I am going to look at a 88 blazer tomorrow as a donor.
Getting it for a good price for what it is
Ive seen hot rods and trikes made from them
One of the Trikes I have seen that I like the best is made from a S10 (same engine, trany, rear and frame)
Printable View
I am going to look at a 88 blazer tomorrow as a donor.
Getting it for a good price for what it is
Ive seen hot rods and trikes made from them
One of the Trikes I have seen that I like the best is made from a S10 (same engine, trany, rear and frame)
I am so looking forward to another build thread.
[QUOTE=FuzzyWuzHe;410716]I am so looking forward to another build thread.[/QUOTE]
Cant promise that to fast
I have very limited money and time
It will take longer than I would like it to
[QUOTE=Fowler;410704]I am going to look at a 88 blazer tomorrow as a donor.
Getting it for a good price for what it is
Ive seen hot rods and trikes made from them
One of the Trikes I have seen that I like the best is made from a S10 (same engine, trany, rear and frame)[/QUOTE]
Kewl...Any pics of said S10 trike?
[QUOTE=Bazooka;410731]Kewl...Any pics of said S10 trike?[/QUOTE]
This is what I am going to look at tomorrow afternoon
[ATTACH=CONFIG]41882[/ATTACH]
This'll be great to watch it progress!
Is it 2 or 4 wheel drive?
Transmission could be changed to 2 wheel drive but likely adds cost, labor, & some amount of custom fabrication to the equation.
It sounds like you're prepared for that and I'm not trying to discourage you on this, but here's my "2 cents" for what its worth & if not too late: finding a 2x4 S10 donor rig might be a better start?
[QUOTE=peteg59;410935]Is it 2 or 4 wheel drive?
Transmission could be changed to 2 wheel drive but likely adds cost, labor, & some amount of custom fabrication to the equation.
It sounds like you're prepared for that and I'm not trying to discourage you on this, but here's my "2 cents" for what its worth & if not too late: finding a 2x4 S10 donor rig might be a better start?[/QUOTE]
I just got home with it.
Yep it is 4wd. I have researched how to convert the Trany to 2wd and looked up the parts.
That along with a rebuild kit will run me about $400 (will go with a beast sun gear)
Or I just buy a replacement trany
I was looking for a 2wd s10 but could not find one in my price range.
It was crazy driving it home. The steering is so loose. I passed a cop and was afraid he would think I was drunk.
My goal was to get a donor vehicle by the end of the year. I finally got one the last day.
Now my next goal is to have it striped down by summer
The 2wd rear diff is narrower than the 4wd diff.
A 4.3 would make a stong trike.
[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;411067]The 2wd rear diff is narrower than the 4wd diff.
A 4.3 would make a strong trike.[/QUOTE]
Did not know that!!!!
I was planning to narrow the rear end anyway. I have been researching it.
I dont think I will do that myself but I wount know until I get to that point
I was just out looking at it with my son. All kinds of ideas running through our heads
BUT it will take us some time.
Got a little tore apart today
both side doors
back door/hatch
front grill
front bumper
left side fender
Not a lot to share but its a start
[ATTACH=CONFIG]41925[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41926[/ATTACH]
well Fowler.......good to see a project under way! remembering killing mice during disassembly of the datona!! lucky they hadn't damaged the wiring much...car had sat not running for 11yrs. it appears that you are starting with a live one! but whats with the dead on the welding table?? larry
[QUOTE=LarryA;411535]well Fowler.......good to see a project under way! remembering killing mice during disassembly of the datona!! lucky they hadn't damaged the wiring much...car had sat not running for 11yrs. it appears that you are starting with a live one! but whats with the dead on the welding table?? larry[/QUOTE]
So far it is coming apart real well. The power steering has leaked all over, and I did catch it on fire when I burnt the door hinges off but I was ready for that.
Don't need the power steering so I don't care about it not working.
This coming weekend (if I have time) I will take the other fender off and then start taking what is not needed from the engine compartment
The dead thing is a dog I am building. It does kind of look like a dead creacher when laying on its back like that
See [URL]http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/35272-started-new-dog[/URL]
I thought it was kind of fun getting to "look in" to your shop and see the beginnings of a dog on the table, and a punching bag hanging in the foreground. I reckon that's for when a project gets frustrating?
[QUOTE=consitter;411621]I thought it was kind of fun getting to "look in" to your shop and see the beginnings of a dog on the table, and a punching bag hanging in the foreground. I reckon that's for when a project gets frustrating?[/QUOTE]
My shop (2 car garage) is cluttered with stuff. I try to keep it clean but there's only so much room.
I love my bunching bags. Almost every time I go into the shop I hit on it for a few minutes [URL]http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/33920-Moai?highlight=moai[/URL]
My son and I work out on it for at least a hour every Monday Wednesday and Friday. On Fridays when I am not on call I do Beer and Boxing with it
I narrowed the rear end on my trike. Set the banjo so it was more to left side to get pinion angle . That way i did not have to worry about move trans up or down,,. I cut my axle tubes with a pipe cutter. worked out super for me.. Home made drive shaft and all .. Just take your time and i bet it will be a super nice ride:)
fowler...good luck on the dog and trike! diver..do you mean that the trans and diff are mountedridgedly together??
[QUOTE=Fowler;411633]My shop (2 car garage) is cluttered with stuff. I try to keep it clean but there's only so much room.
I love my bunching bags. Almost every time I go into the shop I hit on it for a few minutes [URL]http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/33920-Moai?highlight=moai[/URL]
My son and I work out on it for at least a hour every Monday Wednesday and Friday. On Fridays when I am not on call I do Beer and Boxing with it[/QUOTE]
I need to get me a punching bad to calm me down a little bit, and to get a good workout. Sounds like it would be a lot of fun--especially the Beer and Boxing. Of course the bag would end up hitting me back if I had too many beers. :laugh:
[QUOTE=LarryA;411879]fowler...good luck on the dog and trike! diver..do you mean that the trans and diff are mountedridgedly together??[/QUOTE]
No they are separate but very short drive shaft (If i remember right 10 inchs). No just shorten one side of differential more than other side so it was off set with trans tail shaft. having less pinion up and down and more sideways . If that makes any sense lol..
[QUOTE=consitter;412009]I need to get me a punching bad to calm me down a little bit, and to get a good workout. Sounds like it would be a lot of fun--especially the Beer and Boxing. Of course the bag would end up hitting me back if I had too many beers. :laugh:[/QUOTE]
A punching bag is very good for relieving stress and exercise.
Moai (that is what I call it) does hit back kind of.
Over the years I have gotten fairly good with the double ended bag but it still comes back and hits me every now and then. I want to move to a smaller bag but my son likes the one we have and if keeping it keeps him interested that is fine with me.
Also I have a headache bag that swings around Moai. We mainly use it on Beer and Boxing nights.
Its a bag that is hung from a pool that we can swing around Moai at each other while we try to box. We have to slip, bob and weave to get out of its way. If you do not you get hit in the head. Its padded so it realy does not hurt but its does make you look next time
I would like a hanging heavy bag though. I just do not have room for it
[QUOTE=diver;412165]No they are separate but very short drive shaft (If i remember right 10 inchs). No just shorten one side of differential more than other side so it was off set with trans tail shaft. having less pinion up and down and more sideways . If that makes any sense lol..[/QUOTE]
I have been reading everything I can find on this.
I hope by the time I get to that point I know a lot more than I do now
So I have been reading some on pinion angle.
I understand under load the rear end will change angle slightly
But if the Trany and the Diff are at the same height wont the 2 u joints make up for any angle change ?
And how does the length of the drive shaft affect this
or am I what off here?
I don't think its the height. If you put a level on the trans and its perfectly vertical then the rear pinion shaft has to be the same or very close I think they allow maybe 3degrees difference.you should be able to google it.
I always ran 2 degs on pinon angle on my drag cars as with the more neg the pinon the better bite the tires have for launching . Set my trike up with 2 deg offset to left and 0 on trans tail shaft to pinion . I really suck at explaining. You have to make sure you do not bind the joints through suspension travel . I always set angle with suspension loaded and vehicle setting on drums but i have a hobby lift.lol .. Maybe someone with a better gift of explaining can come in and help you. I welded my axle tubes to swing arms so my adjustment is by shimming my trans up or down.. My trike has the 4.3 with the turbo350 and lock converter .. No drive line vibrations at all ... watch some Utube videos on pinon angle .. Im sure you will catch on and if not there are so many very knowledgeable members here that will help you .:D
Thanks guys
I am finding all kinds of info on this.
Here is 1 [URL]http://www.hotrod.com/articles/91758/[/URL]
I have a lot of time until I get to that point so I think I will have it down be the time I get there
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Verdana]Pinion angle is important due to the forces at work in the rearend and rear suspension of a rearwheel drive vehicle. As power is applied to the rearend via the driveshaft, the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear. This causes the rearend housing (along with the pinion gear) to rotate about the axles' centerline. The optimum relationship between the pinion gear and driveshaft is when they are perfectly aligned. In order to achieve this under power, you much have some angle built into the setup when the vehicle is at rest and not under any power.
[URL]http://www.quickperformance.com/Pinion-Angle-Measurement_ep_45.html[/URL]
[/FONT][/COLOR]
all day I have been reading articles and watching videos on Pinion angle
I think I have a good understanding what it is, why it is needed and how to set it up.
When I go to do it I may have more questions but that will be some time from now
This is exactly why I like building things. I learn so much
i'm thinking that you would want to consider the type of rear end mounting you will use... may be s-10 stock....4 link... coil...leaf parallel 4 link or radius rods.....then use suitable pinion angle for the type of suspension. it seems that you should have at least 1/2 degree on each joint at the cruise power angle to keep joint needles rotating.......hope this makes sense??
[QUOTE=LarryA;412738]i'm thinking that you would want to consider the type of rear end mounting you will use... may be s-10 stock....4 link... coil...leaf parallel 4 link or radius rods.....then use suitable pinion angle for the type of suspension. it seems that you should have at least 1/2 degree on each joint at the cruise power angle to keep joint needles rotating.......hope this makes sense??[/QUOTE]
Some of the articles I have been reading have talked about that.
Once i get the vehicle to that point I will decide
Ok stupid question but here goes anyway.
This weekend I will be tearing apart the engine compartment of my blazer.
The engine runs real good now
Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so? I will be taking off the power steering, Air conditioning and such so I will need to redesign the alternator bracket, serpentine belt. I was not going to do this part until I have the vehicle completely tore down and I am bringing it back up as a trike
I'm just kind of hesitate to take it to the point where the engine is not running. I know I have to do it at some point though
"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"
Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:
[IMG]http://www.amsoil.com/shopres/products/270px/FOG.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=peteg59;413727]"Before I tear the extra crap out of the engine compartment and off the engine can you think of anything I need to do with the engine before I make it for it does not run for the next year or so?"
Well since you asked, here's my $.02: You can remove all of the accessories ie: P/S pump, AC comp., fan, alt., and it should still start & yard drive, obviously on short runs only.
If/when you're ready to "cripple" it, fogging the engine is a good idea. I pull each plug & spray a few good seconds in each hole for desired effect. Afterward turning over the engine without plugs in it for a few seconds to get a good coating everywhere.
There are a few types available, but the AMSOIL type has worked really well for me the last 5 years or so:
[IMG]http://www.amsoil.com/shopres/products/270px/FOG.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I admit I had to look up what you were suggesting
Great Idea!
Thanks
A highly-effective rust preventative designed to protect internal engine components during storage or long periods of inactivity. Ideal for outboard motors, lawn and garden equipment, motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATVs, motor homes and generators or any equipment with a two- or four-stroke engine.
As a follow on to my earlier post, any light oil/ATF should work to coat the cylinder walls if you're putting it down for under a year.
Longer, & a true fogging oil is definitely the way to go.ThumbUp
Then again on the other hand you hear of folks starting up a motor that has sat 10 years or more, just adding gas, fresh batt. & it fires right up:Shrug:
I changed the oil and filter the ran it for a bit
I picked up the fogger and some fuel stabilizer
Per the directions on the can I sprayed some down the TB and the in each spark plug hole.
I have read that some people "pickle" the engine. Basically fill the engine completely full with oil. I have not done this yet
What do you think about that?
Tore more of it apart today
[SP]Before
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42053[/ATTACH]
after
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42054[/ATTACH]
[/SP]
Not sure I'd fill the eng completely full w/oil, unless you're storing it in a place that experiences constant high humidity, or somewhere that condensation is a major issue.
Normal oil fill in the block, & fogging all cylinders should be all you really need to do.
If you plan on using the stock fuel tank, filling w/fuel & stabilizer is suggested...
any idea what these are?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42131[/ATTACH]
[QUOTE=Fowler;414807]any idea what these are?
[/QUOTE]
one of them looks to be a [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Tahoma][B]ESC = Electronic Spark Control.
[URL]http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/tbi-efi-conversion.html[/URL]
[/B][/FONT][/COLOR]
the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry
[QUOTE=LarryA;415363]the one on the pass side ...maybe map sensor..should have vacuum hose and a few wires if it is a map. are you keeping it throttle body, or are you going with carb and dist??? on last winter I broke and ordered the factory manuals glad i did! if you keep fi you should invest in set. I agree with the fogging advice. larry[/QUOTE]
I would like to keep the TBI but that is a long way off.
Good suggestions on the manuals. I will do that.
Almost have it ready to take the body off. Its been cold so I have been working slow. I'm still ahead of schedule though
I think before I narrow the rear end and frame I will wait until it gets a little warmer out. Its just to hard/tight to work with the doors closed and to cold to work with them open.
I may have a line on a 2wd Trany to replace the 4wd one I have now. I am hoping to trade the old one and a rifle for it. Got to wait to until I get the body off for I can see what exactly I have. I could just crawl under it but the concrete is cold
I think its a 700r4/4l60
When I put the engine back together I will only need Crank, Water pump and Altenator
I can make brackets to mount the alternator on either side
But I do not come up with a good belt path.
This is not my engine but its setup the same
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42267[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42266[/ATTACH]