experience?
I had trouble every time I replaced a Harley switch with a Harley switch. it was burning out due to too much amperage draw from the brake system.
CURE?
I went to the auto parts store and bought a brake switch for a car, Screws right in, no more problem.