2002 Trike Shop Roadhawk

Rode my trike the other day. Hadn't rode in a while. I noticed it wanting to come to a stop by itself when I stopped at a red light. Like I was easing up to stop. Felt like the brakes were dragging or something. I got back to the house and sure enough the right side was dragging bad. I let it cool down and readjusted the brakes. I went for a short ride today and it did the same thing. Haven't ever had any trouble before

Is is possible the wheel cylinder is giving me problems. I talked to a guy that has been fooling with VW's for a long time. He said it sounds like the rubber flex line has collapsed. If so I wonder how I would order a line. Not sure of the year. Would it be possible NAPA might have something like that and also a wheel cylinder kit.

Anybody had any problems like this or have any suggestions as to how to trouble shoot. Thanks

I have had more trouble with wheel cylinders and master cylinders rusting up than any other problem.

With our part time use in a toy condensation is a problem here in the humid south.

Check the wheel cylinder first.

As for parts.....

I have absolutely zero luck at local part house.

Napa here is a joke.

I have to get everything mail order / internet.

Do you know what size cylinders you have on the back?

Have you done the super beetle front cylinders on the back upgrade yet?

I don't know which wheel cylinders are on it. Never had the brake drums off either side. I'll go ahead and pull the drum on that side and check the wheel cylinder. I sure hope that's what it is. I can't imagine trying to change a master cylinder. I can't even hardly see it. I agree about the condensation. It has been terrible and can see where no more than I have rode something could have rusted up.

I did buy some wheel cylinders after I first got the trike but never put them on.I looked at the box they are in and it says rear d.23 and a part number of RCCR00139 made by Varga. I am going to check it out tomorrow .Would you know how I can determine what year the trans axle is if I do have to order something. The guy I bought it from gave me a sheet with all kinds of information on it and I can't find it.I'll check the wheel cylinders first. That makes the most sense if they are releasing. Thanks[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;498111]I have had more trouble with wheel cylinders and master cylinders rusting up than any other problem.

With our part time use in a toy condensation is a problem here in the humid south.

Check the wheel cylinder first.

As for parts.....

I have absolutely zero luck at local part house.

Napa here is a joke.

I have to get everything mail order / internet.

Do you know what size cylinders you have on the back?

Have you done the super beetle front cylinders on the back upgrade yet?[/QUOTE]

UPDATE. Just walked outside and put the trike in neutral and it rolls back and forth freely. No brakes dragging. So it must start dragging after I used the brakes a few times because when I got home a while ago it was dragging bad and the drum was really hot. Left side drum was 108 degrees and right side was 320 degrees. I wonder if this could be the rubber brake line. Not letting the fluid release the brake on that side. Just a thought. Thanks again.[QUOTE=starrider1946;498141]I don't know which wheel cylinders are on it. Never had the brake drums off either side. I'll go ahead and pull the drum on that side and check the wheel cylinder. I sure hope that's what it is. I can't imagine trying to change a master cylinder. I can't even hardly see it. I agree about the condensation. It has been terrible and can see where no more than I have rode something could have rusted up.

I did buy some wheel cylinders after I first got the trike but never put them on.I looked at the box they are in and it says rear d.23 and a part number of RCCR00139 made by Varga. I am going to check it out tomorrow .Would you know how I can determine what year the trans axle is if I do have to order something. The guy I bought it from gave me a sheet with all kinds of information on it and I can't find it.I'll check the wheel cylinders first. That makes the most sense if they are releasing. Thanks[/QUOTE]

Well that is a critical clue.

That does reduce the chances of a wheel cylinder.

A collapsing line could do it.

Also a mis-adjusted master cylinder rod could.

If the master does not fully retract where it opens the release port it can "pump up" .

I suppose also if the master had rust it may not fully return.

master rod miss adjusted should affect both wheels...that said, i think the aluminum pucks in the wheel cyl get white corrosion and tend to stick in the bores, just clean them up and clean scum out of bore and should be good ....if pitted bore .then replace my o2

If its a restriction in the line just crack open the bleeder on that wheel. If it now spins freely then its the line. If it doesn't change its inside the brake,wheel cylinder or something else dragging in there.

[QUOTE=Sidecarbill;498209]If its a restriction in the line just crack open the bleeder on that wheel. If it now spins freely then its the line. If it doesn't change its inside the brake,wheel cylinder or something else dragging in there.[/QUOTE]

Some great ideas. I may ride it a little tomorrow and if it starts dragging I'll crack the bleeder and see what happens. Probably check the wheel cylinder also. I hope the master cylinder is ok. It has always had a hard pedal and I think it still feels the same. Has just a little slack in the pedal. I'll keep posting until I find the problem. If it is the line I guess the line for a type 1 beetle is what I need. Thanks for the ideas.

As Larry mentioned, the aluminum pistons in the wheel cylinders tend to corrode very often.

Sidecar is very correct. Crack the bleeder and if nothing changes it's the wheel cylinder. I'm kind of leaning toward that issue vs the collapsing line.

If it is the cylinder and not the line, I would highly recommend changing both as the other side might not be far behind in failing.

It was the wheel cylinder. I rode it this morning and when it started dragging I cracked the bleeder valve and it didn't free it up. Went ahead and pulled wheel and brake drum. The front piston on the wheel cylinder was completely froze up. I believe the rear shoe was getting hung up when I applied my brakes and was causing the dragging. I took the wheel cylinder off, got the piston out and cleaned everything up and put it back together. It seems to be working good. Started raining so I couldn't go for a ride but I believe I got it fixed. I will post when I get to ride to make sure. Thanks for all suggestions.[QUOTE=stinger608;498274]As Larry mentioned, the aluminum pistons in the wheel cylinders tend to corrode very often.

Sidecar is very correct. Crack the bleeder and if nothing changes it's the wheel cylinder. I'm kind of leaning toward that issue vs the collapsing line.

If it is the cylinder and not the line, I would highly recommend changing both as the other side might not be far behind in failing.[/QUOTE]

Anybody had any problems like this or have any suggestions as to how to trouble shoot. Thanks[/QUOTE]

Had similar issues with my newly purchased 02 Roadhawk --- had the brakes changed out to EMPI disc brakes and they work great --- also installed a hydraulic line lock for a parking brake.

Had similar issues with my newly purchased 02 Roadhawk --- had the brakes changed out to EMPI disc brakes and they work great --- also installed a hydraulic line lock for a parking brake.

I have adopted a practice of changing brake hoses every ten years regardless of miles. Rubber does not age well. If you are lucky a hose will collapse and create a dragging brake. If you are not lucky a hose will break and dump the fluid -- all the fluid in a single circuit system. That happened to me on a 1951 Chevy pickup that my grandfather gave me in 1972. Scared the hell out of me and could well have killed me. Those hoses were twenty-one years in service and should have been replaced long before I got the truck. I learned the value of preventative maintenance that day.

I was happy to read that you got all figured out and working again.

Nice tips everyone, now a nice troubleshooting thread for the brake system.

Auto stores can be a pain, but have better luck taking in old parts and getting new ones. Napa here in Fernley is solid, has always gotten me what I needed.

Internet is not that great for me, get more crap that I can not use than what I want, but that is me and my issue.

This is a awesome thread. On a 78 fiat I had front left brake lock up on freeway, pulled over cut the brake line and plugged it, brake was free and I got home that night. The caliper was the issue, but if all possible you should repair brakes in pairs. Do one bake line, do the other, do one wheel cylinder, well you should do the other at the same time. l

Safe riding.