HEIM / Spherical Rod Ends PTFE NYLON Isolated Greaseable

Howdy Folks!

Getting into the project 'Planning Stages' of replacing my rod ends on my Motortrike kit. Always like getting ALL the parts before tearing into anything!!

I will be getting under there and double checking, but I am pretty sure I have 1/2-20 threaded ends on both the ladder bars and the track bar. Not sure of the RH/LH end count on the ladder bars.

The ladder bar also has a triangulation setup with... 3/8-24 ends if memory serves. (2) RH and (2) LH threaded.

The track bar is the noisiest one, one rod end is worn. Grease will silence it briefly... then it starts clacking again. Nasty sound, I swore something was wrong in the driveline for quite some time.

Practically speaking, I will buy all the ends, but replace just the track bar ends to start. I really want to see if the track bar is my primary noisemaker.

Originally I was looking for greaseable rod ends, with zerk fittings, but have not found a good source for them. I wonder if they are even needed discovering the nylon/PTFE bushed ends.

Looking at getting PTFE or Nylon insert rod ends, and boots to make regular re-greasing the ball ends a task of the past. Wont need zerks.

Found this site after much searching - [URL]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/products/spherical-rod-end-bearings[/URL]

it has been a joy to 'surf' so far, and they have a listing of what is in stock. Nice.

Looking for opinions on Nylon VS PTFE. Both seem to be available.

This is the PTFE/mild steel construction. ([URL]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/MTML-8[/URL]) States a 9494# static radial load rating.

[IMG]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/image/cache//catalog/mcp/182-500x500.jpg[/IMG]

This is the Nylon/CrMo ([URL]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/MXML-8[/URL]) States a static radial load rating of 16,223#. And the description: ""Application: Our chrome moly rod MXM rod ends are ideal for most automotive after market suspensions such as control arms, end links.""

[IMG]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/image/cache//catalog/mcp/6568-500x500.jpg[/IMG]

Only about $2 more for the nylon/CrMo . BUT.... I have learned bigger isn't always better. Are there any advantages with using PTFE over nylon for my application? Is one quieter? Are they both rated for the use I want them for? Certainly the trike is not even close to 9000#, but thats a STATIC load rating on the part.. :Shrug:

Whatever I do use, I will be protecting them with these boots - ([URL]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/RS500[/URL]) and this will result in a LONG time between rod ends needing greasing, despite me riding in torrential conditions.

[IMG]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/image/cache//catalog/mcp/511-500x500.jpg[/IMG]

********************************************

Not in a hurry to try using this on the ladder bars, but for the track bar. Thats my Noisemaker at the moment. I was very interested in this Isolated rod end. ([URL]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/MMIR-8[/URL]) But.... it shows out of stock. RH and LH Threads. And no weight/strength rating.

[IMG]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/image/cache//catalog/mcp/6812-500x500.jpg[/IMG]

Would consider this style also, ([URL]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/TBM-08R-08-150-ZC[/URL]) . I just have to see if the mounting studs on the axle/frame are that long.... they presently have spacers, need to get in there and do some research. MIGHT even work with the existing tack bar... that would be nice. I would make another track bar if I had to, not quite the difficulty of making ladder bars!!

[IMG]https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/image/cache//catalog/mcp/3759-500x500.jpg[/IMG]

Heck, the last ones I show are about twice the price (~$13 for nylon, ~$23 for the isolated) and also dont have a strength/weight rating. But a grease fitting and a polyurethane bushing... I would make a little teflon grease gun setup just for the trackbar. I have experienced the Urethane 'squeaks' in a few cars, and know the value of those zerks.

So nothing here is gonna break the bank. Just trying to figure out what is 'best'. I am going to get my shopping list together and contact the manufacturer for advice.

But riders with YEARS of experience may know things that the factory doesn't. ;)

Any Thoughts? THANK YOU ALL in advance. :wave4:

250+ looks, nobody with something they want to post. Reading the 'GWRRA going away' you might be right about this being a shrinking group of folks! :( See what next week brings...

Was under the trike for some quality time today.

It has (2) 5/8 RH rod ends with .625 openings on the front of the ladder bars.

It has (4) 1/2 RH rod ends with .500 openings on the rear of the ladder bars.

(1) RH and (1) LH 1/2 rod ends with .500 openings on the track bar.

(2) RH and (2) LH 3/8 rod ends with .375 openings on the ladder bar locating links.

Figuring out some things just from reading all the descriptions. There are two types of nylon inserts. One is injection molded, the other is slotted. The slotted ones have CrMo bodies, and weight ratings. The injected ones have no weight rating posted.

The current ones that came with the trike appear to be steel ball, steel body. I dont see a brass race in them.

I found 5/8" and 1/2" rod ends with Zerk (grease) fittings. No 3/8" with zerks, maybe they are too small for that.

Oddly enough, there is no load rating on the 5/8. There is on the 1/2", 7139#. The originals had a load rating of 6928#.

They do NOT have a LH thread greaseable 1/2" listed, it would be part MSML-8Z. Question for the manufacturer.

So as far as the larger ladder bar rod ends, I could move to greaseable ends, seal them, and *hopefully* have lifetime ends with a shot of moly grease every now and then for maintenance. Use nylon or PTFE 3/8 rod ends and seal them too.

BUT... lets go with non greaseable, PTFE or CrMo/slotted nylon options.

Original 3/8 rod ends have a load limit of 5521#.

CrMo/slot nylon 9771# ($16).

PTFE 5310#($13).

1/2" rod ends. Original load is 6928#.

CrMo/slotted nylon is 16,223# (RH $14, LH $24)

PTFE is 9494#, (RH$13. LH$19)

5/8 rod ends. Original load is 10454#

CrMo/slotted nylon is 19751# ($22)

PTFE is 10350# ($16)

So there IS a slight load limit penalty going from stock to PTFE. 100#, nothing I would lose sleep over.

Using the poly isolated rod ends on the track bar:

The isolated rod ends will not work on the upper (frame) end of things. There isnt enough room to slip a 1.4" collar on. I will have to decide if I want to spend ~$80 for one of each just to have the parts should I want to have them on hand if I do choose to go with a polyurethane bushed track bar. Or possibly get (2) RH thread, and use one on the axle end of the track bar, with a PTFE or CrMo/nylon on the upper end where it is tight clearance. Might add enough flex to the system to slow the wear and/or noise.

Having both the track rod AND the 'centering rods/diagonal link' setup does induce a bind during travel. One of the 3/8 rod ends on the ladder bar locating links has worn. That's new. I wonder if taking out the play from the track bar is causing more stress on the 3/8 ends. I have had a couple chassis guys look at the setup, and they all have said its odd to have BOTH systems on one setup, because there WILL be binding in the system. They have also ALL said they have no trike experience, and if thats the way it came.... KEEP IT. So... no answers there. Unless Richard or another Motortrike rep is still around, and can drop some wisdom. :Angel:

Hopefully PTFE bushings everywhere will allow enough flex to allow for the 'dual locating' design. The noise in the track bar does lessen as you put more air into the air bags. The rattle is my usual indicator that I should to raise the rear bag pressure. I wouldnt mind a softer, slightly lower ride, hopefully with the new PTFE rod ends I can get that without the excessive noise.

Knowing me... probably will order one or two isolated rod ends just in case. Better to have extra parts than solutions needing parts. :clapping:

So... going to chat with the Rod End manufacturers tomorrow, and see if the PTFE rod ends will fit my needs. If not, see if the CrMo/nylon would be desirable. And check on the 1/2" LH thread greaseable rod end. Popping grease into 8 zerks is not maintenance free, but certainly better than having to take things apart to clean and hand grease them. If the factory feels the PTFE would not give a long life on the ladder bars, the greaseable option is a close second. I would be inclined to use the PTFE on the track and 'ladder locator' bars in this case.

Thats about it for todays progress. Feel free to chime in!

[QUOTE=Volkemon;904134]250+ looks, nobody with something they want to post. Reading the 'GWRRA going away' you might be right about this being a shrinking group of folks! :( See what next week brings...

Was under the trike for some quality time today.

It has (2) 5/8 RH rod ends with .625 openings on the front of the ladder bars.

It has (4) 1/2 RH rod ends with .500 openings on the rear of the ladder bars.

(1) RH and (1) LH 1/2 rod ends with .500 openings on the track bar.

(2) RH and (2) LH 3/8 rod ends with .375 openings on the ladder bar locating links.

Figuring out some things just from reading all the descriptions. There are two types of nylon inserts. One is injection molded, the other is slotted. The slotted ones have CrMo bodies, and weight ratings. The injected ones have no weight rating posted.

The current ones that came with the trike appear to be steel ball, steel body. I dont see a brass race in them.

I found 5/8" and 1/2" rod ends with Zerk (grease) fittings. No 3/8" with zerks, maybe they are too small for that.

Oddly enough, there is no load rating on the 5/8. There is on the 1/2", 7139#. The originals had a load rating of 6928#.

They do NOT have a LH thread greaseable 1/2" listed, it would be part MSML-8Z. Question for the manufacturer.

So as far as the larger ladder bar rod ends, I could move to greaseable ends, seal them, and *hopefully* have lifetime ends with a shot of moly grease every now and then for maintenance. Use nylon or PTFE 3/8 rod ends and seal them too.

BUT... lets go with non greaseable, PTFE or CrMo/slotted nylon options.

Original 3/8 rod ends have a load limit of 5521#.

CrMo/slot nylon 9771# ($16).

PTFE 5310#($13).

1/2" rod ends. Original load is 6928#.

CrMo/slotted nylon is 16,223# (RH $14, LH $24)

PTFE is 9494#, (RH$13. LH$19)

5/8 rod ends. Original load is 10454#

CrMo/slotted nylon is 19751# ($22)

PTFE is 10350# ($16)

So there IS a slight load limit penalty going from stock to PTFE. 100#, nothing I would lose sleep over.

Using the poly isolated rod ends on the track bar:

The isolated rod ends will not work on the upper (frame) end of things. There isnt enough room to slip a 1.4" collar on. I will have to decide if I want to spend ~$80 for one of each just to have the parts should I want to have them on hand if I do choose to go with a polyurethane bushed track bar. Or possibly get (2) RH thread, and use one on the axle end of the track bar, with a PTFE or CrMo/nylon on the upper end where it is tight clearance. Might add enough flex to the system to slow the wear and/or noise.

Having both the track rod AND the 'centering rods/diagonal link' setup does induce a bind during travel. One of the 3/8 rod ends on the ladder bar locating links has worn. That's new. I wonder if taking out the play from the track bar is causing more stress on the 3/8 ends. I have had a couple chassis guys look at the setup, and they all have said its odd to have BOTH systems on one setup, because there WILL be binding in the system. They have also ALL said they have no trike experience, and if thats the way it came.... KEEP IT. So... no answers there. Unless Richard or another Motortrike rep is still around, and can drop some wisdom. :Angel:

Hopefully PTFE bushings everywhere will allow enough flex to allow for the 'dual locating' design. The noise in the track bar does lessen as you put more air into the air bags. The rattle is my usual indicator that I should to raise the rear bag pressure. I wouldnt mind a softer, slightly lower ride, hopefully with the new PTFE rod ends I can get that without the excessive noise.

Knowing me... probably will order one or two isolated rod ends just in case. Better to have extra parts than solutions needing parts. :clapping:

So... going to chat with the Rod End manufacturers tomorrow, and see if the PTFE rod ends will fit my needs. If not, see if the CrMo/nylon would be desirable. And check on the 1/2" LH thread greaseable rod end. Popping grease into 8 zerks is not maintenance free, but certainly better than having to take things apart to clean and hand grease them. If the factory feels the PTFE would not give a long life on the ladder bars, the greaseable option is a close second. I would be inclined to use the PTFE on the track and 'ladder locator' bars in this case.

Thats about it for todays progress. Feel free to chime in![/QUOTE]

Can you give a brief Synopsis?…😉😉..

A timely topic. I had both the track bars, if that's the correct term, off this weekend on my 1999 Valkyrie.

These are the bars perpendicular to the frame. Heim joints were dry, polished, wouldn't really retain any light lubricant, such as spray lube. And they are slightly worn. I loaded 'em up with assembly lube, and put them back on. At least the squeaks are gone, for now. The diagonal bar was also dry and pretty loose. I lubed it with assy lube and tightened it up..... which was a mistake as I took the trike out today and it has a "clunk" on the right side. So much as I hate to do so, tomorrow I'll go back under the thing and loosen the diagonal bar to see if the clunk goes away.

Probably better to replace these heim joints, excluding the ladder bar ends. Considering the load placed on these track bars, I don't know if alternative designs will hold up. I am interested in the direction you go with this thread, and wish I could offer some real world experience. My trike has close to 50K miles on it, and squeaked like hell when I bought it 2 months ago. The previous owner wasn't much for maintenance.

[QUOTE=mr.precision;904230]A timely topic. I had both the track bars, if that's the correct term, off this weekend on my 1999 Valkyrie.

These are the bars perpendicular to the frame. Heim joints were dry, polished, wouldn't really retain any light lubricant, such as spray lube. And they are slightly worn. I loaded 'em up with assembly lube, and put them back on. At least the squeaks are gone, for now. The diagonal bar was also dry and pretty loose. I lubed it with assy lube and tightened it up..... which was a mistake as I took the trike out today and it has a "clunk" on the right side. So much as I hate to do so, tomorrow I'll go back under the thing and loosen the diagonal bar to see if the clunk goes away.

Probably better to replace these heim joints, excluding the ladder bar ends. Considering the load placed on these track bars, I don't know if alternative designs will hold up. I am interested in the direction you go with this thread, and wish I could offer some real world experience. My trike has close to 50K miles on it, and squeaked like hell when I bought it 2 months ago. The previous owner wasn't much for maintenance.[/QUOTE]

OK, just to be sure we are on the same page...

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49466449207_50372d8c4d_k.jpg[/IMG]

Here is what's on my trike.

The bright orange assembly on the right is the ladder bars, along with a diagonal and cross link bars. The Ladder bars both have (2) 1/2" RH rod ends on the rear end, and a single 5/8" RH rod end on the front. The diagonal and cross link bars both have a 3/8" RH/LH pair.

The track bar is parallel and above the rear axle. There is a frame crossmember that is to the left in this pic, the track bar is in the shadows to the right of that. It has a 1/2" RH/LH pair. It is still painted black in this picture, you can see one rod end attached to the frame bracket.

Is your setup similar?

And you state "I lubed it with assy lube and tightened it up..... which was a mistake as I took the trike out today and it has a "clunk" on the right side. So much as I hate to do so, tomorrow I'll go back under the thing and loosen the diagonal bar to see if the clunk goes away."

When you say 'Tightened it up'.... do you mean reduced its overall length? Or tightened up the mounting bolts? THANKS!!

I agree, getting under there with the body on is a task. I use RV levelling blocks to drive up on, gets it 5 inches higher. And rock solid. I can snake around under there on some cardboard pretty well.

*******************************

Chatted with the rod end manuf'r today, did not learn a whole lot. Being a [SIZE=1]small[/SIZE] time order, I was not granted any sort of engineer chat time. ;) The very friendly rep was polite, but refused to say that their product was intended for, or would serve in any application. ESPECIALLY motor vehicles.

SooooOOoooooo... did some more web sleuthing. Found these:

Source - [URL]https://www.newprocess.com/nylon-vs-teflon-washers/[/URL]

"" Teflon, for example, is a hydrophobic material, while nylon is hydrophilic. As a result, any piece of machinery that requires greater lubrication should be constructed with Teflon rather than nylon, since Teflon’s water-repellant properties make it a stronger lubricant. Teflon washers can provide many of the same benefits, but they perform better in certain environments than their nylon counterparts. Because Teflon has a higher melting point, for example, it can better withstand the heat generated by electrical equipment, making it a better choice for applications that require extreme temperatures.Similarly, Teflon’s hydrophobic properties may be useful in any applications that expose components to moisture. While nylon provides some protection against corrosion, it does absorb any moisture that comes into contact with it, which can leave parts less lubricated than they should be.""

Good to know! The rear suspension of my trike have certainly been exposed to moisture. :clapping:

Good info here also. [URL]https://www.aurorabearing.com/pdf/in-rod-we-trust.pdf[/URL]

Wont let me cut-and-paste, but states some load limits for different materials.

They state that:

the compressive strength of a Hardened Steel Ball / Bronze Bushing to be 50,000 psi

the compressive strength of a Hardened Steel Ball / Soft steel bushing to be 10-15,000 psi. (Thats what the trike came with)

the compressive strength of a Hardened Steel Ball / PTFE bushing to be up to 60,000 psi. I found other sources in the 45-60,000 psi range.

Remember the injected nylon rod ends I found, with no load stated? They are 8,000 psi. So out of consideration for this project. But good to know that I am not putting in lesser rated parts using PTFE instead of steel on steel (stock).

I am going to place an order for a set of PTFE rod ends, and see if/what is out of stock. They warned me the online stock indicator may NOT be current. :( I am confident that the PTFE rod ends will be a comparable replacement for the steel/steel rod ends that are there now. I like the water repelling properties of PTFE/teflon, and dont feel I need the extra strength of the slotted nylon ends.

I am also going to get a couple of the elastomeric rod ends, with the thought of having the 'axle end' of the track bar replaced with one of these. This will allow a bit more 'give' in the track bar, and not have it binding during travel with the diagonal/cross locating links on the ladder bars. I am pretty sure that is the condition it is in now. But 'step one' will be replacing ALL the existing rod ends with PTFE ends, and see how they perform and how long they last. I suspect the 3/8 rod ends will take the brunt of any binding damage, and fail first. This will show the need for the elastomeric end on the track bar. If the 3/8 ends hold up fine... well I will let sleeping dogs lie, as they say. ;)

[QUOTE=rhino 2;904165]Can you give a brief Synopsis?…😉😉..[/QUOTE]

Be brief?!?!? :Shrug: [B]Was ist das??? [/B](Wondering)

Seriously... can you tell I am the son of an engineer? [IMG]https://www.triketalk.com/forum/images/smilies/clapping%20smilie.gif[/IMG]

Well Sure! Will try...

There are several rod ends used in the rear suspension of my trike.

The originals are a 'steel ball on steel race' construction. They are not self lubricating, and I desire this feature.

There are rod ends with a zerk (grease) fitting for many of the sizes needed, but not all. Some may prefer a zerk fitting over a 'self lubricating' end. I included info on them. I was considering zerk ends, but no longer.

There are replacement rod ends that are available that would be self lubricating. One is Steel Ball on nylon bushing, there are two types. One of them is an injection molded nylon bushing, and not suitable for my purposes. The other is a nylon slotted bushing, which is. The slotted nylon bushing end is roughly twice the strength of the stock ones on my trike.

There is also a Teflon (or PTFE) bushing model. It is comparable in strength to the original. Roughly 5% less.

*****************************************

One more rod end discussed is an elastomeric rod end, using polyurethane bushings similar to the lower shock mount bushings on my trike. I am discussing these because they may be good for use in the track bar, should I need more allowance for flexing in the suspension to prevent binding.

The possibility of binding appears present because there are two methods of keeping the rear axle centered on my trike. Usually only one is used, as they will 'fight' each other as the axle moves up and down. There may be a good reason for this use of the two together, however. I have not been able to find that out. Knowing the original manufacturer sometimes is present on this forum, I hoped they might reply and enlighten.

I close by stating a couple plans of action, and invite comment.

Hope that helps.

If requesting a summary was just sarcasm, that's cool too, next time please follow it with ' /s ' so it is more obvious. ([url]https://www.reddit.com/r/NoStupidQuestions/comments/1rdj3t/what_is_the_meaning_of_s/[/url])

Thank you for the detailed information.

I believe we have the same setup. One track bar located above the axle, one diagonal bar, one cross link bar up front.

All had the [U]mounting[/U] bolts plenty tight. The diagonal bar had the nuts on the heim joints loose. When I referred to "tightening" the diagonal bar, I shortened it to take up what I perceived to be "slack". You can still rotate the bar on the spherical joints by hand, so it's not THAT tight. Now I have "clunk" on the right side when compressing the right side suspension. Perhaps it's binding, so I will lengthen it a bit and see if that helps.

One thing is certain - the cross link bar in the front of the suspension has both heim joints slightly worn. The diagonal bar is slightly worn. I will replace all 6 heim joints when I make up my mind when and how. I am 70 and really don't do so well underneath the bike working on it.

I appreciate your information and comment.

Mike

[QUOTE=Volkemon;904243]Be brief?!?!? :Shrug: [B]Was ist das??? [/B](Wondering)

Seriously... can you tell I am the son of an engineer? [IMG]https://www.triketalk.com/forum/images/smilies/clapping%20smilie.gif[/IMG]

Well Sure! Will try...

There are several rod ends used in the rear suspension of my trike.

The originals are a 'steel ball on steel race' construction. They are not self lubricating, and I desire this feature.

There are rod ends with a zerk (grease) fitting for many of the sizes needed, but not all. Some may prefer a zerk fitting over a 'self lubricating' end. I included info on them. I was considering zerk ends, but no longer.

There are replacement rod ends that are available that would be self lubricating. One is Steel Ball on nylon bushing, there are two types. One of them is an injection molded nylon bushing, and not suitable for my purposes. The other is a nylon slotted bushing, which is. The slotted nylon bushing end is roughly twice the strength of the stock ones on my trike.

There is also a Teflon (or PTFE) bushing model. It is comparable in strength to the original. Roughly 5% less.

*****************************************

One more rod end discussed is an elastomeric rod end, using polyurethane bushings similar to the lower shock mount bushings on my trike. I am discussing these because they may be good for use in the track bar, should I need more allowance for flexing in the suspension to prevent binding.

The possibility of binding appears present because there are two methods of keeping the rear axle centered on my trike. Usually only one is used, as they will 'fight' each other as the axle moves up and down. There may be a good reason for this use of the two together, however. I have not been able to find that out. Knowing the original manufacturer sometimes is present on this forum, I hoped they might reply and enlighten.

I close by stating a couple plans of action, and invite comment.

Hope that helps.

If requesting a summary was just sarcasm, that's cool too, next time please follow it with ' /s ' so it is more obvious. ([URL]https://www.reddit.com/r/NoStupidQuestions/comments/1rdj3t/what_is_the_meaning_of_s/[/URL])[/QUOTE]

Sarcasm not ?. It’s more like amazement I’m lucky if I can put two sentences together and make it coherent for people to understand !.. Me being a southpaw and Dyslexic I’m simply amazed how some people can type or for that matter hit the right keys on a keyboard let alone on a piano or strum a guitar…..🤔..When I get a box of parts I use the instruction sheet(s) to clean the windshield of my Trike..I just lay the parts out and visualize where they go so by the Second time I have to put the parts together I become an expert…😉..

Hi Mike!

I know I can get long winded, but glad the information helped.

The 'conflict' between the diagonal bar and the track bar is exactly the concern I have. According to both of my resources for building ladder bar suspensions, you either have one or the other for your locating system in drag cars. Not both.

I would be leery of 'taking up slack' by adjustment of either the diagonal link or the track bar.

*IF* everything is in correct adjustment, I would think you would be better off with a bit of 'centered' slop in the links, as opposed to lengthening / shortening them to take up slack. The new sound you are getting might be an indicator of that.

How do you raise up your trike to access the track bar, etc?

Got to get some items off the 'honey do ' list today or suffer the wrath of SWMBO. She has been MOST patient as this 'brief break' turned into posting...AGAIN...on that trike site.. :clapping:

Hope to get the email order in for the ends later on today.

[I]*IF* everything is in correct adjustment, I would think you would be better off with a bit of 'centered' slop in the links, as opposed to lengthening / shortening them to take up slack. The new sound you are getting might be an indicator of that. [/I]

Yes, this is what I was thinking. I will try to "center" all three bars today, and see if it makes any difference.

I use a jack to lift the rear of the trike at the receiver hitch. Jack stands then go under the axle just inboard of the wheels. I leave the jack snug against the carrier as a back-up. Can't say it's easy at my age to crawl under the thing but that's the way it is. I want to take the wife for a drive and need to resolve this issue first.

Thanks for the insight. I'll report back when I play with the bar settings today.

Would love to have 3W lonerider chime in as he has plenty of experience with this set-up.

[QUOTE=mr.precision;904396][I]*IF* everything is in correct adjustment, I would think you would be better off with a bit of 'centered' slop in the links, as opposed to lengthening / shortening them to take up slack. The new sound you are getting might be an indicator of that. [/I]

Yes, this is what I was thinking. I will try to "center" all three bars today, and see if it makes any difference.

I use a jack to lift the rear of the trike at the receiver hitch. Jack stands then go under the axle just inboard of the wheels. I leave the jack snug against the carrier as a back-up. Can't say it's easy at my age to crawl under the thing but that's the way it is. I want to take the wife for a drive and need to resolve this issue first.

Thanks for the insight. I'll report back when I play with the bar settings today.

Would love to have 3W lonerider chime in as he has plenty of experience with this set-up.[/QUOTE]

i'm here. i would love to talk on the phone instead of writing a 3 page summary if ya know what i mean. phone number 717-414-6142 any evening from 5 pm to 9 pm. works eastern time. i see your online now so if ya wanna talk i'm available now

NO reply to my email. :( Guess I will just try ordering, and see how it goes. BEAUTIFUL riding weather... finally. :clapping:

[QUOTE=3W-lonerider;904425]i'm here. i would love to talk on the phone instead of writing a 3 page summary if ya know what i mean. phone number 717-xxxxxxx any evening from 5 pm to 9 pm. works eastern time. i see your online now so if ya wanna talk i'm available now[/QUOTE]

Sorta defeats the whole purpose of a forum... right? But thanks for the offer to help. :Angel:

[QUOTE=Volkemon;904725]NO reply to my email. :( Guess I will just try ordering, and see how it goes. BEAUTIFUL riding weather... finally. :clapping:

Sorta defeats the whole purpose of a forum... right? But thanks for the offer to help. :Angel:[/QUOTE]

ok. is there specific questions that i can answer.

Centered up the three bars yesterday..... pretty easy to locate the sweet spot. Didn't make any difference. One of the heim joints on the front cross bar is not retaining any grease and squeaking again, so definitely need to replace that.

I'm gonna call 3W this weekend with some questions and write up a summary here.

[QUOTE=mr.precision;904777]Centered up the three bars yesterday..... pretty easy to locate the sweet spot. Didn't make any difference. One of the heim joints on the front cross bar is not retaining any grease and squeaking again, so definitely need to replace that.

I'm gonna call 3W this weekend with some questions and write up a summary here.[/QUOTE]

if your question is about the heim joints on both ends of the ladder bars. i would not go with ones that have grease fittings in them. mainly because of where they have to install that fitting. the fitting is on the outside case

because the case is not thick or wide the grease fitting and hole makes the case weak in that spot for high tension. i work on aerial equipment and years ago they used to put grease fitting on the tie rod ends. most of those tie rod ends failed because they broke right where the grease fitting was installed.

now if you wanna install the cross rod ends with grease fitting i wouldn't see an issue with that because they are not under alot of stress. the front heims and the four mounting the rear to the ladder bars are high stress. iv'e also found 2 lubricants that work well with motortrike heims. iv'e sprayed mine with cable and chain lube with good results. iv'e also sprayed them with a silicone spray, the silicone spray goes on wet then drys. creating a lube that doesn't hold alot of dirt with it. we use the silicone spray on extendable axles so the dirt doesn't get stuck to the axles and chew up wear pads..

if there is anything else you can think of. i will try to answer it.

After being sick for a month, I finally replaced the heim joints on my 1999 Valkyrie with motortrike conversion. I replaced everything but the ladder bar joints, which appear to be in good shape.

First of all, thanks to Rick (3W-lonerider) for suggestions and advice. Here's a few things I have learned from this small project:

1. If your heim joints squeak, they are [U]worn out[/U].

2. If you can feel any play, side to side or up and down, the heim joints are [U]worn out[/U].

3. You should periodically check that all the nuts on the heim joints are tight. I had several, on both the track bars and on the ladder bars, that were loose.

4. Use silicon spray to periodically lube the joints. I used assy lube on the old joints to get rid of the squeaks... in hindsight that's probably a poor choice for a new joint.

5. I bought replacements from Motortrike through a local dealer. Parts cost about $90. I called MT and got their part numbers, then called the local dealer and ordered them.

6. New joints were installed with the bars being easy to rotate through the movement of the spherical joint without resistance. Too tight (too short or too long on the track bars) is no good. Just tighten the nuts to allow free movement of the bars.

60 mile test ride followed. No squeaks, no rattles, no difference in the way the trike tracks down the road. So i think the project was successful. Probably took me 3 hours to do, but I am pretty slow.

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TMI. Put a poll up.

I have freinds like you, i annoy them regularly, with picking out something new to build, and not having cad drawlings, best of luck

extremely happy you got everything in place and working well. you did a damn good job.

SO glad it all worked out! I dont think 3 hrs is too bad a time at all. Not like you are on flat rate.

Its festival season here, and doing video has left me with no trike time. But loving the work... it was SLOW these past couple years.. good to be back to live music.

HAVE FUN!!!

I have a gl1800 with a motor trike conversion. My rear end is lower on the right side by close to an inch. I have checked my cross bars and they are both easily movable with thumb and finger. I understand I need to disconnect the ladder bar on the lower joint on the low side and unscrew it a couple of turns. Will that be enough to raise my 1 inch or so. I just installed the larger air bags and have been very pleased with them. What should I run my shocks on . Now I have them backed off all the way. I am thinking two clicks. Thanks for the info....Oh I do have a solid axle.