[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;587601]That could also affect your timing issues[/QUOTE]
Yes, they told me that too. I consider myself lucky, I found a vintage vw guru to coach me.
Printable View
[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;587601]That could also affect your timing issues[/QUOTE]
Yes, they told me that too. I consider myself lucky, I found a vintage vw guru to coach me.
[QUOTE=kerryb;587602]Yes, they told me that too. I consider myself lucky, I found a vintage vw guru to coach me.[/QUOTE]
Just for grins when you get your vacuum and timing issues sorted out, put a vacuum gauge on your engine
With good steady vacuum you can be safe in knowing your valve train is not broken;)
Back in the old days we set timing with a vacuum gauge when a timing light was not available
Looking for 16-18 in of steady vacuum and NO run on when shutting down
[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;587609]Just for grins when you get your vacuum and timing issues sorted out, put a vacuum gauge on your engine
With good steady vacuum you can be safe in knowing your valve train is not broken;)
Back in the old days we set timing with a vacuum gauge when a timing light was not available
Looking for 16-18 in of steady vacuum and NO run on when shutting down[/QUOTE]
Thanks jack, thats news to me. Any idea where I could read about that relationship between timing and vacuum
Kerry read here, but there are a lot of variables to deal with including camshaft, compression ratio, carbon deposits and leaky gaskets rings and worn valve train
Poor castings, doomed pistons, burned valves the list goes on
Including vacuum advance units leaking, poor centrifugal advance weights
To name a few
Think of the engine as a giant air pump, air in air out
[URL]https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-reading-a-vacuum-gauge/[/URL]
good article...several times, swapping around timing covers and vibration dampers we ended up with no timing marks or marks that were misslocated. I read somewhere, yrs ago, how to set ign timing with no timing marks available......at idle, advance distributor untill max steady vacuum is reached, then retard timing to take 1 in. of vacuum of the gage. I believe the vacuum advance diaphram was disconnected during the procedure. Over the yrs I have found many old vacuum advance diaphrams to be leaky, so always test with a vacuum pump tool!
[QUOTE=LarryA;587692]good article...several times, swapping around timing covers and vibration dampers we ended up with no timing marks or marks that were misslocated. I read somewhere, yrs ago, how to set ign timing with no timing marks available......at idle, advance distributor untill max steady vacuum is reached, then retard timing to take 1 in. of vacuum of the gage. I believe the vacuum advance diaphram was disconnected during the procedure. Over the yrs I have found many old vacuum advance diaphrams to be leaky, so always test with a vacuum pump tool![/QUOTE]
;) Larry, I still believe in Old School ways like in your post
I would add a healthy test ride and pull the plugs and read them
I know a lot of folks are gona say you cant read plugs with this crappy gas, Yeah you can, it is a bit tricky but can be done;) If you pay attention you can see the timing on the plug
[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;587657]Kerry read here, but there are a lot of variables to deal with including camshaft, compression ratio, carbon deposits and leaky gaskets rings and worn valve train
Poor castings, doomed pistons, burned valves the list goes on
Including vacuum advance units leaking, poor centrifugal advance weights
To name a few
Think of the engine as a giant air pump, air in air out
[URL]https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-reading-a-vacuum-gauge/[/URL][/QUOTE]
Thanks Jack, this furthers my knowledge quite a bit. I'm looking forward to my parts arriving and this engine running properly again. Just wish it didn't take 5 days to get something. I'm even buying spares I don't need yet, just in case because I hate "downtime "
Wow, what a difference a leak makes. New intake gaskets and boots, followed by a carb adjust cured all the issues. Next item on the list is lighter throttle spring to ease wrist fatigue.
Good job Kerry;)
Well, 500 miles later and I'm putting a new end on my "new" accelerator cable! Made the cable from tandem bicycle brake cable. Cable frayed and broke about 1/8" from the grip tube, guess I need a stronger/more flexible cable. Will look into that.
Found a tach/speedo combo on amazon for $35.00. [url]https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-12000RPM-Speedometer-Tachometer-Cylinders/dp/B01LZKPEDL[/url]
Had to use the magnets and pick up from the old speedo cause the new one was faulty! Gotta love the new tech, umpteen different funtions and the pickup coil is faulty!
Made a trailer hitch to replace the wheelie bars, so I'm having a counterweight fabricated ( steel plate) to try holding the front down. Wish me luck, pics to follow...