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Hope more experienced riders could help me out. Not having any problems but what should I look for that would indicate my battery is going bad? When I turn key to "on" the trike shows between 12.0 to 12.2v, when I push start button it goes down to 9.5 to 10.8v. When trike is idling in neutral it stays between 14.1 to 14.3v. When riding it fluctuates between 14.3 and 14.5v but mostly stays constant at 14.4v.
What should I look for that would indicate a problem?
Thank you.
[QUOTE=Tony8;820005]Hope more experienced riders could help me out. Not having any problems but what should I look for that would indicate my battery is going bad? When I turn key to "on" the trike shows between 12.0 to 12.2v, when I push start button it goes down to 9.5 to 10.8v. When trike is idling in neutral it stays between 14.1 to 14.3v. When riding it fluctuates between 14.3 and 14.5v but mostly stays constant at 14.4v.
What should I look for that would indicate a problem?
Thank you.[/QUOTE]
Tony, Get a battery voltage tester ...They aren't expensive and test the battery voltage with out having the key on [Static] and sitting a while' It should read no lower than 12.80..On board voltage meters are not very reliable...
[QUOTE=Tony8;820005]Hope more experienced riders could help me out. Not having any problems but what should I look for that would indicate my battery is going bad? When I turn key to "on" the trike shows between 12.0 to 12.2v, when I push start button it goes down to 9.5 to 10.8v. When trike is idling in neutral it stays between 14.1 to 14.3v. When riding it fluctuates between 14.3 and 14.5v but mostly stays constant at 14.4v.
What should I look for that would indicate a problem?
Thank you.[/QUOTE]
Tony all your figures look normal. Trouble would be if they did not read what you show. Before start below 12 v would indicate a under charged condition or a bad cell. Running if it reads below 13 or above high 14s to 15s would indicate a bad part in the charging system. If the low voltage at idle goes up to normal when you add RPM your charging system is getting a little weak or you have a high load on the system. The numbers you currently show are good.
Tony, as Bob stated buy a good voltage/ ohm meter. They are fairly cheap now days. You tool box is NOT complete with out one. You can do what I call a cheap load test with a voltmeter. Hook it up on the battery, turn on headlight for 5-10 seconds and observe the volts. If the readings drop below 10 volts and continue to drop replace the battery. Most generally you will need at least 10.5 volts to spin the starter and fire the ignition.
Your current readings appear to be OK, best of luck to you;)
Once side cover is removed are the battery terminals accessible to use a volt meter? Or does the battery need to be removed?
Sorry for all the questions that the answers are obvious to others, but I'm new at doing my own trouble shooting and maintenance.
[QUOTE=Tony8;820085]Once side cover is removed are the battery terminals accessible to use a volt meter? Or does the battery need to be removed?
Sorry for all the questions that the answers are obvious to others, but I'm new at doing my own trouble shooting and maintenance.[/QUOTE]
If you can see the terminals you do not have to remove the battery....
The battery terminals are accessible without removing the battery, Once you remove the side panel, there is a little shield over the positive terminal that is easily removed. One push pin I believe. As stated by others, your numbers look normal. My experience with dying batteries is they will not turn the engine over briskly during the starting process. If you notice hesitation or a slow starter, it is time to address the battery. Good luck..... Jim
I agree with the above regarding a volt meter.....not expensive and very helpful. Having lived on battery power for 14 years (on a cruising boat) I will say that a fully charged battery should have a static voltage of 12.6 to 12.7. Check the battery voltage first thing in the morning with everything off.... if less than 12.5 I would consider that the battery is dying....
Just my $.02, If you have an advance auto parts near you they can test your battery and charging system. Down here in sunny Fla. they do not charge for this service.
Capn
[QUOTE=capnfred;826966]
Just my $.02, If you have an advance auto parts near you they can test your battery and charging system. Down here in sunny Fla. they do not charge for this service.
Capn[/QUOTE]
DITTO!
I have had mixed luck with cheap meters from HF lately, they seem to read high on voltage. I have a Fluke for reference, I just like to have the cheap ones for toolkits.
Or for $20 this will tell you also.
[url]https://www.harborfreight.com/100a-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html[/url]
With a 100A draw, do not hold it down for more than 3 seconds or so on a small bike battery. I hold it down for 10-15 seconds for 100Ah group 31's in my cart. The tool does start to get warm!
On my bike the existing 650cca battery was cranking the engine slower than I like, and it showed 'yellow' on this. :xzqxz: I got a lithium replacement, and it is well in the green and spins my motor over instantly. :clapping: