Synthetic oil

I don't like the truth either, but I'm guilty for not putting 2 and 2 together earlier. However, synthetic oils are known for less gripping when clutching. This customer always uses synthetic oil. I've seen others, and thinking back, they used synthetic oil too. This one is a 2 whl GL1800 with 53k. A clutch that grips less means more time in the friction zone. More friction causes more heat, which causes uneven surface, causing more heat, and enough heat causes clutch plates to warp. The blueing represents heat. His clutch plates are not yet warped.

Below is a pictures one of his clutch plates. He reports using Amsoil.

Here are some things a rider can do to lesson his chance of clutch failure.

- no slow racing

- fast clutch action

- at a stop on a hill, do not feather the clutch to keep position. Use the brake.

- no drill team maneuvers

- do not trailer

- do not use synthetic oils

[ATTACH=CONFIG]45828[/ATTACH]

I have used AMSOIL motorcycle oil in the three GL1800s I have owned first one had nearly 60,000 on it when I traded it. Second one had 120,000 and I'm coming up on 25,000 on number three. I pull a fairly heavy trailer quite often and have been know to be less than kind to the transmission. There must be some other reason for the failures you are seeing. I just do not see the AMSOIL (no affiliation) having any negative effect.

That looks like a classic case of owner accelerating before they have released the clutch lever. :gah::xszpv: :xszpv:

[QUOTE=Gold Rush;472840]There must be some other reason for the failures you are seeing.

[/QUOTE]

It was actually my transmission guy who reminded me of the known issue when using synthetic oil.

I'm sure there are more, but as stated above, any these can contribute to burnt clutch plates. Also, "can" is not the same as "will". As with your experience, I know many with much higher mileage and using their Wing like you and using synthetic oil too, who have never had a clutch go bad. For me, I had a clutch fail at 22k trying to win a slow race. At the time I was using Honda's semi-blend synthetic.

[COLOR=#333333]- no slow racing[/COLOR]

[COLOR=#333333]- to much time in the friction zone[/COLOR]

[COLOR=#333333]- at a stop on a hill, do not feather the clutch to keep position. Use the brake.[/COLOR]

[COLOR=#333333]- no drill team maneuvers[/COLOR]

[COLOR=#333333]- do not trailer[/COLOR]

[COLOR=#333333]- do not use synthetic oils[/COLOR]

Yes, I agree Greg... Probably way more synthetic users never suffer the ills you speak of. That is why I mentioned there must be other contributing factors. You mentioned several things I have to admit I do not do so they are probably very valid and I to would recommend steering clear of.

It's sort on coincidental that you mention the AMSOIL as a possible contributor when the synthetic oil lubricating ability and my riding style is exactly why I chose to start using AMSOIL... Go figure... :) :xszpv:

I mentioned Amsoil, in hopes that some won't think that it's caused by a "cheaper" synthetic. It's also relative to the situation in the sense that it's what he says he uses.

[COLOR=#231F20][FONT=Helvetica Neue] It provides excellent performance in motorcycle engines that are designed with a common engine/transmission lubrication system. Mobile 1 T4[/FONT][/COLOR]

Here's a question on this.

Is your transmission shop comparing all synthetic oils, auto & MC, or only MC oil? I have several friends who against my "begging" put conventional automotive synthetic oil in their bikes and just won't listen when I tell them they ARE DIFFERENT (they don't believe me about the friction modifiers used in MC application oil).

[QUOTE=trike tech;474768]Here's a question on this.

Is your transmission shop comparing all synthetic oils, auto & MC, or only MC oil? I have several friends who against my "begging" put conventional automotive synthetic oil in their bikes and just won't listen when I tell them they ARE DIFFERENT (they don't believe me about the friction modifiers used in MC application oil).[/QUOTE]

Yep.... Very hard to explain that fact to cheep people.....:laugh:

Most if not all manufacturers recommend & install synthetic oils in their high end offerings. Not sure about Honda, but I'd be willing to bet they have a synthetic product or two with their logo on it.

Synthetic lubricants have been proven superior over conventional in many studies over many years.

Trouble is, someone comes along & claims they've been harmed by using a synthetic product in their machine. Did they have the alleged damage analyzed in a professional laboratory facility, or by some backyard "pro"?

Amsoil in particular, will pay for any repair to a machine for damage caused by a lubrication failure due to use of their product. That's pretty impressive, as I've not heard any other lubricant manufacturer make that claim. Guess that's why I'm sold on Amsoil for all of my motorized vehicles & shop equipment that uses lubricants...

I agree 100%.. As I type, my son is on his way here to spend a few days with me. He went by the AMSOIL warehouse in Dallas Tuesday and picked up my most recent order.. I've been a preferred customer for many many years and expect will remain so. :xszpv: :xszpv:

I have a 2003 Road King (95 inch big bore, stage 2 intake. Vance and Hines Pro-pipe, Commander box) with 21000 plus miles on it. It sat in a garage in Portland, Oregon for 4 years (domestic squabble). Rode it home to Amarillo over 5 days and 2100 miles. Researched oil on line. Prices, dealer stuff, propaganda, etc. Amsoil was the standout leader, but was also right at the top of the list. Tried Castrol 4-T Full Synthetic. Engine has temp gauge on the filler cap. Across the desert (two up) got up to 221 degrees. With the Castrol, running cycle patrol with Shriners, the stuff went to 242! Changed to the HD stealer oil. Too much and too HOT. About 220-225 around town alone.

VERY wordy but true information. I'm a bit anal! I remembered back to when I changed the oil for my first time, it was all really clean and clear. Still changed it because I didn't know what it was and added a HD filter. Gas mileage since I got it home had gone down substantially. I reset the Power Commander for my altitude and such. Still not much to right home about on performance and mileage. What the heck! Then I recalled the mileage and temperatures on the motor coming home! Could it have been the oil :confused:? I called the guy in Portland! He is an AMSOIL distributor!! [COLOR=#ff0000][U][B]THE OIL WAS AMSOIL![/B][/U][/COLOR]:gah:!!!!![COLOR=#ff0000]

[/COLOR]I bit the bullet and bought AMSOIL 20 W 50 for the engine, special transmission lube from AMSOIL, and the AMSOIL primary side special for the clutch, and the AMSOIL filter. [U]Best thing I ever did for me and my Harley!![/U] Temperature on engine around town is now about 190 -200. SHRINER stuff in parades pushes it up to 220 or so with all the idling and clutch sipping and all. Out of fear, I pull the cam cover and checked the fiber cam chain tension blocks. They look almost NEW! Very faint line on both. What else can I say. My motor runs cooler. My clutch is just fine. My transmission shifts smoother, quieter, and less clunk, and the gas mileage is back and the bike [U]just runs better[/U]! Might be my imagination, maybe NOT!

AMSOIL ROCKS! [SIZE=1]{this is not a paid solicitation}[/SIZE]

Im not an Amsoil seller but have used it on occasion. I wouldnt bang on synthetic oil. Other parts you could enter in the equation are did he have Kury iso grips and wide clutch and brake levers. Ive seen owners with both and they have the clutch adjusted so close to the handlebar grip you can hear the trans banging as they look for neutral and they dont get what theyre doing to the trans and clutch. Not all owners will tell you the complete truth or with all the miles on thre bike they mightve forgot the time that either started or caused the issue. Im going to look at the owner here and not the oil.

Never wasted my money on synthetic oil. Regular oil is just fine, especially if it is changed regularly. Never heard of a Goldwing engine suffering failure on regular 10-40. I know guys that use synthetic, but they change it every 3000 miles. Why? I thought synthetic was suppose to last longer. Guess it is all what folks want to spend their money on. But as far as benefits, I don't think there are any.

Well, with the cost of synthetic oil going down, it is just as cheap to use as regular oil. One thing I love about synthetic oils is, no worries if you miss a change you got to about 15,000 miles away if you want. Don't have to worry about the oil sitting in your trike all winter long, it won't break down like some of the old oils did, I am sure the newer versions don't.

I gues, I love the piece of mind.

From another web site the hard core rides say they use synthetics because they don't have to worry about oil break down, whatever that is! LOL

I am speaking about people who have about 250,00 miles on their Goldwings and never had the heads off...I think I am doing great at 64,000, but it is peanuts to these guys..I really think they live on their rides. Talk about iron butts, Whoa!

Shell T-6 Rotella, that's what I used for years.

Rosy

[QUOTE=FRR;474999]Never wasted my money on synthetic oil. Regular oil is just fine, especially if it is changed regularly. Never heard of a Goldwing engine suffering failure on regular 10-40. I know guys that use synthetic, but they change it every 3000 miles. Why? I thought synthetic was suppose to last longer. Guess it is all what folks want to spend their money on. But as far as benefits, I don't think there are any.[/QUOTE]

Why change it every 3 thousand! A lot of people feel that if it makes me feel better 'Than it makes my engine feel better 😀📞