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Can the Empi rotors be turned at most brake shops? I was wonderingif they could mount them on their machine. I am changing from the stamped mounting brackets to the forged ones. I was thinking about having the rotors turned while I had them off. They aren't perfectly true. My rotors are the 98-1153-b rotors. Any body had theirs turned. Thanks
I think you should make one step at a time. If I remember correctly your rotors aren't out by much. You may have trouble finding someone to turn them simply because of there design. Unlike other applications vw uses the splined rotor. It would be hard to get them as perfect as you seem to want them. Even if they were perfect the way they mount to the axle could introduce a slight run out.
It reads like you have went over a lot trying to solve the issue. I wish I had some solutions for you, but I do not, so I just hope you the best in resolving the issue so you can enjoy your ride.:D
I should try one thing at a time but I usually don't do that. If you read one of my other posts I found the right caliper not fully releasing. I am going to replace both rubber brake line hose and go to the forged mounting bracket which i probably should have done to start with.
The rotors are out but I don't know how much it will hurt. The pads run slightly touching the rotor. Seems like to me after I apply the brakes and let off the warped part of the rotor would push the pad back a little and still run lightly on the rotor. The one on the left is .004 and the right is .006. I may check with a friend of mine down the road about turning the rotors. He had a machine and can do some amazing things. Oh I for got I have some good pads coming. I am gonna get it straighten out. Thanks for the comments.
If you do decide to have them machined, check the thickness stamped on the rotor
There usually is NOT much meat there to properly machine a large run out
Also make sure whoever does the machining to check the run out of his arbor before machining, A bench lathe machines a rotor in the same plane as the arbor, and it will remove lateral runout in the rotor, but not runout that’s on the flange.
to me.......004/.006 seems pretty good for runout.....if you feel a pulsating feed back on your brake pedal...then definitely warped rotor! A small amount of run out will help push back a sticky caliper, so not all bad......my money will be on something loose, flimsy mounts or thin rotors or missaligned components that is allowing a vibration to ocurr. my .02:xzqxz:
The axle nut that holds the disc on is torqued to 217 ft lbs. might want to check make sure they are still up to spec. That would give you odd noises and also ruin the rotor.
[QUOTE=Sidecarbill;597447]The axle nut that holds the disc on is torqued to 217 ft lbs. might want to check make sure they are still up to spec. That would give you odd noises and also ruin the rotor.[/QUOTE]
YES, any thing on the axle can affect run out
Keeping the run out @ or below .003 measured on the vehicle with all parts tight including the axle nut and lug nuts
Preferred method would include a before and after reading with the pads removed
A visual on the pads will give you a heads up ( if a pad is worn @ a severe angle start thinking high run out and or bent and worn parts IE caliper mounts mounting hardware
I live by it don't matter how bad it runs, I wanna stop safe JMO
A side note, in the past acceptable run out was for most rotors .003
Today's rotors are a lot less forgiving measured in ten thousands
I do not know of any brake/automotive shop around me that can turn a disc with small splines.
As sloppy machined the China parts are I would probably leave it and index a few times. Take it off, clean the seat and stick it back on a different toothed. Actually tooth dont seem to matter, it lands differently each time.