Has anyone used a motorcycle clutch/mastercylinder located on the handlebar for a Volkswagen trike?
I have weak knees from setting in trucks for thirty seven years, and desided to incorporate a motorcycle handlebar mounted clutch on my Volkswagen trike. I want some feedback from the experts here before I start down what could be a dead end road with a set of doubles.
Thank you in advance for any help offered.
Curtit. :confused:
It is do-able and has been done before.
But...
It takes a large (for a motorcycle) cylinder bore to make enough displacement to work the car clutch enough stroke.
By the time you get all the parts to match and function you will have a very very stiff clutch lever.
You best be GI Joe with a kung foo grip.
Get the lightest poundage diaphragm pressure plate you can find. It will take the least amount of stroke to operate.
Then put the late model long lever on the clutch fork. This will further reduce how hard it is to pull.
Then the normal hydraulic slave like a cnc brand.
Just because it is made to pull instead of push.
Then find a motorcycle lever with a larger than normal bore. A normal is 10 to 12mm and will not displace enough to fully disengage the clutch.
You might get there at around 15 to 16mm if the lever has an exceptionally long swing. If not you are looking at more the 17 to 19mm (11/16 to 3/4) range to get the stroke needed.
You best have a strong hand.
Now.....
If you can find an auto stick that would be more suited to your need. Some of the parts are hard to find. But it could be worth it.
Wow! Sounds like I'd need to hire King Kong as a driver.
Maby I'll start doing exercises of more than elbo bends at the table in order to do the foot clutch.
Thanks for the answer Snu Snu.
Curtit :xzqxz:
I was wounding if you could work some kind of primary and secondary system. To maybe amplify the force to the clutch?
It is not really a full gorilla pull.....
I have had modified high hp motorcycle with race clutch packs that were really really difficult to pull.
But I was young then and could do it.
Just something to consider here.
The hydraulic clutch foot system is easier to push with your foot.
Getting the length of stroke with your leg is a whole lot easier than with just the reach of your fingers.
If you are not fully disabled in that leg what about just a lighter load?
[QUOTE=FuzzyWuzHe;513294]I was wounding if you could work some kind of primary and secondary system. To maybe amplify the force to the clutch?[/QUOTE]
Yes a vacuums booster (servo) like on a brake master cylinder would work.
Mechanical linkage to the servo and hydraulic out.
Snu Snu, and Fuzzy, I thank you for the input. I'm not disabled, it's just that my mussles have athropied from ten to twelve hours a day in the truck, with no exercize to talk about, for the last thirty seven years.
I think I'll just go with long pedals, 5/8" bore master cylinders, and front wheel cylinders in the rear. I will not be running front brakes.
I have the down tubes, and neck coming in from the machine shop, and am getting caught up on the rest of the trike before the hard work begins. I had a senior moment and thought about the handlebar clutch.
Thank yall very muck.
Curtit:kpzxvq:
When I first built my contraption years ago I also looked a handlebar clutch and foot shift. Just to be more motorcycle like.
Just lighten the load then.
Lots of stroke long levers and hydraulic on the clutch too.
My pedals are stiff on mine and I just live with it.
My feet are forward like a chopper position and I can not rotate my ankles far enough for a longer stroke.
I have a 22mm master cylinder for the clutch, and a CNC slave cylinder. I've ordered a 5/8", two wheel brakes, master cylinder from Appletree, so things are going to get heated up in the next month or so, what with the front end pieces coming in.
Thanks a lot.
Curtit.:D
The smaller either one of those master cylinders can be then the easier it will be to push but the further the pedal must move.
And the same about the slaves.
The larger they can be then the easier to push but the further the pedal must move.
Then the same thing about the lever.
The longer the applied moment can be verses the work moment then the easier it will be to push but the longer it must move.
another benefit of the long stroke /low effort setup, would be a longer clutch engagement window. maybe a smoother clutch engagement?