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[QUOTE=LarryA;426244]fowler.. 2 factors that I see....#1 is pinion snout twisting up under acceleration.#2 is just hitting a bump ie raising the whole rear end straight up with no twist... leafs with a snubber for the snout will work just fine.....the 4 link takes care of the wrap up by virtue of it's design also. either way, the mounting should be adjustable to fine tune. anyhow, this thinking and figuring was the favorite part of my build....I did it leaning back in my chair with my feet up!! larry[/QUOTE]
Yep I like researching all the different aspects of it and learning what I can.
I have been in IT working with computers for 25 years now and I hate them but I have to admit they make researching a lot easier
Still most likely go with Coil Overs and a 4 link. I just like the looks of the leafs.
Was looking at it last night making sure I have it ready to pull the engine this Saturday
I think I will go ahead and connect the new front frame into the old rear frame [U]for now[/U] but will eventually build the rear frame also. (when I switch to coil overs)
I took the pinion angle on the rear last night. It is 7 degrees (nose up) I wanted to have the Trany level, If I do that I have to move the nose down at least 8 degrees. But I do not want to do that until I get most of the weight on the vehicle
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reply to thread
I learned to look ahead (the hard way) when making weld tacks. always somewhere you could cut it out with a 4in. cutoff wheel then get in with a bar chisel or hammer to break the opposite tack. it didn't stop the mistakes, but it made it easier to start over! sounds like your plan is coming together, will enjoy keeping up with this build. larry
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Like the build so far. May I suggest the possibility of air ride with the four link.
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[QUOTE=rrunner;428538]Like the build so far. May I suggest the possibility of air ride with the four link.[/QUOTE]
I have looked at Air ride systems on a number of different vehicles, Mainly Hot Rods, T-buckets, trucks and such
Great system BUT from what I have read the Air Ride setup cost a lot more, more difficult to setup, and some say not as dependable as the coil over systems
Now please understand I am just going by what I have been reading. I have no experience with this myself. I read everything I can, hear all the different points of views and then come up with what I will do
In this case the fact that Coil Overs are is cheaper and easier for my first time at this, took priority.
I like the looks of the leaf springs the most but I do not think I will get the ride i want from them,
I have read about different modifications to them and even leaf springs from other vehicles. But I always seem to go back to Coil Overs
As I read and learn more I may change my mind on this and other things. Just have to see how it flows
Pulling the engine off the frame tomorrow
Choping the rear off the frame also
Got to do some minor work on the Heathen Trike also [URL]http://www.3fowlers.com/[/URL]
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got the engine and trany off the frame and sitting on the cradle
I want the engine low
I have 6 inches of clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to the ground.
I can get another inch by modifying the oil pickup tube and oil pan
I am also planning to have a skid plate
For now I have it sitting level. I will adjust that if needed
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Just tack welded in right now
need to narrow the front some
Took a measurement from center of each back wheel to the front of my front frame and got the same length, so I think I have it straight
I plan to weld in more bracing once I get it how I want it
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42965[/ATTACH]
As I was cleaning the frame I noticed the 2 back frame rails are different.
Need to figure out what I will do with that
1 goes straight then down the other goes down then straight
[ATTACH=CONFIG]42966[/ATTACH]
I am going to try and keep the leaf springs so I cut 2 leafs off each side . It feels a lot better now.
Need to reband them
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This weekend I am going to narrow the front end by angling the front frame rails in more
I have the frame leveled now both front to back and side to side
I need to ensure I bring both sides in toward the center the exact same amount and that everything is centered
The red lines is what I measured from before
I am thinking of taking a measurement from both the Red lines and the Blue lines this time to get a more accurate measurement this time
Anyone have any better (more accurate) way for me to do this without spending any additional money?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]43189[/ATTACH]
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reply to thread
I usually just use a chalk line pulled tight on the floor and drop plumb bobs to that centerline.....then the string on the plumb bob will transfer the line up from the floor to your frame.....then move the frame until it is centered on the centerline. do each end of the frame....sometimes when the center of the frame is found I file a small groove for the string for future measurements. hope this makes sense to you....larry
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I have also used the 3'leg, 4'leg and 5' hypotenuse to construct a line perpendicular to the center line for aligning the rear axle to the c/l. I lay out the 4' along the c/l...then measure out 3' to right or left..then use the 5' to swing the 3' leg until the 5'leg is on the end of the 4' mark... then the 3' leg will be at 90 deg to the c/l. do the same for the other side. hope this makes sense also.....larry
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[QUOTE=Fowler;436254]This weekend I am going to narrow the front end by angling the front frame rails in more
I have the frame leveled now both front to back and side to side
I need to ensure I bring both sides in toward the center the exact same amount and that everything is centered
The red lines is what I measured from before
I am thinking of taking a measurement from both the Red lines and the Blue lines this time to get a more accurate measurement this time
Anyone have any better (more accurate) way for me to do this without spending any additional money?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]43189[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
i think what you have there is on the right track or at least a good track...
probably in your plan, but take off the wheels for a more accurate measure.. and i would measure crisscross with the blue lines...in other words right rear to left front and left rear to right front rather than using the center of the rear