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I had a Champion kit on my 06 midnight star 1700. I went with a DNA Harley kit(since it was most like old kit) and shop did modifications and it works well EXCEPT the rear brakes lock up. Master cylinders were replaced and rebuilt. Wheel cylinders were new but rebuilt and the brake lines were even replaced. Does anyone here have any suggestion? I am totally lost.
[QUOTE=Kook;778154]I had a Champion kit on my 06 midnight star 1700. I went with a DNA Harley kit(since it was most like old kit) and shop did modifications and it works well EXCEPT the rear brakes lock up. Master cylinders were replaced and rebuilt. Wheel cylinders were new but rebuilt and the brake lines were even replaced. Does anyone here have any suggestion? I am totally lost.[/QUOTE]
welcome gene maybe the brake pedal has to much leverage.
Gene......Welcome to Trike -Talk......:clapping:.....
One of our Tech Contributor's ;[B][COLOR=#008000]Jack Klarich[/COLOR][/B] when he sees your post i'm sure he'll have the answer to your problem...
Well if they lockup when you apply them thats a leverage problem. If they lockup going down the road and won't release there's not enough play in the linkage to open the bypass port.
When the brakes lock up do they release if you open the bleeders? If they do the problem is with the master cylinder. Check for proper free travel first.
[QUOTE=Jack Klarich;778269]When the brakes lock up do they release if you open the bleeders? If they do the problem is with the master cylinder. Check for proper free travel first.[/QUOTE]
Well the release on their own in a few minutes. It works well at first but as it goes it happens. It has mystified the shop and they just gave up and wrote it off. With the new body kit could it be getting hot and maybe expanding the brake fluid!
[QUOTE=Kook;778278]Well the release on their own in a few minutes. It works well at first but as it goes it happens. It has mystified the shop and they just gave up and wrote it off. With the new body kit could it be getting hot and maybe expanding the brake fluid![/QUOTE]
While the hotter fluid can be a problem, more often than not it comes down to a free travel problem. Your techs can verify that in 2 ways, loosen the master cylinder linkage or open the bleeders. if the brakes unlock you have identified the problem. They also need to keep in mind rebuilding a master cylinder in no way will help the failure of a faling internal compensator port. Good Luck
Hot brake fluid most usually causes weaker brake response ( IE spongy brakes not holding good) If your master cylinder is the problem it will get worse, the hotter fluid is not helping but is not the cause it is an affect.
rebuilt or new doesnt necessarily mean it works only that no one else has used it yet
Well, in further investigation, I discovered the shop is manned by morons who aren’t that good at their jobs. The shop just wrote it off and had me pick it up. Knowing the rear brakes were an issue I just rode back roads as much as possible and got it home using only front brakes. I decided to mess with it some figuring I couldn’t mess it up too much more.
I then inspected the fill thing and it was empty. I then got my can of 3-4 and filled it and pumped the brake. Fluid immediately puddled behind right wheel. I checked it and the line wasn’t tightened. I proceed to tighten then went to the left brake to bleed it. The bleeder was rounded and with the limited space without lifting it couldn’t get it to break it loose. Now I have decided that when I get my garage open a little to pull it in, jack and remove wheels and replace bleeder. I also am telling all my friends to avoid that shop.
[QUOTE=Kook;778492]Well, in further investigation, I discovered the shop is manned by morons who aren’t that good at their jobs. The shop just wrote it off and had me pick it up. Knowing the rear brakes were an issue I just rode back roads as much as possible and got it home using only front brakes. I decided to mess with it some figuring I couldn’t mess it up too much more.
I then inspected the fill thing and it was empty. I then got my can of 3-4 and filled it and pumped the brake. Fluid immediately puddled behind right wheel. I checked it and the line wasn’t tightened. I proceed to tighten then went to the left brake to bleed it. The bleeder was rounded and with the limited space without lifting it couldn’t get it to break it loose. Now I have decided that when I get my garage open a little to pull it in, jack and remove wheels and replace bleeder. I also am telling all my friends to avoid that shop.[/QUOTE]
In your OP you mention a DNA rear ..... and wheel cylinders.
The DNA rear usually comes with disc brakes, not drum brakes.
Can you post a picture of the rear ?
I am in agreement with Jack on the slow release of the brake and it sounds like improper pedal play.
Clarify the drum or disc brake please.
They are disc brakes.
for all you more experienced people is there a special bleeder or are they the same?
[QUOTE=Kook;778522]They are disc brakes.
for all you more experienced people is there a special bleeder or are they the same?[/QUOTE]
Most bleeder screws are metric thread now. Best off to remove the old one and take it with to match up the threads, you say it is rounded off. I bet the last shop did this. Try a vice grip, if it does not start to turn, slip a larger diameter socket over the bleeder and give it a whack with a hammer. ( the socket should be held firmly against the caliper where the bleeder sits) This usually works to loosen stubborn bleeders
[QUOTE=stacebg;778377]rebuilt or new doesnt necessarily mean it works only that no one else has used it yet[/QUOTE]
They said they have tried 3 but at this point what they said don’t mean much to me. Am going to replace the bleeder and bleed them out. Then go from there. It supposedly was bench tested and worked!