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I have several stone chips on my fenders and several paint shops say they won't paint unless the body is removed from the trike???? Does anyone have any instructions on removal of the body? Paint and Honda shops want $1000 and up to do this. Is it that time consuming? Thx
[QUOTE=mrzip;797855]I have several stone chips on my fenders and several paint shops say they won't paint unless the body is removed from the trike???? Does anyone have any instructions on removal of the body? Paint and Honda shops want $1000 and up to do this. Is it that time consuming? Thx[/QUOTE]
Don't know about Hondas......But with the Tri-Glide its not that hard to remove the body, That said it takes two men to lift and move it to a secure spot where it won't get damaged while waiting for the painter to pick it up....So it takes up space in their shop. Then after paint it has to be handled with kid gloves and reassembled! Thats all time and labor!...
I looked on-line and found the installation instructions for my trike kit. Yours may be there too. I'm curious why paint shops need to have the body removed? Do they also want car body's removed before painting them too? Alternatives may be to cover the chipped areas with something like LineX coating or fender bras..... Jim
Tom,
Click the link below and it will take you to Roadsmith's Support Page for Honda trike kits. From there, select the model/year for your kit, then select the installation instructions. It will open a pdf file with multiple pages of step by step instructions and pictures, all of which you can print out. I suggest you print the instructions in color if possible as some of the wiring harness diagrams are shown in color which will be helpful for reassembly.
It is not that difficult, just take lots of pictures, paying close attention to the RS wiring harness and the factory Honda harness/plugs for the tour pack and use tape to label the corresponding wires you have to unplug or cut and re-connect (almost all unplug). Also, pay attention to how the RS trunk release cable is routed from the rear of the trunk up and into the Honda tourpack release handle and how the cable end connects to the release lever mechanism inside of the tourpack.
What year is your bike and what kit do you have?
[URL="http://www.trikeshop.com/support/honda-support/"]http://www.trikeshop.com/support/[/URL]
Randy
[QUOTE=Papa Zook;797894]Tom,
Click the link below and it will take you to Roadsmith's Support Page for Honda trike kits. From there, select the model/years for your kit, then select the installation instructions. If will open a pdf file with multiple pages of step by step instructions with pictures that you can print out. I suggest you print the instructions in color if possible as some of the wiring harness diagrams are shown in color which will be helpful for reassembly.
It is not that difficult, just take lots of pictures paying close attention to the RS wiring harness and the factory Honda harness/plugs for the tour pack and pay attention to how the tour box release cable is routed and how the cable end connects to the release lever in the trunk.
What year is your bike and what kit do you have?
[URL="http://www.trikeshop.com/support/honda-support/"]http://www.trikeshop.com/support/[/URL]
Randy[/QUOTE]I have a 2003 goldwing with a roadsmith trike kit
[QUOTE=mrzip;797920]I have a 2003 goldwing with a roadsmith trike kit[/QUOTE]
Ok, well Im sure you have found the correct link to the pdf for your kit.
Feel free to PM me if you need any help.
[QUOTE=mrzip;797855]I have several stone chips on my fenders and several paint shops say they won't paint unless the body is removed from the trike???? Does anyone have any instructions on removal of the body? Paint and Honda shops want $1000 and up to do this. Is it that time consuming? Thx[/QUOTE]
I could see that. 5 hrs each task (on and off) , and shop rates are easily $100+/hr here.
[QUOTE=cScjhb;797862] I'm curious why paint shops need to have the body removed? Do they also want car body's removed before painting them too? Jim[/QUOTE]
On my motortrike body, there are several areas on it that would be difficult to paint correctly due to the complex angles. I would have to take the seat off at the very least. BUT...these areas are easy to see. AND you are gonna have someone looking at it with 'Eagle Eyes' because they just paid 'WAY too much' for the paint so it better be &^%$# FLAWLESS.... If this came in my bay at a paint shop I would want the body removed also. For the money, bike paint jobs are MUCH more of a PITA than cars.
How many chips, how big?
Before and after using kit from [url]https://touchupdirect.com/[/url]
Nice job!! Did you use the spray?
[QUOTE=tourman;798986]Nice job!! Did you use the spray?[/QUOTE][B]Thank you Sir! [/B] No spray, just used the brush kit and a hair dryer to gently speed drying, some 1000 grit and polish. Most of it was in the kit, primer, base, tint, clear top coat, test strips, some fine sand paper, instructions. Some colors use both base coat and tint, some just have the color in one step. That chip was where some careless fellow threw a door open, looked at it and walked away, I first smoothed the edges of the crater like chip that went into fiberglass, then filled with primer and etc. The fill layers took time waiting to dry. I had a few other places I retouched too. I found the fellow in the restaurant, he was a few bricks shy of a load I think, his dad offered me $50. I just let it go.
Thank you Zook,
I just made a copy of these instructions, "Thinking" of removing my rear end to throughly clean, and check out everything before the riding season begins.....All though my installer did a good job of turning my two wheels into three, I JUST DON'T TRUST HIM, HE'S VERY DISHONEST, AND BILLS ($$$) FOR ITEMS NEVER PLACED ON HIS CONVERSIONS...
Ronnie
[QUOTE=CrystalPistol;798969]How many chips, how big?
Before and after using kit from [URL]https://touchupdirect.com/[/URL][/QUOTE]
[IMG]https://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=93683&d=1607051748&thumb=1&stc=1[/IMG]
[QUOTE=mrzip;799464][IMG]https://www.triketalk.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=93683&d=1607051748&thumb=1&stc=1[/IMG][/QUOTE]
WOW! We get a similar effect from 'love bugs' not getting cleaned off promptly. How did you get so many chips?
My wife gets these, but she tends to tailga.... 'draft people for better mileage' a LOT.
Looking at the texture of the paint, and spending your money :laugh:, I would 'Cry Once' and have the paint done nicely. I see you are in Ohio. Riding season near done? Remove the body pieces (or have the shop do it). Then have the shop smooth, seal and paint them.
The finish will be so fresh it will look wet and smooth. But it is NOT fully cured. Arrange the following storage with the shop if you can (unlikely in most cases).. or if you have storage space. A cheap 'U Store It' 10x10 (maybe a 5x10..) storage unit works well for vault-like storage that you DONT have to worry about traffic in for a couple months. (I know....MO money... I spend your money like a drunk sailor.. :cool: )
WAIT before the buffing. Let those pieces set for as long as you can. A month is a good start, not sure if anything over 90 days would have more benefit. The cold weather might take a longer time, I am a Florida boy. :clapping: You cant really 'over cure' it , so extra time wont harm anything.
You are gonna see that 'wet smooth' clear coat finish drying and shrinking. Small imperfections will surface. The 'wet' look will leave. :(
THEN go have the pieces finish sanded (if needed in spots) and buffed. I had one customer that waited on a dune buggy body to cure for 3 months. THEN we polished it... and that sucker was SO smooth like glass. Waxing the hood area, you could put a polish cloth on it and watch it sloooooowly slide off. Stayed like that too. I saw the car for several years after and it was a gem. (Fiberglass body, epoxy seal coat, base and clear coat finish)
Then the parts go back on the bike, and you now have a fear of parking within 100' of ANY car door. :birgitsgiggle:
Most people/shops dont want(or cant) spend that time with a vehicle out of commission, but if its NOT trike riding weather..... :Shrug: and while the body is off, you can do some inspection/cleaning/maintenance/improvements that may not be practical when the bike is assembled.
I understand that space, family, health ....ALL may not allow this to happen. Just putting it out there. Of course, it WILL take longer and cost more than you think in the beginning. The best stuff always does, that why so many have to settle for less.
But the first time you have people admiring the glass like finish, the time gone by will disappear and you will SHINE with pride in the moment.
[FONT=Verdana]An advantage to removing/replacing the body yourself is the knowledge you will gain about your trike. And bragging rights for doing it yourself. [/FONT]:Angel:
[FONT=Verdana]An advantage to having the shop do that is if there is an 'OOPS' and a scratch (or worse...) happens... ITS THEIR PROBLEM TO FIX. One bad slip while you are reassembling the freshly painted body, and you could see a repair/repaint that eats up that $1000 you saved doing it yourself. [/FONT]:blush: [FONT=Verdana]The tuition at 'The School of Hard Knocks' can be expensive sometimes. Dont be afraid, be aware of the benefits/liabilities of your choices. (AND if the shop does it, and you store the stuff to cure, you will have to get the bodyless trike, and all the pieces to storage and then back later for reassembly. PITA. The shop may NOT want to wait to reassemble also, as they have NO interest in waiting on your dream. Plus they may forget how it goes together....) So you see, there are MANY things that 'get in the way' of a perfect paint job.
TL/DR Paint is easy, that glassy finish that lasts for years is work. Life is hard.
[/FONT]
[COLOR=#333333]My wife gets these, but she tends to tailga.... 'draft people for better mileage' a LOT.
very unsafe practice. Too much debris on roads and pot holes.
[/COLOR]
After my wreck I needed my body redone and most all body shops were dick heads Then I heard about wraps and found a guy to wrap it. He is guaranteeing it for 2 years and said it should last 10 years. And a lot cheaper than paint.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]93736[/ATTACH]
As long as your ok Lee , then it’s a wrap !
[QUOTE=trikeman;799508][COLOR=#333333]My wife gets these, but she tends to tailga.... 'draft people for better mileage' a LOT.
very unsafe practice. Too much debris on roads and pot holes.
[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
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Partially a joke. She does not do it for the mileage, just a terrifically bad habit she has. I agree, and she has gotten better..... if we ride together she ALWAYS has me drive, as she knows I will bi*ch. But I detail her car, and see the new chips, and radiator fin debris so I KNOW she is still doing it when alone.
[QUOTE][COLOR=#333333]Too much debris on roads and pot holes.[/COLOR][/QUOTE]
I go to work 3:30 am and often deal with drunk drivers. Going north on 95 about 80mph with a little 'fart can car' on my a**. I can hear his muffler in my truck, and he is using me for a speed guide. I slow to 70, go up to 90, they stay on my a**. Headlights low, driving lights 2" off the ground. :mad: I only see them when they swerve they are so close.
Next I see a 'Gator Tail' (thrown truck tire tread) ahead. I drift right to 'center' it on my truck, then pull left to narrowly clear it on the passenger side as I go by, over the center line a bit. SUDDENLY behind me is ONE headlight and ONE driving light on a car that is rapidly decelerating. :clapping:SEE YA!
I dont tailgate either.
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[QUOTE=1dn5up;799776]As long as your ok Lee , then it’s a wrap ![/QUOTE]
A wrap might be a good idea if you like to change the look often. @ [B]ItBeMe[/B] - about how much for that? Over a grand?