How to make a low cost indian light bar

I'm likely not alone is saying I'm tired of spending money on my trike. Bits and peices aside I want a break from the big spendies. Other things are on the list.

So, if I can spruce Tweety up for little cash I'm happy and a sense of achievement comes.

Yesterday I received in the mail two 12 volt chromed lights. They are made from thick plastic, 4.5 inches diameter and have the bonnet on top. The downside is the bulbs/lighting capacity, both high and low beam each are only 18 watts, barely enough to light up a pot hole.

The original spot lights operate on high beam are 55 watts. by removing these (they are starting to rust) and replacing them with 18watts I can upgrade the headlights H4's from 60W high beam to 100watts. This was ok'd by the electrician.

The old spot light and the new light below. The new one is on an indian bar I've made up. More on that later.

[img]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/IMG_0019-4.jpg[/img]

So by getting more light from the headlights I can use the new lights just for show. They would be on low and high beam (double filament). Also I plan soon to upgrade the 6 inch headlights to 7 inch harley type with the bonnet feature so they will all match. More light from them too. So lighting up the road wont be an issue and relays will cope with this by less to the show lights and more to the headlights.

I've always wanted an indian bar. Its what (in my view) is lacking in the Panther trikes Aust. Oz trikes have a small one and Rewaco have their wide 4 light set up that looks good. I've felt for some time that the front of Tweety lacks a bit here and there. You put a roof on a trike and that isnt the end of the project. It has to look "balanced". Such balancing is in the eye of the beholder.

The spot lights were removed. There are two wires, earth and one from high beam. Another wire is to come from low beam inside the headlight nearby making 3. The hole now vacant from the spot lights, through the alloy girders forks, is three eights of an inch. I purchased a metre of continuous length thread. Also a S/steel or chrome bar 25mm diameter from a bathroom rail. few nuts, washers that will slip inside the tube and a few that will be a little larger than the tube, two of those black plastic stops that go inside the ends of the tube and two S/steel dome nuts. Total $38 from local hardware shop plus the two lights from Ebay $50 includes freight. total $88.

I cut the tube the right length to fit between the girder forks with the two black end caps. This hides the thread. Drilled a hold on the plastic each end to allow the thread to pass through. a washer and nut each side of the outer forks tightened up so the thead is secure. I drilled two holes in the tubes for the wiring.

[img]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/IMG_0016-4.jpg[/img]

At the ends of the tube I spun a nut on so it goes into the tube then a washer that snuggly fits also inside. This gives the tube extra strength when tightening up a u clamp. I placed a larger washer at the end of the tube and the dome nut and tightened it up both ends solid. Worked well. Strong and the tube doesnt rotate.

I used u-clamps and made up a flat plate for the light mounts. I always get Debbie's opinion and we agreed the bar was far too wide. Effectivelt I ended up with the lights about the same distance apart as the Oz trike set up. I'm yet to shorten the tubes.

I'm now happy with the result.

The end result. The bars have to be shortened.

[img]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/IMG_0014-3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/IMG_0020-2.jpg[/img]

It will make the front more attractive. An updated picture some time soon.

[IMG]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy330/eaglefree/IMG_0029-Copy.jpg[/IMG]

Just wanted to compliment you on your sharp looking trike :D

Thankyou. It's 3 years old now and I'm slowing up on the bling and the mods.