Cheap kits or old part in rebuilt carburator
Okay, I looked at this darn receipt, dated back in 2014, wow, 4 years went bye me.
So it could have been all new parts and the 4 years of sitting in fuel caused them to deteriorate some.
I was going to check and clean needle valves, thought I would look at the in carb inlet filter cone. And the right side was dirty, so cleaned it, went to left side and no fine particles in it "just a hole letting all flow into carb" oh yes I was upset.
Now looking for this filter has been a task, still have not found it, I only can hope they include it in the major rebuild kit that is suppose to have it all. I tried to see it in their pic of the kit, but did not see it actually.
So is this cone shaped inlet filter on the Solex H40/44EIS carb just something we no longer can get ?
I do not want to use any nylon type product in the fuel system, yet that is what this cone shaped filter is made from, or the cellulose type, as not sure how well that last against todays fuel.
So do I just remove this cone nylon filter, trash it, and just find a fine metal screen filter and put in the fuel line at the carb...... I was wondering about just taking out the nipple fitting on the carb and attaching the filter right to the carb?
I can use the threaded port for the filter cap as it has a larger dia. port, and I could just remove the small nipple inlet fitting and plug it off, but it really depends on what fine filter I can find to fit these threaded ports.
Next huge question, the smaller the Micron # ( like 10 ) means a finer screen than say the 100 micron filter ?
to advanced with timing, ran way to hot
So the new cone filters came in, not really needed with the other two inline filters that I installed, but these will filter the fuel after the regulator and before the fuel enters the bowl.
No starting up, almost there, but not doing it. Electronic ignition does have a power source demand, the supply voltage must be strong and solid, so I checked the battery and service was in need.
Still not start, but I got fire and the engine wants to start. So I advanced the distributor a bit more, still not starting but almost running when I have the throttle open. This was a cold start up, so a few more efforts got it going, but still not wanting to idle much. So I shut it off went to the back to check on timing marks, wow, that exhaust pipe was hot for just a minute of running, than I decided to rotate the pulley clockwise bringing the rotor to #1 plug positon, looked at the timing marks, WTF....... I was setting almost 30 degrees BTDC, and this was just to start the engine, something not right....
Called up Kaddie Shack, they did the work on the carbs, after a hour long chat, well educated a bit more now, I found that the Kad's are a bit sensitive to what engine they are on. Okay the simple stock motor and set up requires the Kads to be set up this way basically. Now a stock 1600cc engine and exhaust and intake system, well that requires a certain Jet and Venturi set up for all to run correct. Now take that stock engine and beef it up some, change up the exhaust from stock to headers, move to higher or lower elevations, change bore and stroke some, or just one and not the other, or you put HEMI heads on the engine.
My point is, I learned all this makes a difference in how the Kads should be jetted and if the Venturi should be adjusted. Even ones driving style can effect how all is done, so that is how it was explained to me.
Now the trike sits waiting for help to arrive. Not sure where it will come from, but I do believe I will have to suck it up and figure it out.
Now I do not know all about this engine as I would like, so it was suggested that if I pulled the head off than I could measure things and find out more about what this engine is, thus get the Kads properly adjusted, and hopefully all would be running smoothly again. Any helpful thoughts or advice out there before I take and venture off on such a task ????