Stupid question time!

Ok guys, I need to pick a brain or two...

First, does anybody have a sure fire trick for getting frozen intake studs out of a head? I just acquired an 1835 long block, and the intake studs on the 1-2 side need to be replaced. I've tried all I know except the liberal application of heat, which I'm reluctant to employ without a little sound advice.

Second, I've been told the 1835 will make too much torque for a standard bug 4-speed and will twist the guts out of it. Any truth to this?

Thanks in advance for your help, and patience with my dumb azz...

PEACE and ride safe!

Heat the studs a little and light a candle drip some of the candle wax on them, Some times the wax will flow down the threads and you can spin the studs out....

Heat it.

Dont burn it up though, be more gentle than you would with iron.

Auto trans oil and acetone makes a potent penetrate.

1835..... 92 bore and stock stroke?

No biggie.

You can break a stock trans with a stock 1600 and a grippy clutch.

Other than dumping the clutch, sticky tires, like in drag racing, you dont have much to worry about under 100 hp.

Especially with a light trike.

The gears themselves will hold quite a lot.

It is everything else that breaks.

First thing to show up is case flex. Ring and pinion dont stay in line. So billet side cover on thrust side.

Then axle spyder gears sometimes. It seams that if the axles are more straight out and no drag slicks they stay put. But lowered or raised and some rough driving, think rough driving a baja off road with big tires, breaks them. 4 spyder diff unit.

At about 100 hp the syncro hubs start spinning. They are only press fit onto the gears. Weld the syncros onto the gears.

[QUOTE=rhino 2;453670]Heat the studs a little and light a candle drip some of the candle wax on them, Some times the wax will flow down the threads and you can spin the studs out....[/QUOTE]

Thanks, rhino! I never would've thought about the candle wax!

[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;453691]1835..... 92 bore and stock stroke? No biggie. You can break a stock trans with a stock 1600 and a grippy clutch. Other than dumping the clutch, sticky tires, like in drag racing, you dont have much to worry about under 100 hp. Especially with a light trike.

The gears themselves will hold quite a lot.

It is everything else that breaks.

First thing to show up is case flex. Ring and pinion dont stay in line. So billet side cover on thrust side.

Then axle spyder gears sometimes. It seams that if the axles are more straight out and no drag slicks they stay put. But lowered or raised and some rough driving, think rough driving a baja off road with big tires, breaks them. 4 spyder diff unit.

At about 100 hp the syncro hubs start spinning. They are only press fit onto the gears. Weld the syncros onto the gears.[/QUOTE]

Yep, 92 bore and stock stroke with an Engle W-100 cam. It'll get a 2bbl carb and a set of 1.25:1 rockers. I'm not sure where that puts it, but it probably won't make 100 hp.

Oh, and my clutch dumpin', sticky tire, drag racin' days have been over for while. I ride like an old man, or so I've been told... :)

Again, thanks guys. I knew I came to the right place! :clapping:

PEACE and ride safe! :Dorag:

You are probably looking at 75 to 80 hp.

W100 is about all you want with a single carb.

Trans will be fine.

Early swing being the weakest.

Late model single side cover being the strongest.

[QUOTE=Doug D.;453707]

Again, thanks guys. I knew I came to the right place! :clapping:

PEACE and ride safe! :Dorag:[/QUOTE]

Doug, you will find that most questions will get constructive responses here on the Trike Talk site. ThumbUpThumbUp

So please feel free to ask away.:D

[ATTACH=CONFIG]44396[/ATTACH]

Well, just my sh!thouse luck...

Got the first one to turn out with some heat and a pair of vise grips. The second one snapped off in a big hurry, flat with the gasket surface. There MIGHT be half a thread sticking out above the surface. So, tomorrow I have a riding buddy coming by with a portable welder. He runs a shop in Vienna and says he has a trick for getting broken studs out of aluminum heads. If it works, I'll post pics of the process. For tonight, I'm just disgusted and calling it quits for the evening.

PEACE and ride safe!

P.S. Sorry for the enormous attachment. Not sure where that went wrong...

removed a lot of broken studs on blanking and forming dies......now this was in steel.....i think the same principal applies.... we used 3/32 stainless welding rods cut to about 3in long. had a piece of scrap close to the broken stud used to strike the arc and warm up the rod. i have used dc reverse or ac 60/75 amps strike the arc on the scrap then swing over to the stud, keep a short arc for 3 seconds or so making a ball on the stud, when it cools from red....tap on the stud,,,,the ball will spread out..about the dia. of the stud....repeat weld and tapping about 3 or 4 times or until enough material there to get a vise grip on the ball. then turn out the stud,,,,the heating and pounding loosens the threads enough to remove the stud, the welding just gives you something to grip on. we found stainless steel arc rods work the best. if the threads were not jammed we welded a bolt to the ball by holding the bolt at a 45 deg angle to the ball. then tip the bolt slowly vertical while welding. then screwed it out with an impact wrench. anyhow my. 02 looking forward to seeing your friends method! good luck!

Weld a nut to it.

Weld down in the hole in center of nut.

[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;454125]Weld a nut to it.

Weld down in the hole in center of nut.[/QUOTE]

That's what worked! Started by welding a flat washer to the stud, then a nut to the washer. Took two attempts, but out it came, slick as a whistle. With that out of the way, it's time to mock up the ancillary stuff and get this beast on the road!

Thanks again, guys!

PEACE and ride safe!

[QUOTE=DeathBySnuSnu;454125]Weld a nut to it.

Weld down in the hole in center of nut.[/QUOTE]

I was just going to suggest this trick. Of course, Rex beat me to it. :laugh:

Awesome that it worked for ya Doug!!!

And on the power questions; I built an 1835 about 2 years ago now. It is running an Engle W110, straight cut timing gears, counterweighted crank, big valve heads, 1.25 rockers, dual 40mm EMPI (Weber copies) carbs, and a 4 into 1 header.

I'm running a stock transaxle with solid mounts and have never had a single issue.

If you "ride like an old man" you should be just fine bro. :p

FYIY:

Had basically the same setup as Stinger (progressive 2 barrel rather than dual carbs) in a baja bug back in the day. I "drove it like I stole it" for 5 years. Bent the front end twice from jumping it and pulled some head studs out of the case. Never had a problem with the stock trans. Maybe I was lucky but I don't think you'll have any problems with your setup.

Enjoy the ride!

Thanks, guys! As always, the help and support I get here is outstanding. Occasionally, I chime in with info trying to help somebody out, but what I contribute isn't anywhere close to what I get back. You can't put a price on the cumulative knowledge and experience found on this forum.

PEACE and ride safe!