F1 light flash- running light dim- no turn sig- radio dead- no turn over- rec light f

I do not consider myself an ace mechanic but i figure i am about as Ok as most folks and my ELECTRONIC (NOT ELECTRICAL) experience is better than the average bear. but this has gotten me at wits end as none of it makes sense & the honda wireing schematics are a mess.

Going from Bad (minor issue) to WORSE (real bag of worms).

Doing some deep main and cleaning of my 2005 Gl1800 with the main cleaning in removing radiators & fans, blowing out the antifreeze and installing an in line honest to goodness temp sending and a temp gauge for a more accurate reading of the water temp

Before I started the bike ran fine and there was NO known issues.

Taking everything apart was no major problem other than just time needed. Installing the sensor and all that was straight forward. NO antifreeze / coolant is on the bike at this point! JUST prior to putting on the center cowling (radio cover) I decided to make sure that all of the lights etc worked.

Ignition to ON ---- (*()*(^&$ Turn signals- brake lights do not work BUT the headlights and running lights do)..Double- triple checked any connection I had disconnected ( I taped the connectors when I disconnected them) all was good. Went to fuse panel.. #21 a 15amp fuse for the audio/ accessories was blown... @ replaced fuse.

ALL headlights- flashers- brake lights etc etc work!!!

Connected up the plugs and wiring for the radio and the hazard- fog light box and bolted down the console. One last double check of lights – turn signals and radio before calling it a day.

Ignition on! Radio came on for 10 seconds and then went off, headlights extremely DIM- NO brake lights-NO turn signal lights- NO flashers . F1 light comes on & then goes off when ignition is turned on, rev light may or may not flash even though its NOT in rev, “BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED” N light does not come on nor does engine even turn over with clutch in & start button is hit. WTF. [B] ALL fuses have been double checked- Fuses even associated have been changed just in case.[/B]

Even w center console removed, turn sig disconnected and all connectors for tight and no piched wires not crimped wires... Its the same! Din lights F1 flask ONE time ( long I guess as it has never come on EVER before today) no brake lights...... SOMEthing is BEFORE the center console.

I have been amiss by not posting an update as to the _(*(_&*$%$^*^*)^$$ situation with the bike.

Considering that I worked Electronics for 45 years and generally have always done my own wrenching from the days of motorcross & trials many years ago up to today. once in awhile I get stumped but this things was like WTF.

The ignition had never been left on nor was there a drain on the battery. BUT for some ? reason that between the time I started to do the deep maint (day 1) and day 3 when I was at the point of making sure all elec its were plugged in and working a CELL ON THE BATTERY went south. Bear in mind at this point in putting together I did NOT have coolant in the bike so I didn't even attempt to fire it up. Voltage measured across the battery was good but the weak cell was not holding a good charge in that cell/ With btry tender hooked up all looked good BUT the cell drained off from Ok to NOT ok within 20 min of disconnecting btry tender.............

New battery installed- coolant added and bike fired up. TEMP went thru the roof- boil over within minutes. let cool down and tried again. still perking and boiling over.. * step back and think this thing out* Thermostat was the likely problem. made sure I had as much coolant as it would hold in the bike- Waited overnight and fired it up... still overheating just setting there at idle..

Coolant was not circulating.. Had to be the thermostat Ordered theromostat.. 3 days later it was here... ONE LAST try to see if overheating. I CANT BELIEFE THIS (()()*(###$$^%& NO overheating..

Seems that as the coolant and the whole system was void of fluid for those several days that the thermostat got stuck and was not letting the fluid circulate.The new ACTUAL temp guage that I installed works great. Now I can physically see what the temp is in degrees and not be dependant on the less than accurate Honda gauge..

I was and am surprised to find that the Honda gauge is so inaccurate that once it reaches normal operating temp ( by the gauge) that there is a 30-50 degree physical change from MAX when the fans kick in and the low and yet the HONDA gauge never so much as moves. That gauge is so in accurate that I am surprised that someone has not seriously overheated/ perked while the gauge was still showing around center.

Anyway the temp sender & gauges work, manual fan control does its job and the system has been totally flushed drained and a new battery installed. Added some headlight lens covers to give added protection due to 18 wheelers leaving blow tire bits on the highway down here.

[SIZE=3]Thanks for sharing that, it may help one of us in the future. [/SIZE]

The battery would have been my first thought but it sounded like you had that covered.
Glad things worked out for you.
Good luck and happy triking.