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Got my empi disc brake kit on my trike today. Does ok but I don't have the pedal I think I should have. I mounted the calipers on top of the axle. I can't tell if there is any air left in the lines. I am going to bleed a little more tomorrow. I didn't start at the master cylinder. I bled the brakes at the calipers. Any suggestions.
Pump the pedal up using short strokes, Strap the pedal down, let it sit a few hours
Crack the bleeders open slowly, the air should be all gone
Keep the master topped off during bleeding
I will try that. Seems I have also read you can gravity bleed brakes. My master cylinder is higher than my calipers. Wonder if I could just crack the bleeder screws and let it bleed itself. I could also jack up the front of my trike to where the master cylinder is a good bit higher than the calipers.[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;569103]Pump the pedal up using short strokes, Strap the pedal down, let it sit a few hours
Crack the bleeders open slowly, the air should be all gone
Keep the master topped off during bleeding[/QUOTE]
The only luck I have had with gravity method is to get the lines filled and everything wet. That way it is all ready to bleed.
Sounds like you are past that point.
Some air will find it's way to the highest point once you let it sit for a while.
You might could pick up an end to make a bleed nippil closer to the top of caliper.
I don't think the master being higher than the calipers has anything to do with it. The master cylinder is higher on almost all applications. Do the calipers have parking brakes in them. It can make a difference if you got them out of adjustment.
No emergency brake. I try a little more the conventional way. I think I can get it better.
All I can add, is to really take a good look at where the bleeder screw is.....mine looked to be on top.....no luck bleeding at all....noticed the internal tip of the screw was off the the side making a chamber that trapped air when the calipers were bolted to the spindles.
So I took the calipers off and rotated them to bleeder up position, while keeping the disc in place..... 1 stroke on each caliper, brakes bled.
[QUOTE=LarryA;569409]All I can add, is to really take a good look at where the bleeder screw is.....mine looked to be on top.....no luck bleeding at all....noticed the internal tip of the screw was off the the side making a chamber that trapped air when the calipers were bolted to the spindles.
So I took the calipers off and rotated them to bleeder up position, while keeping the disc in place..... 1 stroke on each caliper, brakes bled.[/QUOTE]
Very good point
I had a tech working for me that hung some calipers
Only problem was they were wrong side to side
Yup the bleeders were on the bottom
I laughed, and said how ya going to get the air out
Now say you had a broken or stripped bleeder
Take the caliper off, put a C clamp on the piston ( pistons)
Turn the caliper upside down
The hose with a banjo bolt or ( if the hose screws into the caliper) is the highest point to trap air
You can bleed the air out thru the banjo bolt or the hose
good to know! there is more than one way to skin a cat! lol maybe this saying isn't appropriate anymore.:D
Hi I ride to and do the odd repairs for others and I find trike brakes trickey, just a few point about calipers how many pistons do you have mine has 4 so I fitted an extra bleeder to make sure that both side of the caliper are bled, secondly I never do a manual bleed, I always use a pressure bleeder as it forces the air out of the place a manual bleed can't.
[QUOTE=LarryA;569642]good to know! there is more than one way to skin a cat! lol maybe this saying isn't appropriate anymore.:D[/QUOTE]
Larry, There is no way you can talk about Cats that enables one to come off as a sane person..And did you know that cats make good chimney sweeps...:D
I use a vacuum type bleeder. There are many to choose from but since I don't do it very often I just got a rather cheap one like this. It gets the job done but even it can have trouble getting some air bubbles that can get trapped. In those cases I reverse everything a push new fluid up from the bleeder valve. When going that direction you have to be very careful with the fluid in the reservoir. You may also have to tap the lines at junctions where bubbles can get trapped. Take your time. Another set of eyes can be helpful watching that reservoir too. Just get a baster and suck it empty before you start pushing fluid if that's what you choose to do but watch that reservoir closely. It fills rather quickly. And put a bunch of rags around it to keep any escaping fluid from touching any painted surfaces.
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I put a wrap of Teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder screws to seal out air. Then I use a large syringe with a clear plastic hose attached to push or pull fluid from either end of the lines. The syringe also catches fluid, allowing me to return it to the m/c and save a lot that would otherwise be making a mess on the floor. I can bleed a system losing only a teaspoon or so of fluid. Finally, whenever possible I unmount the calipers and hang them above the level of the m/c with bleeders topmost. I block the pads with an old pad, wait a few minutes for the bubbles to rise, and suck the air out with the syringe.