Has anyone changed the differential oil on a HT1800; doing the work yourself? If so, please tell me how you did it. My kit is a 2011. I've got 50,000 on my kit now and want to change the oil.
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Has anyone changed the differential oil on a HT1800; doing the work yourself? If so, please tell me how you did it. My kit is a 2011. I've got 50,000 on my kit now and want to change the oil.
[SIZE=3]I'll be following this thread, SolidBob had a method, but not I cannot find the post. That area of the trike is a dog to get to, my nearest trike shop is almost 2 hours, and hard on the wallet. [/SIZE]
[QUOTE=bikerbillone;360690][SIZE=3]I'll be following this thread, SolidBob had a method, but not I cannot find the post. That area of the trike is a dog to get to, my nearest trike shop is almost 2 hours, and hard on the wallet. [/SIZE][/QUOTE]
I'm in the same boat with installer 2 1/2 hr away. But, I will figure out something but was hoping someone/Roadsmith could give me some "tricks" to do this. Also, I don't know whether this rear end has a gasket or not. If it does then I need the correct info on the rear end so I can get one.
I wish Roadsmith would put a magnetic drain plug in the rear end since they are modifying it anyway.
I just got a phone call from a fine fellow that some of you might know, who knows a bit about the Roadsmith trikes. He should be along shortly to answer your questions. His screen name is MR TRIKE and it is a very fitting name. ;)
[QUOTE=mhgoldwing;360475]Has anyone changed the differential oil on a HT1800; doing the work yourself? If so, please tell me how you did it. My kit is a 2011. I've got 50,000 on my kit now and want to change the oil.[/QUOTE]
Hello- There is a brass drain plug in the bottom of the diff. Use a allen wrench to remove and drain, then replace brass plug. Take out threaded fill plug before draining then with a long transmission funnel, add NO MORE than 1(one) quart of 80w90 gear lube. That amount will fill diff. to about 1 inch below inspection/fill hole. Thats where it should be." Keep- on- Ridin"
[QUOTE=MR TRIKE;360768]Hello- There is a brass drain plug in the bottom of the diff. Use a allen wrench to remove and drain, then replace brass plug. Take out threaded fill plug before draining then with a long transmission funnel, add NO MORE than 1(one) quart of 80w90 gear lube. That amount will fill diff. to about 1 inch below inspection/fill hole. Thats where it should be." Keep- on- Ridin"[/QUOTE]
Thank you so much for the info. I looked but didn't see a drain plug so I will get under it again. The owner's manual doesn't cover this so I hope they update it.
BTW, love my RS trike !
[QUOTE=MR TRIKE;360768]Hello- There is a brass drain plug in the bottom of the diff. Use a allen wrench to remove and drain, then replace brass plug. Take out threaded fill plug before draining then with a long transmission funnel, add NO MORE than 1(one) quart of 80w90 gear lube. That amount will fill diff. to about 1 inch below inspection/fill hole. Thats where it should be." Keep- on- Ridin"[/QUOTE]
Yes, Mr. Trike, the man who started RS, and thanks for the post. I recall when we first met, couldn't believe you were behind the desk, I had to ask someone. We had a great conversation about when you first started with the RS brand, salute to you sir.
Info was correct. Drain plug is located on bottom of differential approximately 1 1/4" from rear of diff. Drain plug requires 3/16 Allen wrench. Fill plug at top rear requires 1" hex socket.
Drain plug can be difficult to see because of road grime, etc. I had to wipe bottom of diff housing off to see it. Be careful not to over tighten when reinstalling. Drain plug should be flush with bottom of housing.
Bringing this thread back up with some tips.
I just did the rear gear oil change on my 1800 Roadsmith.
Here are a few tips that might make it easier for those wanting to do this:
1. A swivel socket extension is your friend in order to remove that 1" fill plug.
2. An outboard motor plastic gear oil pump (Walmart?) makes filling the chunk a breeze. Actually, I see no other way to get the new fluid in there without it. FYI: It will not pump in the full quart, so I added an additional amount of fluid to the bottle to compensate for what originally remained in the bottom after the pump quit pumping and that worked out to get a full quart in there.
3. One of those small telescoping magnets (Harbor Freight?) to the center of the fill plug will make it easier to reinstall and start the threads properly. It's a pain otherwise trying to get your fingers in there to hold & turn it with the frame in the way.
4. Just a tiny pin-head sized drop of BLUE (not red) Loctite to the drain hex plug threads gives that little bit of extra assurance it's not gonna vibrate loose.
Hopefully, this helps someone down the road.
LJ
Thank you for this info. I'm going to look at mine today..........See if I can find the plugs up on the shaft and then purchase all needed materials to complete the job.........:clapping:
Ronnie