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I just purchases a 2012 Spyder RT SE5 and after riding for 30-50 miles and park it I get a really strong fuel smell. I checked the forums on the CAN AM site and others are having the same issue. The fuel cap has been replaced as the OEM suggested and still has the same issue. I noticed they had a recall on the 2013 models but not the 2012 models. Has anyone else had this issue and if so did you find a solution?
When I had my 2011 RT-L I could actually hear the gas boiling in the tank :xzqxz:. I took it to my dealer and they (since this is a known problem) installed vents in the body work up near the windshield. No charge :D. You can see the part in the picture below.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]49724[/ATTACH]
It's the black part next to the upper lights.
Talk to your dealer. This is not a recall. I think they called it a "Goodwill" repair.
I hope this helps.
The gas smell was a problem from The Spyder's inception, My 08 was no different , The exhaust pipe runs along side and almost touching the gas tank...Also the charcoal canister will from over filling the tank get saturated and fumes will leak out from it.. There is a purge valve but that sometimes gets over whelmed, It reached a head with the 2013 Spyder's when a few of them burnt up... And had to have a recall to try to stop the fires...Some owners after the fires got a new Spyder, ''After'' they signed a confidentiality agreement....
Got this off another site
The gas cap is only one way you can get fuel smell, the other is through your EVAP canister. I would have your dealer check to see if your canister is full of fuel and check your purge valve
Check for any updates to from your dealer.
Along with hose/clamp area leaks.
[QUOTE=TGCarol;509666]When I had my 2011 RT-L I could actually hear the gas boiling in the tank :xzqxz:. I took it to my dealer and they (since this is a known problem) installed vents in the body work up near the windshield. No charge :D. You can see the part in the picture below.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]49724[/ATTACH]
It's the black part next to the upper lights.
Talk to your dealer. This is not a recall. I think they called it a "Goodwill" repair.
I hope this helps.[/QUOTE]
We were able to get those added to my wife's 12 Spyder as "Goodwill". Seems like we got a few things done as a package deal but we had to pay labor. She's since traded for a 16. Except for the new engine and transmission I think the 12 was a better bike. Probably because we spent a lot getting there and just expected the 16 to be all around better. We've had nothing but trouble with the electrical system. Anyway, as to the gas smell, we were warned about not offer filling the fuel tank. It would supposedly lead to just these kinds of problems with fuel vapor canister getting full and smelling of fuel. I'd suggest seeing a dealer and getting it replaced or get one and do it yourself. Hardest part is getting the Tubberware off.
[FONT=Arial]I don’t ride a trike (often) but my wife loves her 2012 Spyder RTS but we have a problem.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]We have had it for a little over two years and have had no notable problems.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Last week we were on our way to an event and it died at a stop light so we pushed it into a parking lot and began to remove the Tupperware on the right side, concerned with possible pack-rat damage due to sitting for about two weeks. No damage or indication of pack-rat presence but found the battery connection were loose. Very loose. tightened the negative but being unable to reach the positive we could only tighten it finger tight. Using a power pack we jumped the bike and drove it to our event. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]After the event it wouldn't start. Called tow service and took it home. Next day started to work on it. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Replaced the battery[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Checked all fuses[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Swapped all relays[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Checked voltage at all fuses and relays[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Thorough search of bike for any loose/separated wires/connectors[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Verified starter solenoid functional.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Here is the problem:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Turn on ignition (dash and running lights come on)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Wait for start up cycle[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Hit the "Mode" button (Safety screen goes away and shows normal screen)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Chuck gear in "Neutral" [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Verify engine cut out switch[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Hit the start button[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Nothing, No attempt to start. No click, Nothing.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]I am at a loss and would like to know if anyone here has any idea of where I can check next.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]
[/FONT]
[QUOTE=DadNoyce;546850][FONT=Arial]I don’t ride a trike (often) but my wife loves her 2012 Spyder RTS but we have a problem.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]We have had it for a little over two years and have had no notable problems.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Last week we were on our way to an event and it died at a stop light so we pushed it into a parking lot and began to remove the Tupperware on the right side, concerned with possible pack-rat damage due to sitting for about two weeks. No damage or indication of pack-rat presence but found the battery connection were loose. Very loose. tightened the negative but being unable to reach the positive we could only tighten it finger tight. Using a power pack we jumped the bike and drove it to our event. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]After the event it wouldn't start. Called tow service and took it home. Next day started to work on it. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Replaced the battery[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Checked all fuses[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Swapped all relays[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Checked voltage at all fuses and relays[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Thorough search of bike for any loose/separated wires/connectors[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Verified starter solenoid functional.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Here is the problem:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Turn on ignition (dash and running lights come on)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Wait for start up cycle[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Hit the "Mode" button (Safety screen goes away and shows normal screen)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Chuck gear in "Neutral" [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Verify engine cut out switch[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Hit the start button[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial] Nothing, No attempt to start. No click, Nothing.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]I am at a loss and would like to know if anyone here has any idea of where I can check next.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]
[/FONT][/QUOTE]
Shot in the dark here, Have you tried to start it with the extra [Chipped] key the Spyder came with?
Yes I have. I tried both keys several times.
Good idea though.
Thanks for the response.:(
[QUOTE=DadNoyce;546856]Yes I have. I tried both keys several times.
Good idea though.
Thanks for the response.:([/QUOTE]
One more shot....Keep both keys out of range of the Spyder's Security system for a few minutes and see ii that will work when you try the key again :Shrug:
After that i'm at a loss ....I had an 08 Spyder and the security system would go wonky on mine every once and a while...
Again, no go.
I have been going in and out of the house with the keys and it is about 80 feet to where the bike sets.
Thanks for the suggestion, though.
Didn’t see it on your check list, the battery in the key fob, weak or plain dead :Shrug: ?
there is no such thing on a Spyder
you said earlier that you found all the battery terminals loose but could only tighten the one with your fingers.1st are we talking about the terminals on the battery itself,or the posts? The posts are only ways to access the battery,but they have wires that go to the battery and these also get loose. You must remove the covers on the left side (as you sit on the bike) to reach the battery. That will give you access to the battery terminals so you can tighten them up. I would remove the terminals and get a couple of star washers to put under the screws. There are several good videos on youtube on removing the battery to access the screws,finless bob is the best.
If the posts are what you are tightening you will have to remove the battery to access the nut that holds the negative post on. They say you can do it by bending a wrench to fit underneath. I have ruined 2 wrenches trying to do this.It is just easier to remove the battery.
[QUOTE=Pegasus1300;548511]you said earlier that you found all the battery terminals loose but could only tighten the one with your fingers.1st are we talking about the terminals on the battery itself,or the posts? The posts are only ways to access the battery,but they have wires that go to the battery and these also get loose. You must remove the covers on the left side (as you sit on the bike) to reach the battery. That will give you access to the battery terminals so you can tighten them up. I would remove the terminals and get a couple of star washers to put under the screws. There are several good videos on youtube on removing the battery to access the screws,finless bob is the best.
If the posts are what you are tightening you will have to remove the battery to access the nut that holds the negative post on. They say you can do it by bending a wrench to fit underneath. I have ruined 2 wrenches trying to do this.It is just easier to remove the battery.[/QUOTE]
That's one area we really like about my wife's 16 model. The battery is right up front very easy to access.:clapping::clapping::clapping: Nice change from the almost impossible access of her 12 model.
Any codes?
[QUOTE=hogcowboy;548607]That's one area we really like about my wife's 16 model. The battery is right up front very easy to access.:clapping::clapping::clapping: Nice change from the almost impossible access of her 12 model.[/QUOTE]
Sorry I missed the part about her having gone to a 2016.Yes battery is much better located on the 2014 and newer.