Good, better, best? Not the EMPI kit, so many bad reviews.
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Good, better, best? Not the EMPI kit, so many bad reviews.
Ok then....
You can spend as much as you want on disc brakes. Some really great dune buggy units out there, wildwood, Jamar ect.
As light as we are just upgraded drums are fine.
I do like my disc though. I have ac industries kit on mine. Which is just one of the generic plain jane disc kits.
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I think all the generic brake kits are the same, probably made by the same Chinese folks. Empi is most likely the same as as other generic kit.
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[url]http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/industries-disc-brake-kit-rear-non-brake-lug-porsche-pattern-5x130-for-studs-threaded-p-13549[/url]
[URL="http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/industries-disc-brake-kit-rear-non-brake-lug-porsche-pattern-5x130-for-studs-threaded-p-13549"]http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/industries-disc-brake-kit-rear-non-brake-lug-porsche-pattern-5x130-for-studs-threaded-p-13549[/URL]
Caveman, Looks good since I saw it last!
There are several online sources for the rear disc kit.
They are typically supplied with or without park brake.
Here are a few in no particular order or preference:
appletreeauto.com
cip1.com
carcraftstore.com
jbugs.com
Good luck & keep the shiny side up!ThumbUp
Seems like mostly Empi kits for 5x4.75 Chevy pattern. Is there a logical step up in quality?
[URL="http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/off-road/off-road-brakes/jamar-rear-brake-kits/jamar-934-micro-stub-disc-brake-kit-4-piston-caliper.html"]http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/off-road/off-road-brakes/jamar-rear-brake-kits/jamar-934-micro-stub-disc-brake-kit-4-piston-caliper.html[/URL]
very nice... But no 5x4.75 :xzqxz: Thx Death!
This is actually the kit that I installed on my trike:
[URL]http://carcraftstore.com/reardiscbrakekitwithoute-brake.aspx[/URL]
However, after installing the kit I also installed this Wilwood residual valve:
[URL]http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-1874-Residual-Pressure-Valve/dp/B002G31ORM?ie=UTF8&keywords=wilwood%20residual%20pressure%20valve&qid=1465321628&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1[/URL]
The system works fantastic!!!
When ordering though, insure you are getting the correct kit for your IRS transaxle.
Thanks Stinger! ThumbUp
That looks like a great kit and it looks complete. Where did you insert the Willwood presure valve?
[QUOTE=CaveManDave;366659]Thanks Stinger! ThumbUp
That looks like a great kit and it looks complete. Where did you insert the Willwood presure valve?[/QUOTE]
I installed the residual valve along the single line between the master cylinder and where it "T"s off to the both rear wheels. However, if you do find you need a residual valve and do the disc conversion, DO NOT get a 10 pound valve. Just get a 2 pound. The 10 pound will be way to much pressure against the rear brakes and they will drag.
What a residual valve does is keep a certain amount of pressure between the valve and the rear brakes and 10 pounds is way too much for disc brakes.
TY again for your advice! I am going to order this weekend[I].
[/I]
Same varga style 2 pin calipers and same rotors as all the rest of the generic kits.
The only difference that I know of in any of the generic kits is the caliper mounts. I was warned about the stamped bracket, so I got the forged bracket.
As long as the stamped bracket is dimensionally correct (alignment) it should be fine on our light weight app.
Check the thickness of the brackets to the removed back plate. Shim or machine as necessary.
Check the caliper alignment for twist. Not sure how to correct this with stamped.
Check the caliper alignment for centered. Shim or machine the spacer rings on the axle.
There are numerous different depth of axle end castings and bearing caps. The generic kit is only made in one of the possibilities out there. Make sure it assembles right. Sometimes it is a straight bolt on, sometimes not.
can someone explain the benefits of having disk brakes on a trike?
I was going to switch over but just could not justify it.
I still have drum brakes but I am using a larger wheel cyl.
I would think the benefits would be more noticeable on something heaver like a car.
I have drums and when I hit my brakes hard they lock up my wheels fine. How would disk brakes improve that?
Hey guys not trying to put anyone down or discourage anyone from doing this I just want to understand why.
I have weighed the cost also. I think for now I am going to wait off. I have enough upgrade projects to finish. Maybe I will see how I feel after a season of riding.
Exactly what I said to start with.
A good drums brake is enough at our weight.
Correctly size the hydraulics for a rear single circuit only.
The only real advantage is fade.
Drums can only soak up so much energy before overheating.
Disc can scrub off more energy.
Say.... 100mph panic stop.
Drums are gonna be fading and taking more and more peddle pressure.
Disc won't.
Another possibility that Dave has is the oversize tires will take more to stop, leaving you less for stopping the rest of the mass.
if you want a cheaper upgrade to your rear brakes get some larger wheel cylinders.
I don't remember the exact size but I used front wheel cyls on the back of my trike.
They cost about $10-$15 or so and was easy to do.
Be warned though I had to change the ends of the brake lines. My nuts were not long enough. But even with that I believe the entire cost was still under $50 (that was a few years ago so don't hold me to that price)
[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;366735]Same varga style 2 pin calipers and same rotors as all the rest of the generic kits.
The only difference that I know of in any of the generic kits is the caliper mounts. I was warned about the stamped bracket, so I got the forged bracket.
As long as the stamped bracket is dimensionally correct (alignment) it should be fine on our light weight app.
Check the thickness of the brackets to the removed back plate. Shim or machine as necessary.
Check the caliper alignment for twist. Not sure how to correct this with stamped.
Check the caliper alignment for centered. Shim or machine the spacer rings on the axle.
There are numerous different depth of axle end castings and bearing caps. The generic kit is only made in one of the possibilities out there. Make sure it assembles right. Sometimes it is a straight bolt on, sometimes not.[/QUOTE]
Actually that kit that I linked to includes shims to align the plate and caliper. That was one of the reasons I ended up getting that specific kit.
However, as stated, there is nothing wrong with keeping the drum brakes.
They worked just fine on the bugs for 40 years.
:laugh:
Yes stinger.
Just gotta know to use them shims and measure where and how much.
I put mine on an early short axle swing.
I bet they come real close to a bolt on swap on a later irs.
[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;366745]
I bet they come real close to a bolt on swap on a later irs.[/QUOTE]
It was very close. One side I had to use some of the shims but the other side was a direct bolt on swap. :p