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With the rise in usage of Bluetooth headsets it seems that the 2 communication ports for headsets don't have a real purpose anymore. I am wondering if anyone has repurposed these outlets for a place to plug in heated gear and would a BMW power port fit in the space now occupied by the comms port?
The actual connections for the communication system on motorcycles run through the audio system which carry different voltages and amps than 12v power outlets. You can plug in a bluetooth transmitter to one of the ports and use the on-bike system just like a wired connection to listen to the built in audio. Other than that, wired systems are pretty much obsolete, and are being phased out of new bikes and trikes.
BTW - Be careful if you are adding power ports to the CANbus systems on newer vehicles. If you need more power outlets it is best to go directly off the battery with a switched fuse block that avoids the canbus entirely. Check this link, I posted one on post #6. You can get one ready made, but for less than 1/2 the cost I'll assemble it myself.
[QUOTE=Ozarkryder;631436]The actual connections for the communication system on motorcycles run through the audio system which carry different voltages and amps than 12v power outlets. You can plug in a bluetooth transmitter to one of the ports and use the on-bike system just like a wired connection to listen to the built in audio. Other than that, wired systems are pretty much obsolete, and are being phased out of new bikes and trikes.
BTW - Be careful if you are adding power ports to the CANbus systems on newer vehicles. If you need more power outlets it is best to go directly off the battery with a switched fuse block that avoids the canbus entirely. Check this link, I posted one on post #6. You can get one ready made, but for less than 1/2 the cost I'll assemble it myself.[/QUOTE]
Your link didn't come thru and I would be interested in reading the info. What I am looking at doing is replacing the comms receptacle with a power outlet in it's place and I would be going straight to the battery. Does anyone know of a part that would fit in that hole?
Thanks.
Kurt
This is an interesting idea.
I would think that there would be a part out there that would fit in the hole.
The only problem I can see is will that part be the right configuration for whatever you want to attach to it, heat gear is a prime example or whatever.
I will be watching to see wat other come up with and maybe doing some research.
Bob
[QUOTE=Ozarkryder;631436][COLOR=#0000cd]The actual connections for the communication system on motorcycles run through the audio system which carry different voltages and amps than 12v power outlets. You can plug in a bluetooth transmitter to one of the ports and use the on-bike system just like a wired connection to listen to the built in audio. Other than that, wired systems are pretty much obsolete, and are being phased out of new bikes and trikes.
BTW - Be careful if you are adding power ports to the CANbus systems on newer vehicles. If you need more power outlets it is best to go directly off the battery with a switched fuse block that avoids the canbus entirely. Check this link, I posted one on post #6. You can get one ready made, but for less than 1/2 the cost I'll assemble it myself[/COLOR].[/QUOTE][COLOR=#000000]
[/COLOR]Don't know what happened to the link, so here is a diagram of the fusebox and solenoid as I put it in the Road Hawk. The diagram is the basic set up I have used in the last 7 or 8 bikes/trikes. I put it under the passenger seat in front of the rear fender (which you don't have on the Tri Glide) on my HD FLHS, under the rear seat on the 'Wing and in the front trunk on the Spyder. You can buy a distribution block for $60 or more from places like Electrical Connection, Revzilla, etc. but a fuzeblock and solenoid from the auto store or Amazon shouldn't cost you more than $20 - $25. I prefer a 6 place fuze block that has a cover on the fuses, the one on the Spyder has built in lights that come on when a fuse blows. I use 10 or 12 AWG fused wire for the power to the solenoid and fuse block, 16 AWG primary wire for everything else. I like to use a different color wire for each port, and black for the ground. You can install a ground block if you wish, but I generally find a handy frame bolt close to the port to lessen the run of wire.
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Here is a picture of the distribution block on the Road Hawk. It was very exposed under the trike next to the battery just in front of the right rear wheel. That's why I put it in the plastic box, to keep most of the road debris and wet off the block. All other rides I've put this on have been more protected and not needed to be covered.
[QUOTE=hardwickbv;631522]This is an interesting idea.I would think that there would be a part out there that would fit in the hole.The only problem I can see is will that part be the right configuration for whatever you want to attach to it, heat gear is a prime example or whateverI will be watching to see what other come up with and maybe doing some researchBob[/QUOTE]
I don't know where or how big the hole is for the intercom jacks are on the Tri Glide, but places like Aerostich, Gerbing, Warm & Safe (they make Firstgear heated gear) have a variety of outlets for coax, BMW (Powerlet) style and cigarette lighter size and others.
BMW outlet from Warm & Safe-
[IMG]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0015/8970/6821/products/029-bmw-socket-1-4_480x480.jpg?v=1538550466[/IMG]
Coax surface mount from Warm & Safe -
[IMG]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0015/8970/6821/products/coax_panel_mount_3_480x480.jpg?v=1538549901[/IMG]
A smaller surface mount coax from Aerostich, Gerbing has one very similar with a 90° cord from the outlet. -
[IMG]https://smhttp-ssl-26404.nexcesscdn.net/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/295x295/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/6/166_1b.jpg[/IMG]
And of course most are familiar with the cigarette lighter outlet.
There are also adapters to go from one style outlet to another. We have a coax to cigarette outlet from Aerostich -[IMG]https://smhttp-ssl-26404.nexcesscdn.net/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/960x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/1/6/169_1hb.jpg[/IMG]
I also carry one that adaptes an SAE plug (like used on most battery charger/maintainers) to a cigarette lighter outlet.
[IMG]https://smhttp-ssl-26404.nexcesscdn.net/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/295x295/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/6/168_1ha.jpg[/IMG]
That is great info Don. The holes for the comms ports are approx 7/8 to 1 inch in diameter. Is there a site where I can look up specs on these different outlets? I like the fuse block idea and have one available.
Thanks.
Kurt
I got the images from Warm & Safe accessories page - [url]https://www.warmnsafe.com/collections/accessories-cables[/url]
Gerbing accessories cables and adapters pages - [url]https://www.gerbing.com/accessories[/url]
and the Aerostich heated gear cords and accessories page - [url]https://www.aerostich.com/clothing/heated-gear/cords-accessories[/url]
And there are others - try looking up Heated Motorcycle Gear accessories or motorcycle panel mount electrical ports.
There often are dimensions in the part description on the ports page.
I purchased a BMW style power outlet on Amazon and was able to get it installed this afternoon. It fit directly in-place of the communication port with no drilling. I simply coiled the original harness under the seat until I can find out if I can just unplug it.
After removing the existing harness It was as simple as putting the new outlet in the hole and tightening the nut. It did take a bit of patience to get the nut all the way tight as it was a bit large and hung up. the nut did eventually squeeze into place.
I purchased a weathertight inline blade fuse holder and ran straight to the battery. The terminals I used to plug into the rear of the outlet are jacketed so the poles can't short out. All I need now is some heated gear. That will come next fall.
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