Lehman trike on Goldwing pipes too low

I posted in general forum but wanted to put here as it is a Lehman trike. the issue I'm having is my pipes sit too low to the ground to be able to load the trike on a trailer without dragging them off or jamming them into the ground when backing off the trailer. I cut them to where they are now just past flush of the trike body, the problem is when the trike is on the ramps the bottom edge of the body is right at the ground, almost touching and the pipes sit below the body. I guess I could just air the shocks up just for loading and unloading but wanted to see if this has been an issue for others and if so what was the solution. I am using a car hauler with the dove tail and put 2X6 at the bottom of the ramps for the rear tires

without the 2X6 the bottom flange of the body will drag. I'm running about 15 PSI in the air shocks. someone suggested a lift kit, is this an option

[ATTACH=CONFIG]90387[/ATTACH]this is what it looked like before I cut the pipes down, I also turned them out some so they don't point straight down now. but as you can see if the body is at the ground the pipes are in trouble

Looks low, how much air do you run in the shocks anyway.

I built a receiver hitch that tied in at the rear but had a long spar ([I]removable for servicing rear[/I]) that tied in at the now unused center stand mount too to spread load, then I added a "tail skid" to my drawbar that was maybe 1/2" lower and slightly further back that tips, it would drag occasionally and sudden transitions like the lower one at my Walmart were best approached gently. It also caught curbs before the exhaust tips if backing straight into a space.

The lower or last picture is of one I saw at a rally, I thought it just put all the weight on the trike's rear subframe, so I tied mine in. The Lehman hitch was an adjustable chrome flat bar.

I also used some '98 mufflers once, they were shorter, exiting under the body, loud too. But then the body is the contact point if it drags.

I want to say it's right at 15 PSI it says max of 25 PSI on the little decal at the Schrader valve in the trunk, I had put 20 in it but it rode a bit too rough at lower speeds. so I lowered it until if felt right. my wife isn't 120 soaking wet so I don't want it bouncing her all over the place

[QUOTE=AJ1500;775148]I want to say it's right at 15 PSI it says max of 25 PSI on the little decal at the Schrader valve in the trunk, I had put 20 in it but it rode a bit too rough at lower speeds. so I lowered it until if felt right. my wife isn't 120 soaking wet so I don't want it bouncing her all over the place[/QUOTE]

The pipe-dragging has been the downside for trikes as long as I can remember.

The body design allows for more storage but pipes should clear the end of the body to keep soot from collecting on the body and sound from resonating beneath the body.

You could raise the body by shimming the trunk to frame bracket but the exhaust cannot be lifted any higher because the rear axle is so close to the mufflers.

Make a new tailpipe extension with a 90 degree turn out and recess it to exit in the side.

When I did 2:1 exhausts on the Renegade model for Harley-Davidson I had a megaphone type muffler to deal with.

I used a 90 degree extension and had the muffler exit to the side.

Should be pretty simple job for a muffler shop.

If you like it, have it chromed in the winter.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]90476[/ATTACH]

[QUOTE=Lee H. Mann;775562]The pipe-dragging has been the downside for trikes as long as I can remember.

The body design allows for more storage but pipes should clear the end of the body to keep soot from collecting on the body and sound from resonating beneath the body.

You could raise the body by shimming the trunk to frame bracket but the exhaust cannot be lifted any higher because the rear axle is so close to the mufflers.

Make a new tailpipe extension with a 90 degree turn out and recess it to exit in the side.

When I did 2:1 exhausts on the Renegade model for Harley-Davidson I had a megaphone type muffler to deal with.

I used a 90 degree extension and had the muffler exit to the side.

Should be pretty simple job for a muffler shop.

If you like it, have it chromed in the winter.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]90476[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]

I was pondering that idea as well but now that you say it I like it even more. I had the turnouts off and rode it before I cut them down and the resonation under the body was horrible, I think the mufflers on this thing have had the baffles removed or they are shot inside because this is the loudest Goldwing I have ever heard. my wife likes it so for now I will leave them alone and they doo look like stock mufflers. I was thinking about shimming the body up just a little because I don't like how low it sits on the tires not for mechanical reasons but just the looks of it

I would suggest you raise the front of the trailer so you don't have a high center point and your pipes will clear the ground. You can also extend the ramp using (2) 2x8 boards for your back wheels. Front wheel will be fine on the ramp and no board is needed. You can also add 1 ft. square 2x8's to get more rise on the front jack. Put the rear of the trailer as close to the ground as possible.

I have a 26' toy-hauler camper trailer and this is my method for loading my Goldwing trike and my Valkyrie trike.

Hope this helps.

Greg

[QUOTE=AJ1500;775580]I was pondering that idea as well but now that you say it I like it even more. I had the turnouts off and rode it before I cut them down and the resonation under the body was horrible, I think the mufflers on this thing have had the baffles removed or they are shot inside because this is the loudest Goldwing I have ever heard. my wife likes it so for now I will leave them alone and they doo look like stock mufflers. I was thinking about shimming the body up just a little because I don't like how low it sits on the tires not for mechanical reasons but just the looks of it[/QUOTE]

Since the end of your mufflers are recessed beneath the body, these or something similar would work excellent.

Don't worry, the resonance from the exhaust will get to her, sooner or later.(when she hears it in her sleep)

This is an example: [U][url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-75-1-3-4-OD-90-DEGREE-304-STAINLESS-16-GAUGE-MANDREL-BEND-EXHAUST-TUBING/122539611813?hash=item1c87ee16a5:g:JzMAAOSwx5hbvh4H:sc:USPSPriority!25404!US!-1[/url][/U]

Back the tow vehicle up onto ramps or dig and landscape some strategic dips for the trailer wheels to sit in while loading / unloading.

[QUOTE=CrystalPistol;775900]Back the tow vehicle up onto ramps or dig and landscape some strategic dips for the trailer wheels to sit in while loading / unloading.[/QUOTE]

That could work when you’re at home, but when you get to your destination what do you do? You can’t dig a pit.

This is getting wayy tooo complicated here.:gah:

Get rid of the troublesome trailer and ride it to where you are going !!!:cool:

:clapping::laugh: you guys are too funny, I have used the ramps under the tow vehicle, that is how I got it loaded when I bought it, but that was on my normal flat not the car hauler.

at the present time riding to the destinations are not an option as my wife is still learning and I still work and have only so much vacation time. I would rather use the time being at the destination and riding than trying to get there. I think I'm going with moving the point the exhaust exits to keep it simple.

Thanks for the link on the pipes, gonna see if one of my local parts houses has something to work