VW Mid Engine Trike

This is a VW Trike a friend bought for $500. It wasn't running and NOTHING worked. I tore it down and once I go through and rebuild the engine and transaxle will start rebuilding it. The picture shows the body flipped around as I want to convert it to a mid engine. (The red rag in the bag sits on top of the neck which will be removed.) Now for my first question, has anyone made an extension or spacer between the front of the transaxle and rear of the engine? I need to move the engine forward 15" for my idea. Fabricating a spacer from many pieces of tubing isn't a problem, but the "driveshaft" is.

Anyone done or know how this is accomplished? Swiss mid engine trikes appear to use a second transaxle case for the spacer, but no details on extending the tranny shaft to the flywheel. I plan to hit the local machine shops about turning one with external and internal splines.

And to those that say I'll end up with one forward and four revers gears, it has the transaxle with plates on both sides so I can flip the pinion gear over. Not sure why the image rotated 90*...

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Rickus Dickus Welcome to trike talk.....look for the threads by "death by snu snu" right here on this vw forum, I believe he used the double case mid engine design. check out his build! Larry

welcome aboard Hugh. we have a small group of very knowledgeable VW trikers. I hope they can jump in here and get you going.

Pm me or hit me up on Facebook.

I can hook you up with the info.

Also go though my Anyone Else thread to see one built.

[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;536283]Pm me or hit me up on Facebook.

I can hook you up with the info.

Also go though my Anyone Else thread to see one built.[/QUOTE]

Reading the thread......

Tore into the engine today. Bringing the block to a machinist late next week since that dang flywheel nut kicked my butt up one side and down the other. With luck they will have a BFIW ( Big Frigging Impact Wrench) and spin it off for me. Did measure the bore and stroke coming up with 1597cc. I do like the heads comming with their build in carrying handles too!

When I open the transaxle to flip the pinion gear to the other side, is there anything I should check/inspect?

Set the backlash and I would check the swipe pattern.

You have an irs or a swing?

If it's irs change the stub axle seal.

If swing change the axle end seals.

It's a swing arm for now. The swipe pattern is making sure the contact area on the pinion gear is centered, right?

A swing is easier to make the rear suspension for.

If you are keeping the stock side plates it will not be so hard to do.

Set the backlash first. Move shims from one side to the other as needed. Checking the swipe will just insure a good contact. Most likely it will be ok unless the gears are worn. A little loose on the backlash is where they usually land to get the swipe centered on used gears.

The main thing is not to tight and not terribly loose and the swipe to NOT be only on the tip edges of the gears.

The gears are helical not hypoid. Easy.

Now that is looks I have the flu, I get to sit and do NOTHING! Been thinking about the VW Trike and have a few questions:

1) To Death by SnuSnu. Would grooving the main and connecting rod bearings provide any benefit in a stock engine?

2) To anyone. Any issues with using the original dual port intake manifolds with dual Mikuni carbs?

3) To anyone. I am changing the points out for an electronic distributor. Would adding vacuum advance help with reliability even though the existing distributor doesn't have one?

4) To anyone. Is there a "kit" available with J-tubes and other pre-bent tubing which allows you to run an exhaust yourself?

1)

No. Do not groove rod at all ever. The only sticker with internal grooved mains was the early 1500 with the straight drilled crank. The other stock cranks are cross drilled with external grooved bearings.

2)

I suppose you could make a way to use stock end castings. You will have to make all the other pieces. Will not be easy to tune....but can be done....I have done worse. I have run a mikuni on a lawnmower engine (racing go kart)

3)

A correct vacuum advance makes a smoother street engine. The 009 and its clones was originally an industrial unit. Crank up and run 3750 all the time. No need for the dynamics of road driving. The 009 works fair at best and is the only game if you do not have the ability/provisions for a vac advance. So a vac advance would have roughly the same idle timing and full speed timing so is not measurable increase. The difference is how the timing comes in and behaves. A 009 usually has a big flat spot coming up until rpm gets up there.

4)

Not that I know of.

I have bought several j tubes and cut them.

BadAssTrikes has a front-mounted vw frame & pieces like adapter plates, jackshafts, exhaust, etc.

Bad ass trikes went out business quite a long time ago.

He could not sell enough and gave up and went back to a regular job. He is hard to get in touch with, works a lot, busy with family, not worried about cycles......

If

You can get him he might have a left over piece or two still laying about.

I know the person who said they got his last frame.

Also know someone who said they got his last book.

If you need info about how to make the parts then look me up. I do not make stuff to sell. But I will share any knowledge I have collected.

Thank you for the responses. Once I stop coughing, barfing, and sitting on the porcelain throne, I will be working on rebuilding the engine. Then mocking up a frame. Even though it isn't mine, I'm getting a bit excited about building a bike from the ground up.

Thanks for setting me straight. I'm a newbie to this forum. I've been a member of the corvair center forum for a few years but some of the guys get offended with me for talking about corvair powered trikes.

I heard about BadAssTrikes a few years ago & thought I'd throw it over to this thread. I just looked them up, looks like Mark Vandamme started business offically in '07 & had trouble by '11. To bad he had to get out.

40 years ago I built a 1300vw tube framed roll cage dune buggy for my high school shop project. It was a fun build, made lots of mistakes but learned to fab & TIG weld. Rebuilt the engine from the ground up. It was a blast to drive, made lots of good memories with my friends riding along. Back then a guy up the street built a front engine corvair trike. He used to ride past our house, it was a great looking ride. The past few years I've been collecting pieces for a trike build, a '69 110hp motor, triple trees, etc.

I'll post more when I get the build going.

The forum looks great! Mike

[QUOTE=corvairtrikeguy;540952]Thanks for setting me straight. I'm a newbie to this forum. I've been a member of the corvair center forum for a few years but some of the guys get offended with me for talking about corvair powered trikes.

I heard about BadAssTrikes a few years ago & thought I'd throw it over to this thread. I just looked them up, looks like Mark Vandamme started business offically in '07 & had trouble by '11. To bad he had to get out.

40 years ago I built a 1300vw tube framed roll cage dune buggy for my high school shop project. It was a fun build, made lots of mistakes but learned to fab & TIG weld. Rebuilt the engine from the ground up. It was a blast to drive, made lots of good memories with my friends riding along. Back then a guy up the street built a front engine corvair trike. He used to ride past our house, it was a great looking ride. The past few years I've been collecting pieces for a trike build, a '69 110hp motor, triple trees, etc.

I'll post more when I get the build going.

The forum looks great! Mike[/QUOTE]

looking forward to following your build.

corvairtrikeguy.......welcome.....like gorilla says , looking forward to your build! always liked the sound of vw's and corvairs. Always wondered if Ralph actually killed the corvair, or was it too different for the american car buyer?? still remember looking at the new 1966 corvair coupe, wanted it...never got it! oh well.....:cool:

Hhmmmmm, not sure who's thread this is now, but I'll keep posting on it anyway. I have the engine torn down to the block and to me, everything looks great. Smooth cylinder walls are a relief but don't know what the bearing look like yet. Still need to break the flywheel nut loose, but trying to shake this flu and stuck home. I'll be replacing the head studs due to one being broken short and one being hit with a grinder. One spark plug is larger in diameter than the other three. I bet it had a helicoil in it which failed and they screwed a spark plug that fit the threads. I think I'll tap them all out to accept the larger plug. The owner saw the engine torn down and I think he is concerned!!

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maybe the heli-coil unscrewed with the plug? lol.....here's to your friend, hoping you don't lose interest in the project! Some folks get nervous when the see their stuff scattered all over the floor! Good luck with the project, and the flu! larry

That odd spark plug......somebody had problems.

Avery good reason to inspect those head for cracks. Especially from the spark plug hole.

Cylinder/piston kits are cheap enough that they are not a worry.

Heads and/or head machining can be pricey.

Internal case machine work such as line boring can be a bit expensive if you do not have a vw shop in town and have to ship the case out.

I'm with Larry on the spark plug. Doesn't look as new as the other 3. Check and see if it has a different p/n on the porcelain insulator. If the same #, inspect the threads closely and you will see the helicoil threads under the gunk. You can probably install a new helicoil with some Loctite and be good.

I'm with Rex on the check the heads for cracks too. Typical cracks are from valve seat to spark plug hole or between valve seats. They can be very obvious or teeny-tiny hairlines so inspect carefully. If they're cracked, scrap the heads. Check out "Need VW type3 DP 1600 heads" thread for pix.

Welcome to the world of old VW engines:gah:.

Finally got the Gland nut off today. Snapped the drive off of my 3/8" ratchet, but got it. Split the engine case in two and a quick inspection found only one problem. The rear crankshaft bearing looks like it tried to spin. Once the block is cleaned up, I'll be examining it and the heads as best I can. That one "oversize" spark plug did not have a helicoil on it, so it makes me believe the prior owner had a helicoil in it, probably came out, and just stuck this spark plug in it to sell the bike.

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Ouch.

Hopefully the case can line bore.

The case has a small raised portion where the pin tried to bend over. Other than that (from what I can see) it looks fine.

I removed the jug bolts and noticed each one has a helicoil in the block. One did come out with the bolt, but other than sitting just above the block, the others look good.

No grooves or damage on the crankshaft and the rod side clearance came up at .012" which is well within the books spec's.

Measured the crankshaft mains at (front of engine to back) 1.573" / 2.165" / 2.165" & 2.166"

The connecting rod journals measured at cyl 1=2.165", cyl 2=2.166", cyl 3=2.165" & cyl 4=2.165"

Since it has been a long day between trying to get rid of this cough, working on my Yamaha trike parts, rebuilding my media blast cabinet, and this VW engine, (a little bit on each one), I'll be bumping these measurements against what my book says about in/out of spec's.

No visually detectable cracks in the heads, but three of the four spark plug holes (including the one oversize diameter plug) have/had helicoils in them. From what I see on the internet about helicoil type thread repair for spark plugs not being an optimal fix, I plan to remove the helicoils and install spark plug repair inserts.

After getting a broken tooth fixed tomorrow (tough spaghetti), I'll get back on cleaning the muck out of the engine block.

Check that bore for the thrust main carefully.

I have not ever seen one with a bearing damaged that bad that the case was not loose on.

A good used case might be stained on the bearing saddle but you can not feel any step to it. No step feel? Then it is time to torque the case and get out the micrometer.

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If you can see or feel a step then it is most definitely bad and needs a line bore.

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Case head stud inserts are a good thing.

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[url]https://dunebuggywarehouse.com/https/vw-type-1-main-bearing-sizing-chart-for-vw-beetle-dune-buggy-engines.html[/url]

Looks like stock bore crank. Need to measure the OD of the bearings (the Bore Measurement referenced in the chart) to see if case has been align bored before. If you're lucky enough to have a virgin case you will have a lot of rebuild options available to you.

The bearings fit nice and tight except in the center. That one slides in and out of place quite easily. Waiting for my new dial caliper to arrive for proper measurment.

Does anyone have a shop or business to recommend sending my engine case to for line boring? Can't find anyone withing 200 miles of my house. Or, directing me to a line boring set/kit that a DIYer can do it himself?

Try these guys: [url]http://neworleansaircoolers.com/[/url]

Local VW clubs are usually great resources.

[QUOTE=vwbug72501;545706]Try these guys: [URL]http://neworleansaircoolers.com/[/URL]

Local VW clubs are usually great resources.[/QUOTE]



Thank you. Didn't think about clubs. Contacting them right away.