Getting ready to assemble my springer after painting. Looking for the proper torques and procedure to rebuild. Should I use red locktite along with Torquing? Any help would be appreciated.
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Getting ready to assemble my springer after painting. Looking for the proper torques and procedure to rebuild. Should I use red locktite along with Torquing? Any help would be appreciated.
If you can't find application specific values, try searching with google or bing for generic torque values like this chart:
[url]https://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/[/url]
I have a good torque chart for the regular bolts. I am more worried about how tight to set the rocker bolts. So that there is enough tension to allow the rockers to pivot. Also how tight should the springs top nut be. Locktite at a certain torque or bottom the acorn nuts out letting the spring pack act as a lock washer? Thanks for any info or opinion.
Newfie
On the rocker bolts, be sure to use self locking nuts, IE, Nylocks. and on the torque if using self locking nuts add the running torque to the amount of torque value you use.
On the Chopper handbook site, well setting the rocker torque for a lock nut and a acorn nut is 150ft lbs.
The rocker is suppose to have just enough play in it so it rotates freely on it's own. No tire on it and pull rocker up and watch it fall downward. Should be a slow easy movement. They make spacers for shoulder bolts for this reason among others.
The rocker movement is not set by how much torque you apply, it is a calculated free movement using spacers, the torque settings are to hold the nuts on the bolt at a set position. It is how I understood it all.
Hope you the best with this.
Tighten the rocker bolts to allow movement without any binding/sticking, nylon or brass washers between moving parts (no paint). Loctight (blue) or cotter pin. (my older set had cotter pins) A lil siff is ok, a lil loose is not good. The bumps will make it work, check again after a few miles.
Top cap nuts on top of springs can be tightened all the down with a lil loctight. My old set had a regular nut then cap nut to lock, (double nut). My new set has cap nuts only.
my 2 cents, hope it helps
Thanks for the info. Got it back together everything went smooth. LOL. Here is a Couple of Photos of the front and the rim. Rim needs a bit more TLC. Got to disassemble it again. Messed up and gave it few scratches. So it is good training on how to lace and true a painted wheel and spokes. Had got it to a 1 mil (+/-) runout both ways.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]73195[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73196[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73198[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]73199[/ATTACH]
Sorry for the sideways photos. They turned when I uploaded. Got to figure out how to correct that. LOL.
Do you or anyone else on this forum know the make/manufacturer of that Springer? It looks real nice!
Thanks!
At first glance I though china ebay.
But after looking more closely it is not. Even though it is simply made it is also well made. For instance the rocker pivots are machined billets.....not just a squished tube with a hole drilled in it.
The springs are mounted lower than a fork for for a 2 wheeler would be and the rockers are longer also.
So I am gonna say it is a custom built specifically for a trike. Quite possibly by one of the long defunct custom builder outfits.
The probability of being able to purchase one, while not zero.....is approaching zero.
The chances of finding a custom trike shop to build one is slim, but possible.
The chances are much higher of you building one yourself to fit your needs.
Maybe someone knows where to purchase something similar. But as a trike needs considerable less trail and a more robust design......and all tailered to a non production frames geometry it is unlikely any production unit is going to be correct.
The Trike is a Stires Stallion Flat Back by Custom Trikes out of Cali. manufactured by Claude Stires out of Cali till 86 . i can't find any history of who owned it next. Trying to build a history of the trike .
Sorry. Of the Company. Not the trike itself.
[QUOTE=Lost Newfie;850397]Sorry. Of the Company. Not the trike itself.[/QUOTE]
Companies that do title searches can probably for a fee get that info for you..:Shrug:..
How did you take and spacers/ bushings out I have a Stires and my springer front needs torn down and painted or polished up but it’s made of square rod and don’t want to flex the ends to drive out
[QUOTE=Happy_89;885956]How did you take and spacers/ bushings out I have a Stires and my springer front needs torn down and painted or polished up but it’s made of square rod and don’t want to flex the ends to drive out[/QUOTE]
Happy’ Welcome to Trike Talk…👍👍..
Welcome to the talk . Good looking spring get end
Here's some info that might help:
[URL]http://scottymoore.net/MC75SCStingerTrike.html[/URL]
[URL]https://www.yellowpages.com/memphis-tn/mip/super-cycle-9830514[/URL]
Supercycle was a big Stires dealer back in the 70's. Ron and Lew were the business guys and Shack was the resident mechanical genius. They're probably all gone now as I am 74 and they were a little older than me. I did a couple of projects with Shack back in '72. Don't know if the shop still exists but it is still listed on the Internet Directories. If there is someone "younger" there still you might be able to get some info on the springer.
[B]Just checked Google street view...Supercycle logo is still on top of building but shop isn't there anymore.[/B]
I have a Stires catalog from '72. If I can find it I'll scan it in and post it here.